Landmark Responsible Textile Recovery Act Signed into Law by California Governor

California has become the first US state to pass a textile Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) bill, which aims to hold producers accountable for the reuse and recycling of apparel and footwear sold in the state.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 now a reality, is likely to be sold in many parts of the world as an idea that can be conceptualised and implemented: in short, replicated. At least, in a broad sense.
  • The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 would require a producer of apparel, as defined, or textile articles, as defined, to form and join a producer responsibility organisation, or PRO for short.
Producer means a person who manufactures a covered product and who owns or is the licensee of the brand or trademark under which that covered product is sold, offered for sale, or distributed for sale in or into the state.
Producer's responsibility Producer means a person who manufactures a covered product and who owns or is the licensee of the brand or trademark under which that covered product is sold, offered for sale, or distributed for sale in or into the state. StockSnap / Pixabay

One of the issues plaguing the textiles-fashion industry has been that of not much happening at the ground level. California has just taken that first legislative step towards the textile circularity.

It has become the first US state to pass a textile Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) bill, which aims to hold producers accountable for the reuse and recycling of apparel and footwear sold in the state. California State Governor Gavin Newsom on Friday signed the SB 707 Bill into law.

The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 is now a reality, and is likely to be sold in many parts of the world as an idea that can be conceptualised and implemented: in short, replicated. At least, in a broad sense.

By average standards, it hasn't taken long for this to go from the Bill to the Act stage. SB 707 was introduced by Senator Josh Newman on 16 February 2023. The Bill's co-authors were Ash Kalra, Gail Pellerin, Nancy Skinner and Scott Wiener. All are Democrats.

After passing through the State Standing Committees on Environmental Quality, Judiciary, Appropriations, and then the Assembly Standing committees on Natural Resources and Appropriations, and finally the Senate floor on 30 August, SB 707 was enrolled and presented to the Governor on 11 September. Governor Newsom approved it on 28 September.

Given the intervening weekend since the Governor's approval, Newman's official website is yet to issue a statement, as are supporters and detractors of the legislation.

Making it work

The text of the SB 707 runs into more than 10,000 words, but the long and short of it would be something like this:

The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 would require a producer of apparel, as defined, or textile articles, as defined, to form and join a producer responsibility organisation, or PRO for short. The PRO would have to be approved by theDepartment of Resources Recycling and Recovery (or a successor agency)pursuant to the requirements of the bill. The department will have to adopt regulations to implement the programme no earlier than 1 July 2028.

The PRO will have to submit to the department, for approval or disapproval, a complete plan for the collection, transportation, repair, sorting, and recycling, and the safe and proper management, of apparel and textile articles in the state. Upon approval of a plan, or commencing 1 July 2030, whichever is earlier, a producer would be subject to specified civil penalties, unless the producer is a participant of a PRO and all apparel and textiles are accounted for in the plan.

The PRO will have to review the plan at least every five years after approval. A PRO will also have to submit an annual report to the department. All reports and records will have to be provided to the department to be provided under penalty of perjury. By expanding the scope of the crime of perjury, there would be a state-mandated local programme. There would be restricted public access to certain information collected for the purpose of administering the programme.

The department will post on its internet website a list of producers that are in compliance with the requirements of the programme. PROs will o pay fees to the department, not to exceed the department’s actual and reasonable regulatory costs to implement and enforce the act.

The Act establishes a Textile Stewardship Recovery Fund in the State Treasury for the deposit of all monies received from PROs and would make the monies in the fund available to the department, upon appropriation by the Legislature, for purposes of the programme.

The department has also been authorised to impose administrative civil penalties for a violation of the programme requirements, not to exceed $10,000 per day, or not to exceed $50,000 per day for an intentional or knowing violation, as specified.

Moreover, the Act will create a Textile Stewardship Recovery Penalty Account in the fund for the deposit of penalties, which would be available for expenditure upon appropriation by the Legislature.

Besides, there would be an online marketplace to notify the department and the PRO of all third-party sellers with sales of apparel or textile articles over $1,000,000 sold on their online marketplace in the preceding year and provide all required information, as specified, and to provide those sellers with information regarding the related laws governing the PRO plan.

The official Summary of the SB 707 says: “Existing constitutional provisions require that a statute that limits the right of access to the meetings of public bodies or the writings of public officials and agencies be adopted with findings demonstrating the interest protected by the limitation and the need for protecting that interest. This bill would make legislative findings to that effect. The California Constitution requires the state to reimburse local agencies and school districts for certain costs mandated by the state. Statutory provisions establish procedures for making that reimbursement.”

[This article will be updated as and when reactions from various stakeholders become available.]

What is apparel

Apparel means clothing and accessory items intended for regular wear or formal occasions and outdoor activities. For purposes of this chapter apparel includes only undergarments, shirts, pants, skirts, dresses, overalls, bodysuits, costumes, vests, dancewear, suits, saris, scarves, tops, leggings, school uniforms, leisurewear, athletic wear, sports uniforms, swimwear, formal wear, onesies, bibs, footwear, handbags, backpacks, knitted and woven accessories, jackets, coats, snow pants, ski pants, and everyday uniforms for workwear.

What it is not

Apparel does not include any of the following: (a)Personal protective equipment or clothing items for use by the United States military. (b)Personal protective equipment worn to protect the wearer from health or environmental hazards. (c)Reusable products designed to collect and absorb urine and feces, or reusable products regulated by the United States Food and Drug Administration that are designed to collect and absorb menstruation or vaginal discharge.

Defining repair

Repair means any alteration or improvement of damaged covered product deemed worth the cost of repair by criteria established by the plan, including, but not limited to, any of the following:

  1. Redesigning and repurposing.
  2. Mending rips, holes, seams, and hems.
  3. Removing and repairing surface damage, such as pilling, stain removal, or abrasion.
  4. Securing and reattaching buttons and other fastenings.
  5. Dyeing, redyeing, overdyeing, or printing of images on covered products.
  6. Preparation for reuse and resale.
Other definitions

There are some other definitions:

  • Reuse means the resale of a collected covered product to a consumer for its original intended use with or without repair.
  • Secondhand covered product means any covered product that has been previously owned by a consumer.
  • Secondhand markets means a retailer who sells secondhand covered products, including, but not limited to, thrift stores, collection box operators, online resale platforms, and flea markets.
  • Sell has the same meaning as set forth in Section 6006 of the Revenue and Taxation Code.
 
 
  • Dated posted: 30 September 2024
  • Last modified: 30 September 2024