Fade Out Label / The Blue Streak / PART V Feature

Spotlight: The Blue Streak

Fade Out Label: Handcrafted Work by Upcycling Materials and Innovative Designs

Gender division in fashion is more a factor of culture and aesthetics than one of practicality, and the oversized fit is very contemporary — in fact comfortable, cool with the possibility to use elastane-free fabrics. That’s the USP of Andrea Bonfini’s Fade Out Label which is also about patchwork, cuts, handcrafted quality and of course intensive work.

Subir Ghosh

27 November 2024

5 minutes

Long Story, Cut Short

The sight of over-production of garments served as the designer’s clarion call.
The idea is to create articles that can be repeated, similar to the original but always different.
Fade Out Label has a waiting list: the garments are sewn only on order, and there is no stock.

freedom Fade Out Label's unisex clothing is created for any kind of body. Fade Out Label

An atelier on the Herzbergstrasse in Berlin makes stuff that would pique the interest of both buyers and activists like. The products are unisex and handcrafted, and are produced as oversized cuts in deconstructed vintage denim and upcycled natural fabrics. In terms of fashion those are funky, and in terms of sustainability those are as trendy as anything can get. The brand is Fade Out Label.

It’s not a spanking new brand. In fact, its roots were struck over a decade ago—not here in Berlin, but in Rome. Around 2013 Nicola Gomiero and Andrea Bonfini were making patchwork t-shirts out of recycled denim for themselves in Rome, where they first came to know of each other.

They later met again in the German capital and had the idea of “creating garments with a clean and essential taste.” In early 2015, they teamed up to playfully create something unexpected and new.

Recollects Andrea: “People loved the concept, and so we decided to build up a collection of total looks made of denim patchwork and to start a brand: Fade Out Label.” The name came from something no one had thought of. As they would tear apart all the old pairs of jeans, they would find tags specifying the strangest of washings. ‘Fade Out’ was one of them. “We liked that it indicates something that changes with time and so in a natural way it became the name of our brand.” Nicola happened to exit the brand sometime later.

Andrea’s own background is not something that you can guess that easily. He is—of course—Italian, and had studied painting at the Academy of Fine Arts in Rome. “I used to work as a painter and costume designer for theatre and the performing arts during my studies and then I got hired at Miss Sixty's company, where I worked for six years as a fashion designer and graphic designer.”

It was here that Andrea’s journey with denim kicked off. “During this experience I learned a lot about denim, and I also had the opportunity to see how much textile materials and garments were accumulating in the warehouses.” The sight of this over-production of garments went on to serve as his clarion call. “The world is saturated with products and does not need more. Therefore, why not reuse existing material?” This was the question Andrea asked himself. The rest is history.

The brand and its work

Why unisex and why the oversized cuts? How has this worked out so far?

Reveals Andrea: “Our unisex clothing is created for any kind of body. I want to offer the freedom of choice. There are sexual differences in the human body that do not make a huge difference to the clothes.” The clothes are the wrappers that cover the body. He continues: “Gender division in fashion is more a factor of culture and aesthetics than one of practicality.

“I never believed in gender boundaries, and I have never made a distinction in wearing clothes considered to be for women or men. Many young clothing brands use the same unisex approach, and like Fade Out Label, they photograph clothing worn by boys and girls. I mean, if you’re a man and you like wearing a skirt… why shouldn’t you?”

On the oversized cut, he contends: “I consider the oversized fit very contemporary. I find it comfortable, cool and it gives you the possibility to use elastane-free fabrics. Yes, I think this will remain the Fade Out Label USP.”

It’s not about the cuts alone; handcrafted quality clothing needs work. Intensive work.

“Having one’s own artisanal brand requires much effort and total commitment at every level: be it the silhouette, the development of patterns, the research and preparation of materials, the sewing and the creation of garments, or even every aspect of the communication and promotion.” Each of these require and deserve attention and energy. All this happens in Andrea’s atelier.

The idea is to create articles that can be repeated, similar to the original but always different. “By working with upcycled materials it is not possible to create two identical pieces, because it is impossible to create the same patchwork design and have the same chromatic shades.” The unique but repeatable pieces are very well appreciated by customers and buyers.

This is borne out by the fact that Fade Out Label has a waiting list: the garments are sewn only on order, and there is no stock (this gives our customers the possibility to ask us for tailor-made or customised garments on request).”

The problem for the vertical growth of such an artisanal brand could be the production of the garments. After all, making a handcrafted and upcycled garment with the patchwork method requires many hours of work. And, for this reason Andrea choses quality over quantity.

Andrea Bonfini

Owner / Arti Director

Fade Out Label

Having one’s own artisanal brand requires much effort and total commitment at every level: be it the silhouette, the development of patterns, the research and preparation of materials, the sewing and the creation of garments, or even every aspect of the communication and promotion.

The idea is to create articles that can be repeated, similar to the original but always different. “By working with upcycled materials it is not possible to create two identical pieces, because it is impossible to create the same patchwork design and have the same chromatic shades."

chromatic shades The idea is to create articles that can be repeated, similar to the original but always different. “By working with upcycled materials it is not possible to create two identical pieces, because it is impossible to create the same patchwork design and have the same chromatic shades." Fade Out Label

Making it work

So, how does the supply chain work in Andrea’s line of work? How easy or tough will it be to scale it up – from the sourcing of natural materials, worn-out garments, deadstock, blankets, curtains, etc?

Andrea calls himself a “one show man” in this business. “I buy vintage jeans and materials from charity shops, flea markets, but also via donations which we unpick thoroughly in every part, wash, sanitise and iron. I then divide and match them as per the colour, shade and fading. Then, following the type of garment or the client's preferences, I cut and match the single pieces and then sew and overlock them into a mosaic to match the pattern. This whole process takes place in my studio where I also sew and finish the garments.”

So far, he hasn’t had any problems with getting the material, as used or dead-stock jeans are a very common and easy-to-find item of clothing.

There should not be a dearth of raw materials in a world that—ostensibly at least—is trying hard to reuse materials that are discarded, but ought not to head for landfills. But, what about the brand itself?

Says Andrea: “There will be new capsule collections, characterised by the iconic Fade Out Label's patchwork denim, and new upcycling materials, remaining consistent with my philosophy of a handcrafted slow-fashion and completely handmade denim brand in my atelier.”

He also sees himself collaborating more with schools and students (to whom I have been offering lessons on sustainable fashion and similar topics for years) and the artistic environment (for which I have been exhibiting artworks and installations made of fabric or costumes for performing art for years)

Other than that, “I believe in chance (or karma, if you prefer). As typically for me, I'll try to attract me new meetings and cool opportunities floating in the air. Picasso said: ‘I don't seek, I find’.”