All Indian Players Regardless of Size, Scale Should Take Part in Decarbonisation Journey

A just-published Apparel Impact Institute (AII) report named India as a crucial region for impactful decarbonisation interventions and outlined solutions for mobilising sustainable financing, stating that with the right monies, manufacturing can play a key role in meeting the country’s climate targets, especially the emissions-intensity target of 45% below 2005 levels by 2030. texfash talks to AII President Lewis Perkins to learn how India’s apparel manufacturers are pursuing decarbonisation and how it can be financed at scale.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Planning is on to develop a sustainable financing training and capacity-building programme, set to roll out in 2025, which will target suppliers in the greatest need of financing.
  • Facilities in West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana, Karnataka and others have significant options to tap into funding available.
  • While the financing is available, it is up to the facilities, and potential support by state entities to ensure uptake of these resources.
Significant investment in renewable energy and energy efficiency interventions are required to reduce the absolute emissions of the fashion industry by 50% by 2030, the target set forth by the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change, which is operated under the United Nations Climate Change Secretariat. The fourth largest exporter and one of the biggest consumers of textiles and apparel, India has immense potential to lead decarbonisation interventions in the sector.
Mission Decarbonisation Significant investment in renewable energy and energy efficiency interventions are required to reduce the absolute emissions of the fashion industry by 50% by 2030, the target set forth by the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change, which is operated under the United Nations Climate Change Secretariat. Representing 13% of total industrial output, India represents one of the apparel and footwear industry’s most important frontiers for decarbonisation to keep global warming within the necessary 1.5°C range. Sharath G / pexels

The fourth largest exporter and one of the biggest consumers of textiles and apparel, India has immense potential to lead decarbonisation interventions in the sector, home as it is to a rapidly growing market for energy efficiency and renewable energy.

Representing 13% of total industrial output, India represents one of the apparel and footwear industry’s most important frontiers for decarbonisation to keep global warming within the necessary 1.5°C range.

A recent Apparel Impact Institute (AII) and Development Finance International (DFI) report with support from HSBCthat names India as a crucial region for impactful decarbonisation interventions, outlined solutions for mobilising sustainable financingstating that with the right monies manufacturing can play a key role in meeting the country’s climate targets, especially the emissions-intensity target of 45% below 2005 levels by 2030.

Significant investment in renewable energy and energy efficiency interventions are required to reduce the absolute emissions of the fashion industry by 50% by 2030, the target set forth by the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change, which is operated under the United Nations Climate Change Secretariat.

The report — Landscape and Opportunities to Finance the Decarbonization of India’s Apparel Manufacturing Sector — said that an estimated US$6.5 billion in financing is required to reduce India’s total industry emissions by 45% by 2030 through renewable energy and energy efficiency interventions.

While it identified at least US$1.3 billion in readily available financing from credit lines and revolving funding schemes, it estimated that an additional US$1.2 billion was already being developed by international financing institutions, governments, and NGOs.  So, while approximately US$2.5 billion is available, there is still a US$4 billion financing gap.

The report identifies six critical interventions, including mobilising capital with swift urgency and collaborating across the entire value chain.

texfash: With close to US$2.5 billion in financing available and upcoming, the current resources and initiatives should be tapped immediately to generate momentum in climate leadership and create case studies for green investments — Could you identify the resources and initiatives that constitute this figure?

Lewis Perkins: Kindly see below for the list of mapped financing facilities as of December 2023:

Fund Status Manager Available Funds 
for RE/EE ($M)
Rooftop Solar Guarantee for MSMEs Upcoming World Bank 377
World Bank Grid-Connected Rooftop Solar Program Active State Bank 
of India (SBI)
115
ADB Solar Rooftop Investment Program (Tranche 2) Upcoming State Bank 
of India (SBI)
90.5
KfW Credit Line for Solar PV Projects Upcoming State Bank 
of India (SBI)
76
KfW Solar Loan under Indo-German Solar Partnership (IGSP Active State Bank 
of India (SBI)
165
KFW Green and Sustainable Finance Facility Upcoming SIDBI 150
Rooftop Solar PV for MSMEs Credit Line Revolving Government Fund SIDBI 300 confirmed for 2024, 
300 per year est. 
for 3 more years 
(total 1, 200)
Energy Efficiency Loans Revolving Government Fund SIDBI TBD
Energy Efficiency Guarantees Active SIDBI 60
GCF Rooftop Solar Financing Facility Active Tata Cleantech 60
Solar Power Project Scheme Revolving Government Fund TIIC TBD
Equipment Finance Scheme Revolving Government Fund TIIC TBD
Equipment Finance Scheme –Fast Track (for large companies) Revolving Government Fund TIIC TBD
Bureau of Energy Efficiency Interest Subvention Scheme Upcoming BEE 265
Credit Guarantees for Green MSME Loans Upcoming CGTMSE and FaME TN 12

  

A huge untapped manufacturing base that by and large remains unaccounted for are the very small unorganised players in states like West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana, Karnataka etc churning out huge highly toxic quantities of both apparel and footwear. Any thoughts to address this segment, because without addressing them all moves to combat climate change will remain hogwash.
Lewis Perkins: AII and DFI efforts took a closer focus on Tamil Nadu as one of the regions with higher concentration of facilities. However, the majority of the funds and credit lines identified (e.g. SIDBI EE Loans and ADB Solar Rooftop Investment Program) are nationwide in scope, while a few are state-specific. Thus, facilities in West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana, Karnataka and others have significant options to tap into funding available. 

The report also found that some states are taking proactive steps to support an enabling environment more conducive towards decarbonisation as they are using that ambition as a comparative advantage to support local manufacturing and exports. While the financing is available, it is up to the facilities, and potential support by state entities to ensure uptake of these resources.

The report does acknowledge the above — Another major barrier is inadequate literacy and financial literacy, especially in rural areas where many manufacturers are situated. Many application processes are complicated and lengthy, adding further difficulty for applying manufacturers right from the onset. Strong hand-holding is necessary to guide them through navigating the forms and transaction processes to secure resources — how can financing agencies etc support this hand-holding?
Lewis Perkins: One of our key recommendations is to shift the risk perceptions of green investments and investments into MSMEs. High-risk perceptions play a part in shaping the terms and processes involved with accessing relevant financing. We are calling for financiers to take initiative and inform themselves of real-life cases of successful ROIs, adapt their perceptions and application/screening processes, and invest in these areas with reasonable terms for borrowers. To support this shift, we’re planning to develop a sustainable financing training and capacity-building programme, set to roll out in 2025, which will target suppliers in the greatest need of financing, using our playbook as a guide. This programme could also be extended to financial institutions to further align perceptions and processes, if required.

Again, as the report rightly points out: “There is a gap in awareness of green financing options among smaller manufacturers. This information asymmetry puts options out of reach. There is a tendency for lending institutions to favour larger, more established enterprises for their credibility. As such, they do not exert huge efforts to market their options to smaller MSMEs, which are in more need of their financing support.” — What could be the roadmap to reach the finances where required. And before that, sensitisation on the need to go green is more critical.
Lewis Perkins: Part of AII’s work is to bring together stakeholders from across the value chain—including financiers, brands, factories, government agencies, and technical experts—to engage in open discussions about the industry’s current challenges and realistic pathways forward. By convening these key players, AII aims to facilitate a space for candid conversations that bridge information gaps, encourage shared learning, and promote collaboration on financing and decarbonisation needs.

AII also heavily involves itself in thought leadership through reports, guides, podcasts, and roundtables to spread awareness of the need to go green and the cost of inaction.

Lewis Perkins
Lewis Perkins
President
Apparel Impact Institute

We are calling for financiers to take initiative and inform themselves of real-life cases of successful ROIs, adapt their perceptions and application/screening processes, and invest in these areas with reasonable terms for borrowers. To support this shift, we’re planning to develop a sustainable financing training and capacity-building programme, set to roll out in 2025, which will target suppliers in the greatest need of financing, using our playbook as a guide.

High-risk perceptions play a part in shaping the terms and processes involved with accessing relevant financing. AII is urging  financiers to take initiative and inform themselves of real-life cases of successful ROIs, adapt their perceptions and application/screening processes, and invest in these areas with reasonable terms for borrowers.
Calling financiers High-risk perceptions play a part in shaping the terms and processes involved with accessing relevant financing. AII is urging financiers to take initiative and inform themselves of real-life cases of successful ROIs, adapt their perceptions and application/screening processes, and invest in these areas with reasonable terms for borrowers. Ivan Samkov / pexels

Does AII have a prototype where such a report and its recommendations have been followed by and large and yielded success? Will be good to know of any such case study. Else, a study such as this remains just that.
Lewis Perkins: Yes, as mentioned above AII has numerous resources that document real-life outcomes of its work and various options for ways that stakeholders can get involved, all which can be easily accessed. See here for some linked examples:

  • Brand Playbook for Financing Decarbonization: Presents 12 financial strategies that brands can take up to promote decarbonisation in their supply chain and both theoretical and practical real-world applications of these strategies.
  • Nanhua Textile FinishingA Suzhou-based textile manufacturing facility that completed the AII Clean by Design (CbD) programme and achieved 70% water savings, 30% energy savings, and 30% GHG reduction.
  • GAP Inc: GAP’s history of participating in AII’s CbD programme since 2014, contributing to energy and water savings exceeding initial targets.

I quote the report again — “Based on the Pareto Principle, if there are a total of 6,500 textile and apparel facilities in India which contribute to all industrial emissions, then 1,300 facilities (representing the top 20%) account for an estimated 80% of the sector’s emissions. This is the key group to target.” — I do not have any numbers to substantiate what I am saying — but I think, it is not just the top 20%, the bottom 30% must be a riot when it comes to cutting corners to reduce costs. They make huge quantities — definitely a segment that cannot be ignored. For instance, some sensitisation and funds to help them install solar panels for their energy requirements will help cut costs.
Lewis Perkins: The effort should definitely be industry-wide. Our main message is that for greater impact to be achieved sooner, given the urgency to meet the decarbonisation goals of the sector and the planet, a targeted approach first prioritising top emitters can be applied. This by no means implies that only the top emitters should take action, rather that all players regardless of their size and scale should take part in the decarbonisation journey. Our report simply presents a methodology based on assumptions to quantify estimated impact in time based on efforts and resources available.

I am not sure if the SU.RE project is regularly active. For the moment, it seems to exist only on paper. Did you cross-check with the people you spoke to in India?
Lewis Perkins: Yes, the SU.RE project was among the active initiatives mentioned by the stakeholders we met while in India including the Ministry of Textiles and the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI). Recently (March 2024), the initiative partnered with the British Council to expand the effort and tap into expertise from Europe. Some of the activities included a UK Study Tour and a leadership roundtable discussion to design an industry roadmap.

Our main message is that for greater impact to be achieved sooner, given the urgency to meet the decarbonisation goals of the sector and the planet, a targeted approach first prioritising top emitters can be applied. This by no means implies that only the top emitters should take action, rather that all players regardless of their size and scale should take part in the decarbonisation journey.

About Apparel Impact Institute

Apparel Impact Institute (AII), a global nonprofit collective founded in 2017, is designed to catalyse climate action by funding and scaling solutions for decarbonisation, and marked to unlock a total of US$2B in blended capital, to meet the industry’s goal to halve carbon emissions by 2030.

Dedicated to identifying, funding, scaling, and measuring the apparel and footwear industry’s proven environmental impact solutions, it has built a US$250M Fashion Climate Fund to leverage a first-of-its-kind collaborative funding model between philanthropy and corporate entities.

Most recently, AII has updated its widely credited 2021 “Roadmap to Net Zero,” a report and guide calling for the system-wide collaboration needed to reduce GHG emissions in the apparel and footwear industry by 45% at minimum by 2030 and to zero by 2050.

About Development Finance International Inc

A business development advisory firm with over 30 years of experience in accelerating business and sustainability in emerging markets globally, Development Finance International Inc. (DFI) specialises in facilitating partnerships between the private sector and International Financial Institutions (IFIs) such as the World Bank Group, Asian Development Bank, and others to deliver on clients’ objectives.

It has delivered over US$10 billion in partnerships, funding, and business across sectors and has provided significant returns on investment (ROI) and socio-economic impact.

From strategy to day-to-day execution, DFI’s holistic approach centres on results delivery, long-term relationships, and multi-stakeholder success for high-impact initiatives such as funding mobilisation, supply chain development, and market entry and expansion.

India plans to reach Net Zero by 2070, far later than most other nations. Do you think a decarbonisation plan could well be a non-starter. What do you say to that?|
Lewis Perkins: Each country designed its plans and goals based on a number of considerations including existing energy access, mix, affordability, usage, and financial capabilities. The Net Zero target is a national policy-making decision. AII does not get involved in policy setting, yet rather operates in the context such policies provide. By taking action in the apparel value chain, AII and its partners hope to contribute to India and other countries to achieve their Net Zero targets.

Coming back to the Pareto Principle argument. Concentrating on the top 1,300 facilities may sound fine in terms of tackling the 80% emissions, but that also means that the remaining 4,200 facilities would be left in the lurch. If anyone needs financing to clean up facilities, it's the latter. Comments, please.
Lewis Perkins: We echo your sentiments and agree that all facilities should be included. The study’s modelling uses the assumptions at hand to quantify the need to achieve the emissions reduction targets. Given the urgency of peak emissions and neutrality, the way the industry as a whole can achieve its highest percentage reduction of emissions in the shortest amount of time is by working with the biggest emitters. Nonetheless, the whole industry and all facilities should be included in the decarbonisation journey.

India does not have a National Textile Policy. How do you think would that impact the decarbonisation plan?
Lewis Perkins: As mentioned above, AII is not a policy-making body. The primary goal of AII is to convene stakeholders and facilitate action to drive change across the whole value chain and industry.

Part of AII’s work is to bring together stakeholders from across the value chain—including financiers, brands, factories, government agencies, and technical experts—to engage in open discussions about the industry’s current challenges and realistic pathways forward.

Richa Bansal

RICHA BANSAL has more than 30 years of media industry experience, of which the last 20 years have been with leading fashion magazines in both B2B and B2C domains. Her areas of interest are traditional textiles and fabrics, retail operations, case studies, branding stories, and interview-driven features.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 14 November 2024
  • Last modified: 17 November 2024