Misconception Around Cotton’s Water Usage Has Created Ripple Effects on Denim Industry

Soorty Enterprises is the only company with LEED Platinum and Cradle2Cradle Gold certifications for both its denim mill and garment factory. Eda Dikmen, Senior Marketing & Communications Manager and Mobeen Chughtai, Head of Corporate Communications & Corporate Social Responsibility, talk about cotton, denim and climate goals. This is the first of a 2-part interview.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • It’s time to move past outdated myths and recognise cotton’s potential as a driver of economic resilience and environmental stewardship in the global denim supply chain.
  • The denim industry’s future is not about rejecting cotton but embracing smarter cultivation methods.
  • Soorty is exploring low-carbon logistics solutions and recycling programmes to close the loop across its supply chain.
Soorty believes that the narrative around cotton’s water footprint needs a shift—from one of blame to one of possibility. Through science-backed practices and farmer-centric innovations, it demonstrates that cotton can thrive sustainably, even in water-scarce regions.
cotton can thrive sustainably Soorty believes that the narrative around cotton’s water footprint needs a shift—from one of blame to one of possibility. Through science-backed practices and farmer-centric innovations, it demonstrates that cotton can thrive sustainably, even in water-scarce regions. Soorty

The denim supply chain goes back to cotton, fields, farmers. But cotton is still maligned over its water usage, etc. How much is the myth around cotton affecting denim? How do you tackle such propaganda against cotton?
We feel that this critique has its heart in the right place but often oversimplifies the complexities of cotton farming, particularly in regions like Pakistan. The truth is that cotton’s water footprint varies significantly depending on farming practices, climate, and irrigation methods.

In Pakistan, the average water footprint for cotton is approximately 8,000 litres per kg, lower than the global average of 10,000 litres per kg. This efficiency stems from widespread use of the canal irrigation system, which utilises river-fed water that would otherwise drain into the sea, and rain-harvested underground water systems in regions like Balochistan. These systems minimise the reliance on freshwater extraction.

Initiatives like the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) have driven a 30–40% reduction in water usage in many areas through practices such as laser land levelling and optimised irrigation. These methods not only conserve water but also enhance soil health and crop resilience.

The misconception around cotton’s water usage has ripple effects on the denim industry, creating undue scepticism about its sustainability. However, Soorty Enterprises actively counters this narrative by leading the way in regenerative and organic cotton farming through projects like SOCI (Soorty Organic Cotton Initiative) and the RegenAgri Initiative. These initiatives use innovative techniques to reduce water use further, often bringing it down to 4,500–7,000 litres per kg—this supplemented by the up to 80% reduction in water usage in the industrial manufacturing process, itself.

At Soorty, we believe that the narrative around cotton’s water footprint needs a shift—from one of blame to one of possibility. Through science-backed practices and farmer-centric innovations, we demonstrate that cotton can thrive sustainably, even in water-scarce regions. The denim industry’s future is not about rejecting cotton but embracing smarter cultivation methods. By investing in transparency and driving change at the grassroots, we are turning a so-called liability into a sustainable asset. It’s time to move past outdated myths and recognise cotton’s potential as a driver of economic resilience and environmental stewardship in the global denim supply chain.

Data and the value of transparent information drive us. We established our platform, Future Possibilities, over six years ago to foster transparency and engage stakeholders on responsible production and conscious consumerism. The platform has both online and offline aspects. Offline, we host events, talks, and pop-ups that bring together brands, supply chain partners, artists, academics, NGOs, and individuals to engage, to collaborate on innovative ideas for a sustainable future. Online, our website serves as a continually updated resource that shares insights on every element of denim production—from materials to labour and supply chain partnerships. Our goal is to inform and inspire, while being inspired by others, empowering customers to make conscious decisions while celebrating the hard work behind responsible fashion.

Soorty was the first large-scale textile manufacturer out of Pakistan to be SBTi-validated. For us, this reflects our commitment to leading the denim industry toward a sustainable future. To achieve our ambitious goals of reducing Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 54.6% by 2033, we’ve implemented a comprehensive roadmap.

Mobeen Chughtai
Head, Corporate Communications & Corporate Social Responsibility
Soorty Enterprises
Mobeen Chughtai
In today’s world, sustainability isn’t just a responsibility—it’s a business necessity. Through verified practices, global certifications, and a commitment to continuous improvement, it substantiates its claim of creating a "kinder version of denim."
more than a tagline In today’s world, sustainability isn’t just a responsibility—it’s a business necessity. Through verified practices, global certifications, and a commitment to continuous improvement, it substantiates its claim of creating a "kinder version of denim." Soorty

Some 10–11 months ago, Soorty relaunched the website with the tag "a kinder version of denim". Now, that's a very emphatic assertion to make. In today's world, you need to substantiate and provide evidence for everything. Or else, it is nothing more than just a claim. So, how do you justify that "kind" assertion?
Our phrasing—"a kinder version of denim"—is deliberate and reflects our unwavering commitment to sustainability, social responsibility, and innovation. In a system that still has a long way to go before it can be considered truly inclusive for all stakeholders—our kindness is reflected in the way we source materials, produce our products, and engage with our communities.

First, our environmental practices provide clear evidence. Our LEED Platinum-certified facilities offered the highest safety tier for our workers. We use advanced wastewater recycling systems that recover up to 80% of water, significantly reducing our reliance on freshwater sources. We’ve also transitioned to on-site solar, wind and biomass energy, reducing our carbon footprint by millions of kilograms of CO₂ annually. Our Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) validated targets underscore our efforts to align with global climate goals, aiming for a 54.6% reduction in GHG emissions by 2033.

Second, our material innovations bring kindness to the forefront. We prioritise using organic, regenerative, and recycled cotton through projects like SOCI and the RegenAgri Initiative, which enhance soil health and reduce water usage. We are the first organisation in the world to be C2C validated across the entirety of our verticality. Our efforts contribute to a circular economy by minimising waste and promoting sustainability at every stage.

Finally, "kindness" extends to people. Our worker wellbeing programmes, including initiatives like PRISM and SEWS, uplift thousands of employees and their families by focusing on health, education, and gender inclusivity. Additionally, we collaborate with local farmers, equipping them with training and resources to adopt sustainable agricultural practices that improve their livelihoods and reduce environmental impact.

In today’s world, sustainability isn’t just a responsibility—it’s a business necessity. Through verified practices, global certifications, and a commitment to continuous improvement, we substantiate our claim of creating a "kinder version of denim." It’s more than a tagline; it’s the ethos that drives everything we do.

Eda Dikmen
Eda Dikmen
Senior Marketing & Communications Manager
Soorty Enterprises

The misconception around cotton’s water usage has ripple effects on the denim industry, creating undue scepticism about its sustainability. However, Soorty Enterprises actively counters this narrative by leading the way in regenerative and organic cotton farming through projects like SOCI (Soorty Organic Cotton Initiative) and the RegenAgri Initiative.

Only a few weeks ago, Soorty received validation from the SBTi on its climate goals and measures. How are you planning to cut down on Scope 1/2 emissions? What does your own Scope 3 emissions look like, and where do these come from?
Yes, Soorty was the first large-scale textile manufacturer out of Pakistan to be SBTi-validated. For us, this reflects our commitment to leading the denim industry toward a sustainable future. To achieve our ambitious goals of reducing Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 54.6% by 2033, we’ve implemented a comprehensive roadmap.

Scope 1 and 2 Emissions Reductions: For Scope 1, which includes direct emissions from our operations, we are transitioning away from fossil fuels by adopting biomass boilers and expanding our solar energy projects. We already utilise energy-efficient machinery and high-efficiency motors, across our Spinning, Weaving and Garments divisions, which significantly reduce our carbon footprint. In Scope 2, we aim to reduce emissions from purchased electricity by increasing our reliance on on-site renewable energy generation. Our current solar generation of 7.6 MW will increase to nearly 12 MW by mid-2025. We are also setting up a 4.8 MW wind turbine at our Nooriabad Fabric Mill. 

Understanding Scope 3: Scope 3 emissions represent the majority of our carbon footprint, encompassing purchased goods and services, upstream transportation, and business travel. Our base year (2021) emissions in this category saw a 7% reduction in just one year. 

Strategies for Scope 3 Reduction: To tackle Scope 3, we’re focusing on supplier collaboration and sustainable sourcing. Our initiatives include using organic and regenerative cotton, which have lower associated emissions due to minimal use of synthetic fertilisers and improved soil management. Additionally, we are exploring low-carbon logistics solutions and recycling programmes to close the loop in our supply chain.

By integrating these targeted actions across all scopes, we are confident in our ability to meet both our near-term and long-term SBTi commitments, ultimately achieving a 90% reduction across Scope 1, 2, and 3 emissions by 2050. We’ve also partnered with the NetZero Pakistan Coalition to develop a Scope 3 mitigation roadmap for the entire sector. 

Addressing Shared Challenges: While Soorty is committed to transformative action, it’s important to recognise that we are just one actor within a vast and interconnected value chain. The challenge of Scope 3 emissions is inherently a shared one, involving multiple stakeholders across different regions and sectors. No single organisation can control the entire spectrum of emissions, especially when it comes to suppliers and logistics partners.

This challenge is compounded by the ambitious Net Zero targets set by some brands for 2035 or 2040, which, while commendable for their climate focus, often overlook the disparities between the Global North and Global South. In countries like Pakistan, where we operate, value chains face systemic barriers—limited financial resources, inadequate policy support, and gaps in technical expertise. These disparities hinder our ability to meet accelerated timelines and transition equitably.

Moreover, emerging regulations like the Carbon Border Adjustment Mechanism (CBAM) add another layer of complexity. While these frameworks aim to promote sustainable practices, they risk imposing additional financial burdens on suppliers in developing nations without providing the necessary support to address the root causes of emissions. This risks exacerbating existing inequalities instead of fostering a truly global, inclusive approach to climate action.

To tackle Scope 3, Soorty is focusing on supplier collaboration and sustainable sourcing. Its initiatives include using organic and regenerative cotton, which have lower associated emissions due to minimal use of synthetic fertilisers and improved soil management.
To tackle Scope 3, Soorty is focusing on supplier collaboration and sustainable sourcing. Its initiatives include using organic and regenerative cotton, which have lower associated emissions due to minimal use of synthetic fertilisers and improved soil management. Soorty

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 

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  • Dated posted: 20 November 2024
  • Last modified: 20 November 2024