It Takes Time to Meet Expectations of Market to Have the Systemic Change Needed

A start-up with a meteoric rise almost and a sudden burn out, bankruptcy-hit Renewcell, now awaits investments to put it back on track. texfash.com talks to its Chief Commercial Officer Tricia Carey to know more.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Companies were buying Circulose pulp and viscose made with Circulose in the third and fourth quarter, but not at the rates needed to sustain business against the finances needed.
  • Advice to innovators: Avoid operating as a publicly listed company, carefully select your partners, and diversify your market presence for resilience and growth.
  • Advice to brands: Collaborate closely with suppliers, sharing risks and aligning strategies for a sustainable, long-term perspective.
The Renewcell plan was to recycle the equivalent of more than 1,4 billion t-shirts every year by 2030.
PLANS CUT SHORT The Renewcell plan was to recycle the equivalent of more than 1,4 billion t-shirts every year by 2030. Alexander Donka / Renewcell

Renewcell breaks down used cotton and other cellulose-rich textiles and transforms them into a new, raw material: Circulose. Re:NewCell AB (publ) (“Renewcell”) developed a patented process that enables the recycling of cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out cotton clothes and production scraps, transforming it into a pristine new material called Circulose. 

Founded by innovators from Stockholm’s KTH Royal Institute of Technology in 2012, the award-winning, Sweden-based sustaintech company’s vision is to make fashion circular.

Through its patented process, Renewcell recycles cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out cotton clothes and production scraps, transforming it into a pristine new material called Circulose. It was declared one of the World’s Most Innovative Companies in 2021, as well as World Changing Idea in 2023. Circulose was also included on Time magazine’s list of the 100 Best Inventions 2020.

A release dated 27 February 2024 said: “Re:NewCell AB (publ) (“Re:NewCell”) announces that the Stockholm District Court has decided to approve the previously communicated bankruptcy application and has declared the company bankrupt. The appointed bankruptcy trustee is lawyer Lars-Henrik Andersson at Cirio Advokatbyrå.”
 

texfash.com: Did the bankruptcy come as a shock? Or, since the funding was not coming through, it was expected? There were shockwaves for sure across the industry. But expecting something is very different from grappling with reality. Your comments, please.
Tricia Carey: End of November 2023, the Board of Directors issued a strategic review for investors and end of December there was a compilation of short-term funding for three months. As a publicly listed company this was a transparent process. 

In the last interview to texfash.com end June last year you had said: “…we have really been moving quickly over the past six months to ramp up the production of the first industrial scale textile-to-textile recycling facility…” Do you think Renewcell moved too fast? In retrospect, one thinks with greater clarity. Have you had time yet to think and understand why what happened and all so sudden?
Tricia Carey: Companies were buying Circulose pulp and viscose made with Circulose in the third and fourth quarter, but not at the rates needed to sustain business against the finances needed.  The normal cycle for material adoption is 12–18 months with existing products.  

We only launched the Circulose Supplier Network in July 2023 to signal to the market that there is Circulose available and open for businesses and not a market-back approach used with the pilot line. After the six-month delay in building Renewcell1, we needed more time for the commercial runway to get sampling started through the suppliers.  

By October 2023, there was the announcement that our sales projections would not be met and then a cloud of concern came over the market. During that time, and up until the bankruptcy announcement, we were working on developing more brand leaders to signal to the market that viscose made with Circulose was a viable circularity solution and to encourage more brands to make purchases. 

Frankly, all this takes time to meet the expectations of the market to have the systemic change needed.

Again, you had remarked: “We have some exciting news—in July we will be launching the first Circulose Supplier Network for early adopters committed to change. Stay tuned for more on this initiative.” – What was the status on that? Did it take off?
Tricia Carey: The Circulose Supplier Network did progress beyond our expectations.  The spinners, knitters, and weavers were eager to develop and showcase their products. You can see the full list here:  CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network – Circulose.  We were in the middle of the Spring ’25 tradeshows when the bankruptcy hit. Specifically, I was attending the Bharatex trade show in New Delhi and seeing the new customer developments in apparel and home. 

The Circulose Supplier Network partners, led by Karacasu Tekstil and Kipas Textiles, have joined in solidarity to write an open letter for public attention stating: “We are committed to doing even more to help Renewcell succeed.” CSN partners remain supportive to develop and market viscose made with Circulose.

And I quote from that interview yet again:  “We all need to work towards lower environmental impacts and higher social standards within the global fashion industry.” How do you see the industry shaping up after this debacle?
Tricia Carey: Following Renewcell's bankruptcy, the obstacles encountered by innovators and multinational corporations take centrestage. It's evident that the traditional linear fashion model is deeply flawed, and simply introducing new developments won't suffice. Brands need strategic objectives with a clear roadmap and organisational framework to effectively navigate these challenges.

What’s the status now on putting Renewcell back on its feet? What is the status when it comes to the employees, be it salaries, retrenchment, offices, etc etc. Do elaborate.
Tricia Carey: With regards to the deadline of 28 March at 12:00pm CET for receiving purchase offers, the Renewcell Bankruptcy Trustee confirms that multiple bids have been submitted for the business and assets of the estate. These offers will undergo a thorough review process, with a final closing expected in the middle of April.

The Renewcell estate is managed by Lars-Henrik Andersson at Cirio Advokatbyra. Prior to the bankruptcy Renewcell had an average of 130 employees and now after the layoffs there is a small team of approximately 20 people to support the business transition, but not all are working full time hours. The Stockholm office is now vacated and there is no production at the Ortviken facility since January.

The learnings from this are not for Renewcell alone. It's for entire industry, especially those who want to make a change. If I were a startup either into recycling or alternative fibres, etc, what would your advice be?
Tricia Carey: Advice to innovators: Avoid operating as a publicly listed company, carefully select your partners, and diversify your market presence for resilience and growth.

Furthermore, advice to brands: Take proactive steps rather than waiting for legislative changes. Collaborate closely with suppliers, sharing risks and aligning strategies for a sustainable, long-term perspective.

Circulose functioned as an ‘ingredient brand’ that helps people find virgin-quality textile products made from recycled textiles. Using the Circulose trademark is an effective way of sharing the circular story behind clothes that you could never tell are recycled.
Circulose functioned as an ‘ingredient brand’ that helps people find virgin-quality textile products made from recycled textiles. Using the Circulose trademark is an effective way of sharing the circular story behind clothes that you could never tell are recycled. Alexander Donka / Renewcell

Following Renewcell's bankruptcy, the obstacles encountered by innovators and multinational corporations take centre stage. It's evident that the traditional linear fashion model is deeply flawed, and simply introducing new developments won't suffice. Brands need strategic objectives with a clear roadmap and organisational framework to effectively navigate these challenges.

Tricia Carey
Chief Commercial Officer
Renewcell
Tricia Carey
Editor's Comments: This interview has been updated with additional information in the response to the question "What’s the status now on putting...."

Richa Bansal

RICHA BANSAL has more than 30 years of media industry experience, of which the last 20 years have been with leading fashion magazines in both B2B and B2C domains. Her areas of interest are traditional textiles and fabrics, retail operations, case studies, branding stories, and interview-driven features.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 4 April 2024
  • Last modified: 4 April 2024