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It ain't fashion, if it ain't sustainable
texfash.com
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Fibre Innovation / Kelheim Fibres

26 June 2023

8 minutes
Kelheim Fibres sees two paths to make hygiene products more sustainable. First, by producing conventional single-use products using biobased materials instead of synthetics, thus making them biodegradable. Second, by replacing single-use products with reusable alternatives, ideally also based on biodegradable materials.

We All Need to Provide Facts and Figures that Underpin LCA and Recycling Processes

A leading manufacturer of specialty viscose fibres, Kelheim Fibres GmbH, has a portfolio of functional biodegradable viscose fibres for unique products. Marina Crnoja-Cosic, Director – New Business Development (Marketing & Communication) talks to texfash.com about the ongoing innovation, the route taken on sustainability and how the market for viscose is shaping up.

By
  • Richa Bansal
Interview
Exclusive
Cotton Crisis / Probing Deep

13 June 2023

7 minutes
 It is disappointing that after all these years a lot of companies did not make any or little progress, and still do not see the urgency of how important it is to source sustainable cotton. There is still so much fear around transparency of where the cotton comes from, the volume and certifications used. It shows that the gap between frontrunners and laggards is getting bigger.

‘Certified’ Cotton Not Always ‘Sustainable’ Cotton; Brands & Retailers Must Raise Transparency Bar

It is disappointing to see that a lot of companies still do not see the urgency of how important it is to source sustainable cotton. There is still so much fear around transparency of where the cotton comes from, the volume and certifications used. The just-released 2023 Cotton Ranking report by Solidaridad Network and Pesticide Action Network UK (PAN UK) shows that the gap between frontrunners and laggards is getting bigger.

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Interview
Cotton Crisis / 2023 Rankings

13 June 2023

4 minutes
This is not the first time that Solidaridad and PAN UK have released cotton rankings. Brands and retailers, by virtue of these Rankings, knew where they stood as far as cotton was concerned, and so did the world. They had all the time to make course corrections. What is astounding, therefore, is that in spite of all the resources at their disposal—financial, material and logistical—and all that chest-thumping and deafening rhetoric, brands still cut a sorry figure.

Almost 90% of Top Retailers and Brands Still Unsustainable, Not Transparent on Cotton

Jargon-laden and flowery sustainability reports by a majority of top brands and retailers would come across as a heap of gobbledygook if their actual performance is taken into account. Well, certainly for the cotton sector. As many as 89% are still non-transparent, unsustainable and show little progress towards improving labour conditions, says the 2023 Cotton Ranking just published by Solidaridad Europe and the Pesticide Action Network UK (PAN UK).

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Report
Toxic Fashion / PFAS Cover-Up

10 June 2023

5 minutes
The DuPont Washington Works plant which was responsible for air and water contamination in Parkersburg, West Virginia, US.

Enemies of the People: DuPont and 3M Knew of PFAS Dangers, But Covered It up for 40+ Years

A painstaking, exhaustive analysis of documents by University of California (UC) researchers has revealed that the chemicals industry used all nefarious tactics in the playbook to delay public awareness of PFAS toxicity and, in turn, delay regulations governing their use.

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Commentary
The Observer
Deforestation / Viscose

2 June 2023

4 minutes
Excavators beside a canal cutting through recently deforested peatland inside a PT. Riau Andalan Pulp & Paper (PT RAPP) pulpwood concession on Pulau Pedang, Bengkalis Regency, Riau Province. PT RAPP is a subsidiary of APRIL, the pulp & paper division of the RGE Group.

Deforestation Scam: Viscose Producer's Denials Insufficient to Rebut Evidence, Say 5 Groups

Even as Indonesia’s Royal Golden Eagle Group (RGE) with its four subsidiaries flatly denies all allegations made in the recently released Pulping Borneo report, the publishers of the investigative study have dismissed the denials as “insufficient.” A texfash.com report.

By
  • Special Correspondent
Report
Climate Crisis / Carbon Colonialism

1 June 2023

7 minutes
Thick black smoke is seen coming out from a chimney of a garment factory in the outskirts of Phnom Penh, Cambodia. An investigation by the Unearthed team of Greenpeace and Daily Mail last year unravelled a scandal in Cambodia wherein off-cuts from clothing factories that supply leading western brands were being used to fuel brick-kilns—exposing bonded workers to toxic fumes. The investigation took off from the 'Hot Trends' study of Laurie Parsons.

Joining the Dots: Sustainability Strategy Reflects the Colonial Logic of the Global Economy

Dr Laurie Parsons is Senior Lecturer in Human Geography at Royal Holloway, University of London. His new book Carbon Colonialism explores the murky practices of outsourcing a country's environmental impact, where emissions and waste are exported from rich countries to poorer ones; a world in which corporations and countries are allowed to maintain a clean, green image while landfills in the world's poorest countries continue to expand, and droughts and floods intensify under the auspices of globalisation, deregulation and economic growth. Parsons in conversation with texfash.com.

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Interview
Exclusive
Denim PV Berlin / Perspectives / III

31 May 2023

5 minutes
Berto's 'Touch of Velvet' package has fabrics flocked with a special viscose that combined with denim gives a unique effect. It also offers a special capsule of fabrics called 'Reactive Indigo', which does not bleach and is ideal for accessories and/or tailored garments.

Gnutti: Either You're 100% Sustainable or You're Not; Berto: Don’t Want to Over-Produce

A trade event is as much about products and services as it is about exhibitors, visitors and communities. With sustainability at the heart of it, the Berlin edition of Denim Première Vision gets under way today. texfash.com speaks to two exhibitors about what they would be doing here, and of course the backdrop to their presence.

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Interview
Wireframe: The Blue Horizon
Denim PV Berlin / Circular Way / II

30 May 2023

4 minutes
To meet the requirements of both the EU waste hierarchy and the eco-design directive, Isko has developed CTRL+Z, a new technology that enables the production of superior fabrics that last longer using exclusively recycled fibres and regenerated viscose, aligning with both Textile Exchange and Canopy preferred fibres list.

Isko’s Circular Way: Not Giving to Industry Pressure to Have a New Product Every Season

It's one of the very few companies in the world that are on track on their circularity path. Denim leader Isko plans to produce 85% of its entire fabric production with recycled materials by 2023. It's more or less there. Isko would be present at Denim Première Vision - Berlin later this week. Baris Ozden, Product Development Manager and Daniel Merino, Project Manager (Circularity) talk about trends and recent events.

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Interview
Wireframe: The Blue Horizon
Denim PV Berlin / Top Voice / I

29 May 2023

5 minutes
Usually trends remain for several seasons, and it will continue to be like that. The aesthetic—sometimes, and apparently—could evolve faster, but fashion is part of our cultural and social evolution too, and progress is surely slower.

Denim Challenge: Translating Most Creative Trends into More Eco-responsible Approach

Since 2018, Denim Première Vision has been touring Europe’s capitals. Come Wednesday--31 May, the denim community will converge on Arena Berlin. A key person making all this happen is Lorenza Martello, Denim Product Manager at Denim Première Vision. Martello talks fabrics, trends and innovations with texfash.com.

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Interview
Wireframe: The Blue Horizon
Retail Watch / Reliance-Shein

23 May 2023

4 minutes
Random images from Shein India's Instagram account. The online fast fashion retailer was immensely popular among Indian women, especially youngsters, for its stylish wears.

Polyester Giant Reliance Sets Stage for Shein's Backdoor Return to India

India’s retail and ecommerce sectors are abuzz with what’s going to be the impact of the Reliance-Shein combine on the overall landscape, and how it is eventually going to play out. A texfash.com analysis.

By
  • Subir Ghosh
Analysis
The Observer

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About texfash
  • The texfash.com project is a cutting-edge digital publication that explores the global textiles-apparel-fashion industry, straddling a line between journalistic reportage and academic rigour.
  • With sustainability as its underlying watchword, the texfash.com approach is incisive, fact-based and research-driven journalism that is beholden only to the planet and its people.
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