Except Big Players, Most Indian Businesses Want Ready-to-Use Products than Invest in R&D

With the market for functional clothing forecast to reach $244.6 billion by 2025, driven to a large extent by the COVID-19 pandemic, the upcoming International Conference on Functional Textiles and Clothing (FTC) scheduled for 10 February 2023 is expected to see presentation of some pathbreaking research. This edition of the meet will focus on recycling and circularity challenges in design, manufacturing and supply chain in this category. Prof Sanjay Gupta, Vice-Chancellor of the World University of Design (WUD), under the aegis of which the conference is being held, talks to texfash.com.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Research labs, design and marketing teams, and brands need to collaborate to convert concepts into a marketable product.
  • Industries get an opportunity to interact directly with researchers at the FTC meet.
Scientific and technological developments bring in new materials, new manufacturing techniques, and new capabilities. Each of these, in turn, would have to be translated into newer products.
Design Innovations Scientific and technological developments bring in new materials, new manufacturing techniques, and new capabilities. Each of these, in turn, would have to be translated into newer products. Luke Helgeson / Unsplash

The three-day International Conference on Functional Textiles and Clothing (FTC) to be held at the Indian Institute of Technology in New Delhi (IIT) in association with the World University of Design (WUD) will serve as a platform for leading scientists, researchers, designers and entrepreneurs to allow in-depth exchanges on latest cutting-edge scientific developments and technologies, innovations, trends, challenges and opportunities in the field of textiles and clothing.

The February 2023 event would be the third edition of the Functional Textiles and Clothing Conference (FTC). What major developments have you noticed in this area since the first conference that was organised in 2018?
In 2018, when FTC was conceived, the field of functional clothing was still in in its infancy. Some work had been initiated in limited pockets around the world. It is with a pleasant sense of surprise that one finds that the field is growing, and many more institutions are now involved in this field of research. In India, in particular, several departments are now doing serious research in this field.

A conference of this kind acts as an interface between those who make use of the FTC technology (brands/manufacturers) and those who make these happen (scientists/technologists). How does the FTC Conference make this happen?
FTC aims to bring together the government agencies, national and international researchers and students as well as companies on a common platform. In the last two editions—in 2018 and 2020—we saw people from these backgrounds connect with each other and find synergy. Industries put up stalls during FTC where they get an opportunity to interact directly with researchers.

How much do you think brands and manufacturers give importance to R&D in their organisations (especially in the context of FTC)? Do you think they are keeping pace with what's happening in the scientific world?
Most brands and manufacturers are busy with their daily challenges in manufacturing and supply schedules. Their R&D is limited to sampling and problems in production. They know, however, that it’s important for them to keep developing new products and keep incorporating new technologies to stay ahead of the competition. Many of the progressive ones, therefore, collaborate with the textile & fashion departments of various universities to make use of the inherent innovation and creative abilities of their students.

What's going to drive change in this area? Would it be demand (in terms of what brands or manufacturers ask for)? Or, would it be the scientific and technological developments that would create its own demand?
Scientific and technological developments bring in new materials, new manufacturing techniques, and new capabilities. Each of these, in turn, would have to be translated into newer products. That’s where design and innovation steps in, combining new materials and technologies with new societal demands, to create new products. Developments in conductive textiles, for example, have led to development of wearable sensors, better health & fitness monitoring, and improved competitive sportswear. The whole field is therefore demand-driven—demand for new products.

The upcoming International Conference on Functional Textiles and Clothing (FTC) aims to bring together government agencies, national and international researchers and students as also companies on a common platform. The last two editions—in 2018 and 2020—saw people from these backgrounds connect with each other and find synergy.
Synergising The upcoming International Conference on Functional Textiles and Clothing (FTC) aims to bring together government agencies, national and international researchers and students as also companies on a common platform. The last two editions—in 2018 and 2020—saw people from these backgrounds connect with each other and find synergy. FTC 2020

Most of the fundamental work in this segment happens in universities and research institutions. But, what happens in a lab cannot always get translated into a marketable product. Do you think good ideas and concepts languish in labs because readymade or big investments cannot be found?
It is not just investment. Labs of universities and research labs usually develop a technology solution or sometimes even good ideas and concepts. They, however, need to work with a design team to convert it into a marketable product. That’s where brands have to step in to provide the investment and the market. The three in collaboration can provide the funnel which can keep feeding the supply chain. Such collaborations are well developed in western countries, but are still to find a shape in India.

There is a problem with big public events related to the textiles-apparel-fashion industry: scientists and researchers hardly ever figure as panellists and speakers. Would you agree? What is your take for or against this assertion?
This is largely true, but what is also true is that there are very few scientists and researchers who keep track of market developments and contribute to a panel comprising largely business owners or consultants. Most business owners in the country are looking for ready-to-use products and solutions which can instantly translate into profits for them. Investment in developing is largely left to big business houses.

The FTC Conference website lists as many as 24 topics for which it is calling for papers/abstracts. Which of these areas do you expect maximum traction? And, what would be the reasons for that?
The 24 topics are keywords for the field of functional clothing and textiles. They are all interconnected. Every paper can be expected to tick at least three of them. Given the current interest, protective textiles, smart materials and surface functionalisation are showing the maximum traction, which is to be expected given the post-COVID focus on these technologies and application areas. Circularity is another area, interest in which has been global in nature.

There is nothing much that I could spot on textiles, specially clothing for the differently-abled. There’s a huge chunk of the population in urgent need for different disabilities. Any thought on focusing on that segment too?
Functional clothing, by its name itself, includes clothing for people with special needs. FTC2023 will have a large number of presentations on this topic.

About World University of Design

Based out of Haryana, the World University of Design was declared by Assocham India as ‘The Most Upcoming University of the Year 2019’ and consistent winner of ‘Excellence in Design Education’ award for three consecutive years beginning 2019. Founded in 2018, WUD’s 12-acre campus has students from across 22 states of India, delivering innovation and educational excellence in business, architecture, design, visual and performing arts.

About I.I.T. Delhi

The host institute, Indian Institute of Technology-Delhi, is ranked as the number one engineering institute in India. The Department of Textile and Fibre Engineering at IITD, is a leader in textile education & research in the country.

Scientific and technological developments bring in new materials, new manufacturing techniques, and new capabilities. Each of these, in turn, would have to be translated into newer products. That’s where design and innovation steps in, combining new materials and technologies with new societal demands, to create new products.

Sanjay Gupta
Vice-Chancellor
World University of Design
Sanjay Gupta

Richa Bansal

RICHA BANSAL has more than 30 years of media industry experience, of which the last 20 years have been with leading fashion magazines in both B2B and B2C domains. Her areas of interest are traditional textiles and fabrics, retail operations, case studies, branding stories, and interview-driven features.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 12 December 2022
  • Last modified: 12 December 2022