Vietnamese manufacturer, aided by buyer, bucked the pandemic distress

Vietnamese manufacturer Fashion Enterprise could do well during the COVID-19 pandemic—its main buyer Cue not only did not cancel orders, but even paid deposits in advance. Chief Executive Officer Rodney Thanh tells the story of a company where 98% of the workers returned after lockdown.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Our growth has been surprisingly high with a 100% increase every six months, even during COVID-19 in 2020 and 2021.
  • We kept the knitting machines going throughout lockdown—they only require 5–6 staff to manage.
  • We should develop our own unique business model and I believe that would be somewhere between China and India—quality and technology focus, not mass volume.
In 2019, Fashion Enterprise built their brand new 6,500 sq m factory in Ho Chi Minh City which is equipped with state-of-the-art machinery, combining fully fashioned knitting and cut and sew production. This allows them to develop and produce mixed media fashion faster with a higher finish quality.
Quality Production In 2019, Fashion Enterprise built their brand new 6,500 sq m factory in Ho Chi Minh City which is equipped with state-of-the-art machinery, combining fully fashioned knitting and cut and sew production. This allows them to develop and produce mixed media fashion faster with a higher finish quality. Fashion Enterprise

Fashion Enterprise is a Vietnam-based manufacturer specialising in the production of raw and dyed yarn, knitted and woven/denim fabrics and garments. Their teams in Vietnam and China collaborate with buyers and brands on product design through to sampling and final bulk shipment. Many of their very first clients continue to partner with them today and their commitment to them, as well as their experience and knowledge of the Australian fashion industry, make them a partner of choice among top retailers and fashion brands. In 2019, Fashion Enterprise built their brand new 6,500 sq m factory in Ho Chi Minh City which is equipped with state-of-the-art machinery, combining fully fashioned knitting and cut and sew production. This allows them to develop and produce mixed media fashion faster with a higher finish quality.

From raw and dyed yarns to knitted fabrics and woven fabrics, denim and garments, how do you ensure sustainability at every step of the way? How do Good Earth Cotton and FibreTrace fit into the scheme of things?
Fashion Enterprise only works with partner factories that follow sustainable and certified models. Our spinning, dyeing, woven, knit and denim partner factories are all Oeko-Tex certified. To now be able to include verified carbon positive Good Earth Cotton and the FibreTrace pigment into our supply chain ensures it cannot be contaminated or outsourced and adds sustainable value to our process and final product.

Even as the pandemic continues to blow hot and cold, the other major challenge that has come up is the Russia-Ukraine war. How is that impacting business, sourcing, supply chain?
Fashion Enterprise still relies on some raw materials and trims from China; so, the biggest impact for us has been around the logistics since the lockdown of the region. The price of raw materials has also increased which creates a knock-on effect throughout the supply chain. Fashion Enterprise is lucky to only work with mid to high end brands that enable us to absorb the extra costs. I think the big volume, mass market factories will find it much harder to sustain the increased costs.

Trade wars have been ongoing. Which key FTAs work well for Vietnam and what more are you looking for?
Since the sanctions imposed on China have been under way, Fashion Enterprise has used its position to impress upon customers, and our wider stakeholders, the benefits of manufacturing in Vietnam. As of June, Vietnam has officially joined 13 new FTAs and by signing these bilateral and multilateral agreements, it has enabled Vietnamese enterprises to expand and gain easier access to regional and global markets. The majority of the brands that we support are based in Australia; so, FTAs such as the AANZFTA, CPTPP and RCEP all contribute to the smooth flow of goods across boundaries.

How has Vietnam fared after/during the pandemic? What has been the pandemic story of Fashion Enterprise? How did you handle cancelledorders and worker welfare? Which are the best practices that you follow with respect to labour?
Fashion Enterprise actually did well during the COVID-19 pandemic. The main buyer, Cue, was really the key to keeping the business running. They worked closely with me to find a way that would be beneficial for us both. Like other fashion brands, Cue had to deal with the 4–5-month lockdown in Australia followed by the 3-month lockdown in Vietnam. Regardless of this, they did not cancel any orders. Instead, they just pushed out the delivery shipment until borders opened up again. Cue also revised the payment terms and paid a 30% deposit on all purchase orders with the balance on the shipping date. This arrangement gave Fashion Enterprise the cashflow to be able to continue paying workers a reduced rate during the lockdown. This in turn ensured 98% of the workers loyally returned to work when lockdown was over. When indeed we were able to reopen operations in August 2021, we had many new people coming to look for work at Fashion Enterprise as they could see we looked after our workers.

The local market here doesn’t necessarily have to work just on large inexpensive volume products—they can instead adjust their focus, and engage brands that emphasize the importance of good design and high quality materials.

Rodney Thanh
Chief Executive Officer
Fashion Enterprise
Rodney Thanh

How has your growth been in the last two years and what are the projections for the next year? Which key brands do you manufacture for? What percentage of your production also goes out to the domestic market?
Our growth has been surprisingly high with a 100% increase every six months, even during COVID-19 in 2020 and 2021. We did of course have months when most production had to stop, but the buyers didn’t—they continued with development, and started sampling and on-boarding as soon as the lockdown was over. Another factor that helped Fashion Enterprise was that we were able to maintain some production in our factory. We kept the knitting machines going throughout lockdown—they only require 5–6 staff to manage. So, some staff elected to stay in the factory and keep production going.

We currently have no domestic production—all our orders are 100% exports. Our key brands for 2022 are: Cue; Veronika Maine; Saba; Sportscraft; Kookai; Scanlan And Theodore; Reiss; Rm William; Country Road.

Our future targets for 2022–23 will be to focus on sustainable fibres marked with FibreTrace technology. GEC will be the main focus for growth, but we also hope to apply the FibreTrace pigment to non-GEC Australian cotton. As Fashion Enterprise also works with a lot of suiting fabrics, we are currently arranging an Australian merino wool FibreTrace test pilot later this year, if successful we will be able to expand the programme to cover more volume.

What according to you may be counted as strengths of the textiles industry in Vietnam? Where does it fall short and how can that be made up for? What help does the textile-apparel industry receive from the government, more so during these tough times?
The textiles industry in Vietnam is growing at considerable pace. In my experience, the market is open to anyone who possesses: a good business idea; the supporting finance to back it; and a robust and solid business plan. With these in place, success really is attainable.

However, the legal requirements can be very complicated and at times daunting. So, it is essential to have a team who can navigate the rules and paperwork that do not always seem to promote business growth. For my business, I do not receive any help or assistance from the government, but would be keen to see how they can support growth of a forward thinking manufacturer such as Fashion Enterprise.

Please share the Fashion Enterprise story. What has been the key catalyst to your growth? Who are your key competitors and what steps do you take to stay ahead not just from within but also competitor countries like Bangladesh, India, etc.
I was born in Vietnam, and so I have a very personal attachment to the country, and to its future success. The first six years of my life were spent in Saigon. So, one of my goals in business has always been not just to turn a profit, but to introduce knowledgeable and innovative business models into the local industry. I hope I can show my employees a different way of working and, in doing so, broaden their views of the possibilities within the world of fashion. The local market here doesn’t necessarily have to work just on large inexpensive volume products—they can instead adjust their focus, and engage brands that emphasize the importance of good design and high quality materials.

It has always been an ambition of Fashion Enterprise to become a brand whose lead other people follow, and in doing so helps us contribute to ensuring Vietnam’s top-ranking place as a country able to produce very high-quality garments. Now that we have established this exciting partnership with FibreTrace and GEC, our ambitions are to shoot even higher, and to help Vietnam become the largest producer of sustainable, traceable textiles in the world. It will be no small feat, but the window of opportunity is open for us to grasp. I am personally committed to securing the funding required to achieve these outcomes, and to leading the dynamic team that Fashion Enterprise is fortunate enough to have in place to do that.

I do not think Vietnam should try to compete with India or any other country. We should develop our own unique business model and I believe that would be somewhere between China and India—quality and technology focus, not mass volume. India and Bangladesh are not competition for Fashion Enterprise, as we have different business models and customers. In the future I hope more local businesses will follow the Fashion Enterprise business model and help expand the mid to high end manufacturing industry in Vietnam.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 25 March 2022
  • Last modified: 25 March 2022