Ultra-fast fashion sites such as Shein and Temu have surged in popularity in Australia and across the globe.
Australians are the world’s biggest fashion consumers and they are increasingly turning to these online retailers and marketplaces, which offer trendy clothing at incredibly low prices, amid the cost-of-living crisis.
These shopping sites have faced widespread criticism for worker exploitation and the use of unsustainable materials. But an equally alarming issue that’s less often discussed is the presence of harmful chemicals in some of their products.
Harmful substances, hundreds of times over legal limit
Cotton, polyester, wool, rubber: When you’re shopping for clothes or shoes, you’ve probably noticed most items are labelled with the material each item is made from. But the fibre composition disclosed on the label is only one part of the picture.
What is never disclosed on a care label is the colourant used to dye or print on a garment, or the many other chemical additives that are part of regular fabric finishes.
Some of these chemicals are used to make plastic flexible; others stop fabric from wrinkling, are used for waterproofing and stain resistance, or lurk in synthetic materials such as polyester or nylon.
These invisible parts of the clothes we wear against our skin require interrogation.
Recent investigations have revealed alarming levels of harmful chemicals in ultra-fast fashion items.
In August 2024, South Korean authorities found that some clothing items from retailer Shein, as well as online marketplaces Temu and AliExpress, contained harmful substances, including carcinogens, at levels hundreds of times over the legal limit.
Out of 144 products tested, multiple items from all three companies failed to meet legal standards. For instance, shoes from Shein were found to contain phthalates at levels 229 times above the legal limit.
While not all phthalates are carcinogenic, some are classified as possible or probable human carcinogens by the International Cancer Institute and the US Health Department. Research from the University of Vermont Cancer Center has also linked phthalates to higher incidences of specific childhood cancers.
This issue is not new. In 2022, Greenpeace Germany tested 47 products from Shein (which sells its own Shein label and others from third-parties) and found that seven (15 percent) contained hazardous chemicals exceeding EU regulatory limits.
Six of these seven products were boots or shoes. The problem items contained substances such as polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), phthalates, formaldehyde, and heavy metals like cadmium, lead, mercury, and chromium.
Long-term exposure to PAHs may lead to cancer, while cadmium is highly toxic and known to cause cancer. Lead can damage the brain, heart, kidneys and reproductive systems.
A 2021 investigation by the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC) also highlighted similar concerns. As part of that investigation, scientists found a toddler’s jacket from Shein contained nearly 20 times the amount of lead deemed safe by Health Canada. A red purse had more than five times the legal limit of lead.
Some items contained high levels of per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), which are known endocrine disruptors and are considered ‘forever chemicals’ because they do not break down in the environment.
According to Professor Miriam Diamond from the University of Toronto, PFAS can lead to various health issues, including cancer, obesity, impaired immune function, and diabetes.
