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From Promising Start-Ups to Thriving Businesses: The ITMA 2023 Story

Innovation in textiles often stalls between prototype and production, constrained by limited access to industry networks and capital. Within this gap, platforms that connect early-stage technologies with manufacturers and brands are gaining importance. ITMA’s Start-Up Valley illustrates this shift, where emerging companies engage directly with the global textile ecosystem and accelerate their transition towards commercial viability and industrial relevance.

By

31 March 2026

 4 minutes
Long Story, Cut Short
  • Participation in ITMA’s Start-Up Valley enabled emerging textile innovators to accelerate commercialisation through direct engagement with manufacturers, brands, and investors globally.
  • Collaborations such as software-driven 3D weaving demonstrate how early-stage textile technologies can achieve rapid validation and adoption within high-value fashion segments.
  • Scaling trajectories across fibre innovation and circular materials highlight how structured exposure platforms are reshaping pathways from experimentation to industrial production.
Innovation gains momentum when early-stage technologies intersect with industry ecosystems, where exposure becomes the mechanism through which ideas transition into commercially viable textile solutions.
INDUSTRY BRIDGE Innovation gains momentum when early-stage technologies intersect with industry ecosystems, where exposure becomes the mechanism through which ideas transition into commercially viable textile solutions. ITMA Services
ITMA | 2027

At ITMA 2023, 15 start-ups were selected for the CEMATEX Start-Up Grant to showcase their technologies at Start-Up Valley, a dedicated platform connecting emerging innovators with the global textile and garment manufacturing industry.

For many of these young companies, participation went far beyond exhibition visibility. It provided direct access to manufacturers, brands, investors and technology partners across the textile value chain, accelerating their journey from innovation to industry adoption.

One standout example shows how quickly that journey can translate into real-world impact.

From Start-Up Valley to global brand collaboration

As part of its Spring 2026 collection, Paris-headquartered Balenciaga, one of the most influential luxury fashion houses, unveiled the world’s first 3D woven tailored suit, a breakthrough application of software-driven textile manufacturing.

The technology behind this innovation was developed by Balenciaga, in collaboration with WEFFAN, a Start-Up Valley participant at ITMA 2023.

This milestone demonstrates how early-stage technologies, when given the right platform, visibility and industry access, can progress rapidly towards real-world adoption, even at the highest levels of fashion.

For start-ups seeking to translate innovation into commercial reality, it is a powerful example of what can happen when they engage directly with the global textile ecosystem.

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Regenerated cellulose innovation reflects a shift where material science is re-engineered for scalability, linking renewable inputs with industrial processes that aim to redefine fibre production at commercial volumes.
FIBRE FUTURE Regenerated cellulose innovation reflects a shift where material science is re-engineered for scalability, linking renewable inputs with industrial processes that aim to redefine fibre production at commercial volumes. ITMA Services

From Exposure to Commercialisation: TreeToTextile

Among the companies gaining strong traction after ITMA 2023 is TreeToTextile, a Sweden-based innovator developing next-generation regenerated cellulose fibres.

“ITMA’s Start-Up Valley was the perfect place to begin our commercialisation journey,” says Nina Ekstrand, Head of Marketing and Communication at TreeToTextile. “We were overwhelmed by the strong interest in our fibres from brands and partners across the value chain. We continue to reap the benefits from the experience as we scale the production of our next-generation cellulose fibre.”

Progress for this Stockholm-headquartered company has subsequently been rapid and its ITMA debut coincided with the start up of a €35 million regenerated cellulose fibre demonstration plant at Stora Enso’s Nymölla mill in southern Sweden, with an initial production capacity of 1,500 tons of fibre per year.

Momentum has continued to build. In early 2026, leading fibre producer, Lenzing acquired a controlling stake in TreeToTextile, signalling strong industry confidence in its technology and future scalability.

Lenzing is now planning a significant increase in production output at the existing demonstration plant in Nymölla, as well as the preparation of a first industrial-scale facility.

“Innovation at industrial scale requires time, expertise and strong partnerships,” says TreeToTextile CEO Roxana Barbieru. “Lenzing’s increased ownership is a clear endorsement of our ambition to become a major player in the global fibre market.”

Bio-based polymers gain relevance when circularity is engineered into production systems, enabling materials to move through multiple life cycles without compromising industrial applicability or performance.
CIRCULAR LOGIC Bio-based polymers gain relevance when circularity is engineered into production systems, enabling materials to move through multiple life cycles without compromising industrial applicability or performance. ITMA Services

Scaling Innovation across New Applications: Noosa

Another Start-Up Valley participant, Noosa, is advancing bio-based circular PLA (polylactic acid) fibres through its patented recycling process.

“We had an amazing first experience at ITMA 2023 and were very impressed by the number of visitors from across the globe,” says Noosa CEO Luna Aslan. “It created opportunities with a lot of companies in different sectors and different parts of the world. I definitely consider it as the rendezvous for the textile industry and am looking forward to being at the 2027 exhibition.”

Since its participation, Noosa has significantly scaled its production capacity to 6,000 tonnes per year and expanded its product portfolio to include staple fibres, filaments and spun yarns, as well as fabrics and end-products made from them.

The company is now developing new applications such as performance wear and alternatives to oil-based materials, further demonstrating how early exposure to industry stakeholders can support product development and market expansion.

The integration of digital processes into textile formation highlights how computational logic is reshaping creative and industrial boundaries simultaneously.
DESIGN CODE The integration of digital processes into textile formation highlights how computational logic is reshaping creative and industrial boundaries simultaneously. ITMA Services

From Industry Validation to Global Reach: WEFFAN

For many start-ups, the most immediate value of Start-Up Valley lies in direct engagement with industry players.

For WEFFAN, this translated into conversations with potential investors and manufacturing partners from around the world.

“We met many potential investors and manufacturing partners at Start-Up Valley, which led to a memorable sourcing trip to Japan,” says founder Graysha Audren. “Taking part gave us the international reach and recognition that we wouldn’t have had otherwise. The conversations are still ongoing.”

These interactions, from technical discussions with manufacturers to strategic conversations with brands, play a critical role in helping start-ups validate their technologies, refine their solutions and identify pathways to commercialisation.

WEFFAN’s 3D weaving manufacturing process has now been validated at commercial scale with the support of Kering’s Material Innovation Lab and the Balenciaga 3D woven jacket and trousers are available in select Balenciaga stores worldwide.

A Platform for Industry Connection and Growth

“For many of the companies selected for Start-Up Valley in Milan, the showcase proved far more than just an exhibition platform,” says CEMATEX President Alex Zucchi. “It provided a catalyst for partnerships, investment and industrial development that continues to shape their trajectories.

“This ongoing momentum highlights the role of ITMA not only as a marketplace for machinery, but also as a launchpad for emerging technologies and materials that will define the future of textiles.”

Looking ahead to ITMA 2027

Building on the success of ITMA 2023, the next edition of Start-Up Valley at ITMA 2027 will offer a new cohort of innovators the opportunity to engage directly with the global textile manufacturing ecosystem.

Only 20 start-ups will be selected to receive the CEMATEX Start-Up Grant, which includes:

  • A fully subsidised special design exhibition stand
  • Dedicated pavilion exposure
  • Global marketing visibility
  • Access to industry leaders across the value chain

For start-ups developing technologies in advanced materials, automation, digitalisation or sustainability, the platform provides a unique opportunity to gain industry validation, form partnerships and accelerate growth.

Don’t miss your chance to present your game-changing solutions on the world’s largest textile and garment technology platform.

Apply for Start-Up Valley at ITMA 2027.

Innovation to Industry
  • Early-stage companies gained direct access to global manufacturers, enabling faster validation of technologies within real production environments.
  • Participation facilitated engagement with brands, investors, and technology partners, compressing traditional development timelines significantly.
  • Exposure at ITMA created pathways from prototype testing to commercial deployment, reducing reliance on prolonged sampling cycles.
Scaling Trajectories
  • TreeToTextile advanced with a €35 million demonstration plant, producing 1,500 tonnes annually at its initial operational stage.
  • Noosa expanded capacity to 6,000 tonnes per year, diversifying into fibres, yarns, fabrics, and end-use applications.
  • WEFFAN’s technology achieved validation through commercial-scale 3D weaving, supported by established luxury industry partners.
 
 
Dated posted: 31 March 2026 Last modified: 31 March 2026
 
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