Hub of All Things: Berlin’s Fashion Space Enables a Co-Ownership Approach

The much-awaited VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub kicked off last month. The Hub intends to become just that—a hub—for positive change in the fashion industry. The Hub would be a physical and digital space to create, communicate and teach collaboratively. Marte Hentschel, Co-CEO (Operations & Business Development), tells texfash.com what the Hub will look like.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • The Berlin Fashion Hub is a physical and virtual place that brings together stakeholders along the fashion value chain and the topics of sustainability, technology innovation and design.
  • VORN applies a holistic approach that brings together the different stakeholders, from machinery, material sourcing, manufacturing, finishing, retail, use & after-use.
  • Designers can test & present new concepts independently of the restrictions of global material flows & supply chains, consumers can interact directly with brands & manufacturers & complex, technical solutions can be made aesthetic.
The VORN Community is open to anyone interested in future-proofing the fashion and textile industry, actively working for change themselves, and looking to become more sustainable within their production and structures. It is a place for learning and teaching, as the exchange of expertise, research results and learnings from within the community are shared for the community.
Hub for Change The VORN Community is open to anyone interested in future-proofing the fashion and textiles industry, actively working for change themselves, and looking to become more sustainable within their production and structures. It is a place for learning and teaching, as the exchange of expertise, research results and learnings from within the community are shared for the community. VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub

VORN - The Berlin Fashion Hub is a physical and digital place in the heart of Berlin, where innovations for a sustainable development of the fashion industry are collaboratively designed, communicated and implemented.

As a registered cooperative, the Hub's focus is on the profitable business of a community. Its four programmes—Community Services, Innovation Lab, Scaling Programme and Coworking Space—seek to create a pre-competitive environment for positive impact in the fashion industry: it is a marketplace for curated services.

The goal: Economically successful circularity in the fashion and textile industry as well as taking social responsibility and reducing CO₂ emissions. VORN is commissioned and co-funded by the Senate Department for Economics, Energy and Public Enterprises.

The Hub has three founding entities:

  • Studio MM04 is an  agency for creative strategy consulting in Berlin, the Studio MM04 team primarily advises fashion and textile companies that want to become more sustainable.
  • Sqetch is a sustainable, digital B2B sourcing and networking platform where labels and textile manufacturers can connect with each other - from the idea to the finished product.
  • Andreas Krüger and Andreas Foidl, the founders of Belius, work with their team on project and neighbourhood development oriented towards the common good — always in close exchange with the actors of the creative industries.

Let’s talk about Ground Zero. What steps will VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub take to ensure that the diverse cogs in the textile-fashion supply chain talk to each other to ensure innovation that will actually help regenerative, sustainable fashion? In other words, how is it going to play out on the ground?
The Berlin Fashion Hub is a physical and virtual place that brings together stakeholders along the fashion value chain and the topics of sustainability, technology innovation and design. We observe that there are already many potential solutions for pressing sustainability issues, but due to the lack of networking and integration, they hardly scale and are not visible enough on the market.
VORN takes on this task and provides a platform and service infrastructure so that the various stakeholders can qualify themselves, network with each other, initiate cooperations, carry out research and development projects and generate visibility for state-of-the-art results. This is implemented in the form of four pillars in the Hub:

  • Via community services for networking, qualification, talent recruiting and exchange
  • Via coworking opportunities, where we bring together innovators and pioneers of the industry in our space
  • Via the innovation Lab, where research and development projects are implemented in a living lab approach and the results are piloted for the market.
  • And finally, the Scaling Program, where start-ups with market-ready solutions come together with SMEs and industry to grow, internationalise and conquer new markets together in order to scale the positive impact of their solutions.

What will be the space carved out for each cog of the supply chain, not so much as a physical space, but ensuring that they are a critical part of the overall plan? How important are conversations within this space?
One of the big challenges in the sustainable and digital transformation of the fashion industry we observed is the disconnection between the stages of the value chain due to decades of offshoring, high-speed cycles and devaluation of garment. At VORN - The Berlin Fashion Hub, we apply a holistic approach that brings together the different stakeholders, from machinery, material sourcing, manufacturing, finishing, retail, use & after-use. Stakeholders from other industries and technology fields such as Web3, Climate Tech, consumer electronics and technical textiles are also invited to this open exchange in order to provide important impulses.

One of VORN's core competencies is its pre-competitive environment in the highly competitive fashion industry. This allows community members to be as prepared as possible to compete in the free market and work in community to realize a net-positive and circular future in fashion.
The Community One of VORN's core competencies is its pre-competitive environment in the highly competitive fashion industry. This allows community members to be as prepared as possible to compete in the free market and work in community to realize a net-positive and circular future in fashion. VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub

Exhibitions, talk shows, etc, etc, remain just that, more often than not. There is a dialogue for that brief period of time, an exchange of ideas. What steps will be taken to ensure that at least some of that talk actually comes to the workshop?
VORN sees itself as a pre-competitive space providing a physical and digital infrastructure of complementary service supporting our members and partners to help themselves and empower each other. In addition to opportunities for learning and networking, this also includes designer and researcher in-residence programmes such as the currently running VORN Academy Program, in which a group of designers from different disciplines create a circular phygital collection introduced in an immersive showcase during Berlin Fashion Week and thus explore the intersection between physical and virtual fashion in the metaverse and IRL.

In addition, solutions will be piloted in R&D programmes in the Innovation Lab. Topics include micro-manufacturing, in-store recycling, on-demand production and customisation.

Phygital is the new normal. How ‘phygital’ will VORN — The Berlin Fashion Hub be?
Our campus in the heart of Berlin is a meeting place complemented by a digital platform. Technologies are tools that can make dynamic the sustainable transformation of the media industry. Designers can test and present new concepts independently of the restrictions of global material flows and supply chains, consumers can interact directly with brands and manufacturers and complex, technical solutions can be made aesthetic. VORN sees itself as an enabler in these technology fields and provides creative people and pioneers with access to these often inaccessible, unaffordable innovations and organises cooperation regardless of company size, background and origin. The collaboration and the results can be physical, digital/virtual or phygital.

Start-ups and the youth seem to be your focus areas. What will be the process to identify real talent, pathbreaking innovation? This gains significance in light of the first pillar to be live is the online innovation platform.
Many important impulses come from young professionals and start-ups that can scale powerful solutions in the market in a bottom-up approach in cooperation with research, SMEs and industry. Partnering companies can recruit future talent in this pool and get to know different approaches to solutions, as it is often time-consuming and challenging to gain and maintain an overview of the state of development in the various fields of innovation. Results can be focused on R&D projects, intrapreneurship, mergers & acquisitions and strategic investments. The power of design and consumer engagement is often underestimated when it comes to innovation. Empowering the next generations might be the link towards a net positive, regenerative fashion economy.

Our network is international, even though our physical campus is based in Berlin. Germany is an exciting market with clients interested in sustainability, large investments in R&D, hidden champions and a lot of potential for digital transformation, and Berlin is a melting pot for creatives and pioneers from all over the world to establish synergies in an exciting environment.

Marte Hentschel
Co-CEO (Operations & Business Development)
VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub
Marte Hentschel

Will VORN — The Berlin Fashion Hub be open to people outside of Germany? What steps are you taking to rope in people or companies?
Our network is international, even though our physical campus is based in Berlin. Germany is an exciting market with clients interested in sustainability, large investments in R&D, hidden champions and a lot of potential for digital transformation, and Berlin is a melting pot for creatives and pioneers from all over the world to establish synergies in an exciting environment. Many international organisations look to Berlin and Germany as a pilot market for the European region; in addition, Berlin offers a lot of support infrastructure with research and business development and a variety of innovation hubs (like VORN) and accelerators.

You are starting with a grant from the government. What will be the revenue model to make it a profitable space? Will it essentially be a for-profit venture; so, when do you think you will break even?
After preparing a feasibility study and developing a business plan, we were commissioned by the Berlin Senate Department to develop and implement the Fashion Hub starting at the end of 2021. The first programmes and projects, which have been implemented since the middle of 2022, generate additional income, so that we will reach the break-even point in 2023. As a registered cooperative and social business, the profits are primarily reinvested in the further development of the Hub.

How do you plan to interact with other existing organisations in the fashion space, say for instance, Fashion Council Germany, or say any of the big events (those are really big)?
As a consortium of three entities, we have been working for over 20 years in various corporations with Berlin, Germany and international networks and maintain good partnerships with the most important organisations, such as the Fashion Council Germany, trade shows, fashion weeks and leading conferences. We will continue to strategically expand these; as a young initiative we do not want to replace existing offers and formats, but to complement them efficiently and in a goal-oriented manner.

Considering that we are talking about everything sustainable, how earth-friendly will VORN – The Berlin Fashion Hub be? What are the benchmarks that you would be following, and more importantly, how do you plan to keep track?
We have set ourselves sustainability goals that frame all decisions and actions. These include the building and equipment of our spaces, a code of honour to initialise and implement our programmes, and multidisciplinary collaborations as a registered cooperative in a co-ownership approach. After many years in the sustainability community, it is important for us to lead by example and move beyond the debate with tangible actions and accessible results. Continuous improvement and learning from best practice examples is part of our DNA and motivates us to challenge the status quo in and beyond the fashion industry.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 18 November 2022
  • Last modified: 18 November 2022