Sustainable Fibre Sourcing Faces Systemic Challenges, Particularly in Developing World

Soorty Enterprises' reverse vertical integration effort sources responsibly grown fibre and improves farmer incomes in Pakistan's most impoverished areas. Eda Dikmen, Senior Marketing & Communications Manager and Mobeen Chughtai, Head of Corporate Communications & Corporate Social Responsibility, talk about fibres, regenerative agriculture and the climate crisis. This is the second of a 2-part interview.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • When we talk about sustainability—whether it’s about fibre composition, regenerative agriculture, or renewable energy—we’re really talking about survival, resilience, and the moral imperative to act decisively.
  • Forward-thinking brands and suppliers must recognise that paying a premium for sustainable practices today is an investment in their own survival tomorrow
  • Sustainable fibre sourcing faces systemic challenges, particularly in resource-constrained environments like the developing world.
The Soorty denim journey begins with sourcing cotton. The feel, look, and performance of the jeans you’re wearing today, along with their durability and overall impact, all hinge on responsible procurement. Factors such as where and how the cotton is grown, its water and carbon footprint, and fibre strength are elements that shape the fabric.
The journey The Soorty denim journey begins with sourcing cotton. The feel, look, and performance of the jeans you’re wearing today, along with their durability and overall impact, all hinge on responsible procurement. Factors such as where and how the cotton is grown, its water and carbon footprint, and fibre strength are elements that shape the fabric. Soorty

Then, there's the issue of fibres. What is the fibre composition right now, and what are you doing to change it? What is the intake of regenerative, recycled, responsible fibres right now? What kind of bearing do these have on price? One of the reasons why "sustainable" fibres have not made much dent is because of the price issue. Brands do not want to pay more. Comments, please.
As a globally leading responsible denim producer-at-scale, we take pride in our vertically integrated setup that allows us to oversee every aspect of denim production, from fibres to finished garments. Our fibre strategy is rooted in versatility and purpose-driven design. We operate one of the world’s most adaptable and versatile spinning mills, efficiently handling around 20 different fibre types simultaneously, enabling us to combine innovation with purpose and targeted functionality starting from fibre selection all the way to the finished garments reaching retail.

Our journey begins with sourcing cotton. The feel, look, and performance of the jeans you’re wearing today, along with their durability and overall impact, all hinge on responsible procurement. Factors such as where and how the cotton is grown, its water and carbon footprint, and fibre strength are elements that shape the fabric.

In an age where responsibly sourced, reliable cotton is essential, the Soorty Sustainable Cotton Research Hub serves as a model of sustainable agriculture for us and drives our expertise in working with cotton. Envisioned as a pilot farm, R&D hub, and educational centre, the hub pioneers sustainable cotton farming, leveraging advanced technologies and responsible practices to revolutionise industry standards.

We manage multiple initiatives around cotton, and the Soorty Organic Cotton Initiative (SOCI) is our first. Established in 2021 in collaboration with WWF-Pakistan, the Department of Agriculture Extension, and supported by the Laudes Foundation, its mission is to introduce organic farming practices and enhance the quality of life for farmers in Pakistan’s Balochistan region. Our organic cotton intake doubled last year, reaching nearly 10 metric tonnes, and we aim to exceed this as 2024 concludes. Where demand exceeds current production, we supplement with verified purchases.

Following our success with SOCI, we continued engaging with farmers with SRI - Soorty Regenagri Initiative. We know excessive reliance on chemical inputs and intensive tillage has resulted in the deterioration of ecosystems. This not only harms the soil health but also jeopardises the wellbeing and prosperity of communities. Our goal is to reduce chemical exposure, improve soil health, conserve biodiversity, enhance climate resilience and promote wellbeing. In terms of regenerative cotton, we’re seeing significant growth: last year was the fresh beginning, we had low crops and used 250 metric tonnes, and this year we’re close to six times that amount, with over half of it now locally sourced as our own regenerative crops come to maturity. 

Of course, it’s not just about producing something new, we also address the critical issue of repurposing waste. SecondLife is our recycled cotton brand that transforms worn-out garments, rejects, production defects, and true waste into new, sustainable denim pieces. Denim-to-denim recycling helps reduce global textile waste while maintaining the high-quality, durable fibres required for our new production, conserving resources and promoting a circular economy. Our post-consumer and post-industrial waste fibre parameters are setting industry benchmarks, and the demand reached over 5,000 MT last year. We expect a similar figure in 2024.

Beyond our self-produced raw materials, we also source responsible, natural fibres such as linen or hemp while also partnering with reputable, verified industry leaders like Lenzing, Lycra, and Circ to incorporate reliable, innovative manmade fibres into our production matrix. Procuring the right materials, designing high-quality products, and ensuring traceability are our core goals. Our partnership with Haelixa further strengthens this, enabling full production transparency. By embedding a unique DNA marker into each product, we enable tracking and verification throughout its lifecycle. With a quick scan of the product tags, consumers can verify their garments and access detailed information about their denim’s journey.

While price ultimately remains a consideration, we are dedicated to supporting our brand partners in achieving both integrity and performance, allowing them to make informed decisions. Our mission is to be the best possible partner in helping brands reach their ambitious goals.

Sustainable fibre sourcing faces systemic challenges, particularly in resource-constrained environments like the developing world. Scaling up regenerative practices requires sustained investment, policy support, and broader stakeholder collaboration. Yet, the ecosystem for sustainable agriculture is still in its infancy in Pakistan.

Eda Dikmen
Senior Marketing & Communications Manager
Soorty Enterprises
Eda Dikmen
As a globally leading responsible denim producer-at-scale, Soorty takes pride in its vertically integrated setup that allows it to oversee every aspect of denim production, from fibres to finished garments.
responsible denim producer-at-scale As a globally leading responsible denim producer-at-scale, Soorty takes pride in its vertically integrated setup that allows it to oversee every aspect of denim production, from fibres to finished garments. Soorty

That brings me to the Soorty Regenagri Initiative. It's been some six months since the initiative was announced. How has the project taken off? What are the target numbers that you are looking at? A regenerative project by its very nature takes some time to deliver. But you would have a broader picture in mind. Could you please elaborate.
The Soorty Regenagri Initiative has made commendable progress, engaging 1,049 small-scale farmers across 5,000 acres in Bahawalpur, South Punjab. These farmers have begun implementing regenerative agricultural practices such as minimal soil disturbance, crop diversity, soil cover, and livestock integration. Adoption rates have been promising: 43% of farmers are incorporating crop residues, 64% have adopted laser land levelling, and 36% have started tree planting already.

Our immediate vision is to produce 1,225 metric tonnes of high-quality Regenagri-certified cotton lint by year-end, with certification overseen by Control Union. A key feature of the initiative is its focus on traceability, where each bale is tagged with a QR code to track its journey from farm to factory, ensuring transparency across the supply chain.

We recognise that regenerative agriculture takes time to show its full potential—improved soil health, enhanced biodiversity, and increased crop resilience are long-term outcomes. However, our immediate goals focus on building a robust foundation: training farmers, gathering baseline soil data, and fostering early wins in yield improvements through efficient nutrient management and integrated pest management.

Despite these strides, sustainable fibre sourcing faces systemic challenges, particularly in resource-constrained environments like the developing world. Scaling up regenerative practices requires sustained investment, policy support, and broader stakeholder collaboration. Yet, the ecosystem for sustainable agriculture is still in its infancy in Pakistan. We hope that our efforts prove pivotal to transforming the cotton value chain into a more sustainable and resilient system, aligning with our overarching commitment to Net Zero goals.

Mobeen Chughtai
Mobeen Chughtai
Head, Corporate Communications & Corporate Social Responsibility
Soorty Enterprises

We recognise that regenerative agriculture takes time to show its full potential—improved soil health, enhanced biodiversity, and increased crop resilience are long-term outcomes. However, our immediate goals focus on building a robust foundation: training farmers, gathering baseline soil data, and fostering early wins in yield improvements through efficient nutrient management and integrated pest management.

And yes, how scary does the climate crisis look to you (in light of all the above questions/projects etc). It's not just about reducing emissions, etc, but also about taking climate risks into account while making both short-term and long-term plans. Comments, please.
The climate crisis is, without question, the defining challenge of our time. It’s not just a distant threat; it’s here, now, reshaping the way we live and work, especially in vulnerable regions like ours. Whether the recent flash floods in Spain or the recurrent floods in Pakistan – the human toll has to be averted. When we talk about sustainability—whether it’s about fibre composition, regenerative agriculture, or renewable energy—we’re really talking about survival, resilience, and the moral imperative to act decisively.

A Dual Challenge: Mitigation and Adaptation: Reducing emissions is crucial; every fraction of a degree we prevent in global temperature rise makes a tangible difference. Equally vital, however, is our capacity to adapt to the irreversible changes already underway. Floods, heatwaves, water scarcity, and erratic weather patterns are no longer hypothetical—they are present realities, impacting communities and industries worldwide, including ours. Our ongoing efforts to ensure that global emissions control frameworks acknowledge and reflect the unique challenges of the developing world stem from a deep commitment to the overall success of climate action.

Climate Risks in Business Decisions: For a business like ours, climate risk must be factored into every decision. It's not just about meeting targets like those under the Science-Based Targets initiative; it’s about future-proofing our supply chains, our workforce, and the communities we touch. Take cotton, for example—a crop deeply sensitive to climate variability. By investing in regenerative and organic practices, we’re not only reducing emissions but also building resilience against soil degradation and water scarcity, ensuring a stable supply for the long term.

The Economic Argument: The price issue often comes up when discussing sustainable fibres. Yes, regenerative, recycled, and organic cotton are more expensive. But what’s the cost of inaction? The economic fallout of climate-driven disruptions—failed crops, damaged infrastructure, displaced communities—far outweighs the upfront costs of sustainability. Forward-thinking brands and suppliers must recognise that paying a premium for sustainable practices today is an investment in their own survival tomorrow.

A Call to Collective Responsibility: The climate crisis requires collective action. Governments, businesses, and individuals all have a role to play. For businesses like ours, the challenge is not just to comply with evolving regulations but to lead by example. To inspire trust in our partners, to innovate relentlessly, and to ensure that sustainability is woven into the very fabric of what we do.

Hope in Action: Despite the gravity of the situation, there’s hope. Every regenerative field, every tonne of recycled fibre, every solar panel installed is a step toward a more sustainable future. The path is not easy, but with determination and collaboration, we can create a world where both people and the planet thrive. Let’s not lose sight of the bigger picture: we are stewards of this planet, and we owe it to future generations to act decisively and responsibly.

The Soorty Regenagri Initiative has made commendable progress, engaging 1,049 small-scale farmers across 5,000 acres in Bahawalpur, South Punjab.
The Soorty Regenagri Initiative has made commendable progress, engaging 1,049 small-scale farmers across 5,000 acres in Bahawalpur, South Punjab. Soorty

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 

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  • Dated posted: 21 November 2024
  • Last modified: 21 November 2024