Jeanologia Continues to Innovate, Aiming for Fully Zero-Waste Production Process

Spanish manufacturer Jeanologia, which has been at the cutting-edge of denim production since the beginning, is celebrating the 25th anniversary of its laser technology. Carmen Silla, Marketing Director at Jeanologia, talks about the technology, supply chains and clean production.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Just as laser technology was a significant change 25 years ago, today the great shift is from water to Air Wash.
  • In large organisations, there is often a struggle between bureaucracy and the drive for change, creating barriers that slow the implementation of sustainable innovations already available in the market.
  • Laser technology reduces production time and ensures consistency, enhancing both productivity and quality.
Laser technology acts as a thermal source that eliminates the indigo dye of denim fabrics by sublimation, which means evaporating indigo from solid to gaseous form through heat.  Jeanologia is known for its cutting-edge laser technology.
Cutting-Edge Laser technology acts as a thermal source that eliminates the indigo dye of denim fabrics by sublimation, which means evaporating indigo from solid to gaseous form through heat. Jeanologia is known for its cutting-edge laser technology. Jeanologia

texfash: Supply chains are crucial to the denim industry. How does the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) affect your company's operations? What did your company have to do to ensure that things are in place? 
Carmen Silla: The Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) plays a vital role in ensuring that supply chains across the denim industry operate ethically and sustainably. For Jeanologia, this directive aligns closely with our long-standing commitment to transparency, human rights, and environmental protection. To meet CSDDD requirements, we have strengthened our processes to conduct thorough due diligence at every stage of our supply chain, ensuring compliance with labour standards, environmental regulations, and ethical sourcing practices.

We've implemented robust monitoring systems, and work closely with suppliers to promote sustainability standards that go beyond compliance.

The denim supply chain goes back to cotton, fields, farmers. But cotton is still maligned over its water usage, etc. How much is the myth around cotton affecting denim? How do you tackle such propaganda against cotton?
Carmen Silla: The denim supply chain indeed begins with cotton, a natural and versatile fibre essential to denim products. While cotton's water usage has raised concerns, it's important to distinguish between conventional practices and newer, more sustainable methods. Misconceptions often arise from outdated views, overlooking significant improvements in water efficiency and regenerative agriculture.

It's been 25 years since Jeanologia's laser technology was announced. What difference has it made to denim production?  Could you share any comparative numbers? How do you measure the impact that it has had in all these years?
Carmen Silla: Jeanologia’s laser technology, introduced 25 years ago, has transformed denim production by drastically reducing the environmental impact and improving efficiency. The technology has eliminated hazardous manual processes like sandblasting, significantly reducing water, chemical, and energy consumption. Additionally, laser technology reduces production time and ensures consistency, enhancing both productivity and quality.

To measure our impact, we use our Environmental Impact Measuring (EIM) software, which provides precise assessments of the environmental effects associated with garment finishing processes. EIM allows laundries, brands, and retailers to evaluate their performance objectively and transparently. For example, using our technology, brands have reported improvements in their environmental impact by as much as 70–80%, with notable reductions in water and energy consumption. This comprehensive measurement tool helps establish environmental benchmarks, enabling our partners to set clear sustainability goals without sacrificing the desired aesthetics of their denim products.

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textiles industry, improving sustainability, quality and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship.
By the Laser The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textiles industry, improving sustainability, quality and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Jeanologia

How has the working relationship with brands, designers and manufacturers changed over the years? To cut it short, what is the one thing that has changed with all of them?
Carmen Silla: Over the years, our relationships with brands, designers, and manufacturers have evolved into more collaborative and purpose-driven partnerships, rooted in a profound shift in mindset. Where once the focus was mainly on meeting production targets, today there’s a strong commitment across the industry on sustainability, transparency, and innovation. However, the greatest challenge we face is the speed at which innovation can be adopted. In large organisations, there is often a struggle between bureaucracy and the drive for change, creating barriers that slow the implementation of sustainable innovations already available in the market.

Jeanologia showcased the G2+ Indra system for garment washing at ITMA Asia. Could you tell us more about it? A new system usually tries to solve an existing problem, or simply refines the process. What is the problem with garment washing that you wanted to resolve?
Carmen Silla: So far, to age denim and achieve the famous stone-washed finish, traditional washing machines have been used, with water as the primary carrier. This process consumes large amounts of water, along with chemicals and pumice stone. Jeanologia aims to transform the wet process by replacing traditional washing machines with its Air Wash technology, which controls air temperature, humidity, and ozone gas.

The Air Wash G2 Indra technology manages all these parameters for both denim and colour, creating aged effects and stone washes without using chemicals, pumice, or water. Compared to a traditional process, using G2 Indra allows us to save up to 95% of water.

The process we achieve with this technology is called Atmos. Atmos is the new stone wash—efficient and 100% sustainable—while maintaining the authenticity and natural look.

The Air Wash G2 Indra technology is the present and future of the denim industry. Just as laser technology was a significant change 25 years ago, today the great shift is from water to Air.

Carmen Silla
Carmen Silla
Marketing Director
Jeanologia

The denim supply chain indeed begins with cotton, a natural and versatile fibre essential to denim products. While cotton's water usage has raised concerns, it's important to distinguish between conventional practices and newer, more sustainable methods. Misconceptions often arise from outdated views, overlooking significant improvements in water efficiency and regenerative agriculture.

Jeanologia offers a line of garment dyeing equipment. ColorBox is the new garment dyeing machine, that ensures low impact dyeing and colour reproducibility through a simplified garment dyeing finishing process.
Colour in a Box Jeanologia offers a line of garment dyeing equipment. ColorBox is the new garment dyeing machine, that ensures low impact dyeing and colour reproducibility through a simplified garment dyeing finishing process. Jeanologia

The Atmos process reduces water usage by 1 litre. Could you explain how this works?
Carmen Silla: The Atmos process, as previously explained, replaces the traditional stone wash, achieving perfect abrasion on the seams and an authentic look. Depending on the time we introduce the denim into the G2 Indra, we can achieve the desired shade, ranging from a medium shade to baby blue. Therefore, the water consumption will vary based on the look being sought. As mentioned earlier, the water savings can be up to 95%, considering that, in addition to this technology, other efficient technologies need to be used to complete the process.

You are also part of HKRITA's Open Lab project. What is your role in that?
Carmen Silla: Jeanologia is proud to be a part of HKRITA’s Open Lab project, a pioneering initiative focused on developing sustainable, scalable solutions for the textile industry. Through the Open Lab’s industrial-scale Pilot Plant, we aim to help advance recycling and circularity in textiles, including through initiatives like Green Machine 2.0, which separates polyester from PET-cotton blends to recycle up to one tonne of material daily. Jeanologia’s role is both technical and collaborative, reinforcing our commitment to a sustainable future for fashion.

There are two issues that denim has to deal with: dyes and water. What do you think Jeanologia has been able to achieve on this count? And yes, how can things still be better?
Carmen Silla: Jeanologia has made significant progress in addressing two of denim’s biggest challenges: dyes and water consumption. Our technologies, such as laser, Air Wash G2 Tech, and our H2 Zero system, have transformed traditional processes, reducing water use by up to 95% and minimising the need for harmful chemicals. H2 Zero is key to water reduction and zero waste, functioning as a closed-loop water recovery system that enables the reuse of water throughout production, drastically lowering the industry's water footprint. In terms of dyeing and adding colour to a garment, innovations like our Colorbox technology have improved dye efficiency, ensuring vibrant colours with less environmental impact.

However, we know there is still more to achieve. We continue to innovate, aiming for a fully zero-waste production process.

Over the years, our relationships with brands, designers, and manufacturers have evolved into more collaborative and purpose-driven partnerships, rooted in a profound shift in mindset. Where once the focus was mainly on meeting production targets, today there’s a strong commitment across the industry on sustainability, transparency, and innovation.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 13 November 2024
  • Last modified: 13 November 2024