Sustainability and Functionality Now Share the Same Commercial Test for Fabrics

Global textile trade is moving through a more complex sourcing cycle, with buyers weighing cost, reliability, material performance, and sustainability together. Wilmet Shea, General Manager, Messe Frankfurt (HK), discusses how Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics reflected those pressures, from Southeast Asian buyer flows and China’s upstream strength to AI-led workflows, traceability platforms, eco-performance fabrics, and knowledge programming.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Buyer demand is moving towards natural fibres, comfort, understated style, functionality, and more credible sustainability across apparel categories.
  • China remains central to sourcing, even as mass production shifts towards Southeast Asia, Central Asia, and adjacent hubs.
  • Intertextile is positioning itself beyond transactions, using forums, displays, and zones to interpret regulation, technology, innovation, and demand.
The fair’s buyer conversations point to a market where caution has not erased the need for discovery, comparison, direct contact, and sourcing clarity.
BUYER MOOD The fair’s buyer conversations point to a market where caution has not erased the need for discovery, comparison, direct contact, and sourcing clarity. Messe Frankfurt (HK)

texfash: Intertextile Shanghai is often described as a barometer of the global textile trade. Now that the Spring Edition has concluded, what concrete signals did you pick up from buyer behaviour, sourcing conversations, or exhibitor feedback that tell us where the apparel fabrics market is actually heading in 2026?
Wilmet Shea: Some of the numbers and feedback from the recent Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics indicate the industry’s faith in the show, and industry players’ faith that in-person business will help them navigate an ever-changing economic landscape.

While the show hosted many returning international exhibitors, it also welcomed several making their debuts, with a slight increase in the overseas exhibitor total—this all demonstrates that global suppliers and service providers are still betting on the Asian and Chinese markets. On the visitor side, over 96,000 visitors from 119 countries and regions attended the show, marginally higher than the previous Spring Edition, and one indication that exhibitors’ continued faith has been well placed.

Exhibitors’ insights tell us that domestic buyers are increasingly seeking natural or sustainable fibres, and placing value on comfort, understated style, and functionality for the apparel they are designing and manufacturing. Buyers admit challenges securing orders in the current climate, but reiterate the importance of attending Intertextile Apparel to stay up to date with the latest trends and innovations.

Intertextile has long served as a meeting point between Chinese manufacturers and international buyers. Given the ongoing realignment of global supply chains, did this edition reveal anything new about China’s evolving role in textile sourcing, particularly in relation to Southeast Asia and other emerging production hubs?
Wilmet Shea: While China of course remains the world’s leading textile exporter, it is true that some other countries and regions are emerging as productions hubs, such as Southeast and Central Asia. As the world’s leading textile trade fair organiser, Messe Frankfurt has recognised the potential: the successful third edition of the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles, and Textile Technologies (VIATT 2026), and the upcoming home and apparel textile fairs in Uzbekistan, represent our confidence in these regions.

What we are finding is that some mass production is being diverted to other countries, while China is demonstrating it can lead the way in cutting-edge materials, new technology adoption and scaling. In that regard, we had very positive buyer feedback on the scale and scope of innovation on show at Intertextile Apparel this spring. For numerous international brands, apparel manufacturers, and designers, China—and this fair—remains their most important sourcing hub.

Overall, the textile industry is a truly global supply chain, with a large degree of synergy needed, and China has also demonstrated it can work with these other textile hubs. Many Southeast Asian manufacturers still depend on imported fabrics and materials from China, linking their export strength to this ongoing upstream dependency – at the fair, this was evidenced by 40% of overseas buyer delegations hailing from Southeast Asia. Meanwhile, Chinese firms have also been investing in production facilities in these high potential countries and regions.

Pre-event communications often highlight sustainability zones, functional textiles, and innovation platforms, but what stood out on the show floor this year as genuinely new or different in terms of materials, processes, or technological approaches?
Wilmet Shea: This innovative, market-driven approach was perhaps best demonstrated by the launch of Pet Boutique, a display area showcasing a range of textiles and accessories that prioritise functionality, sustainability and comfort for pets. The related Pet Forum, presented by experts from KPMG and Lenzing, gave fairgoers deeper insights into why this high-potential market is being explored by suppliers.

It was clear that new strides are being made around the textile world. In terms of standout sustainability exhibits, the algae-derived bio-leather from Germany’s PEELSPHERE generated a lot of buyer interest, as did Textile Genesis (from the Netherlands) with their all-encompassing traceability platform, while Austrian multinational Lenzing debuted Tencel Lyocell - HV100 in China, a cotton-inspired cellulose fibre that replicates an irregular natural texture.

In terms of technology, AI is gaining more prominence with each edition, and at the show we saw some Chinese companies taking this to a new level. Style3D was one of them. Not only are they are striving to bring AI into the physical world—through robotic arms for quality control, AI vision systems inspecting fabric, and robot sales assistants—they have also created a full AI fashion workflow, from AI-generated design and fabric digitisation, to 3D simulation and virtual marketing.

Functional and performance textiles remain a key draw for buyers. From what you observed at the fair, are brands and retailers still pushing primarily for technical performance, or are they now demanding a stronger integration of sustainability credentials with those functional properties?
Wilmet Shea: Sustainability is becoming a non-negotiable for many consumers and fashion brands. In the same way we have seen demand for technical performance go beyond sportswear, into casualwear and even formalwear, we have observed sustainability being integrated across categories. It’s no longer enough for a fabric to just be eco-friendly—to be truly competitive, its performance needs to match or even better that of conventional textiles. At the same time, premium functional fabrics that do not integrate sustainability are not as desirable as they once were.

Taken together, functionality and sustainability are huge market drivers, and the demand was reflected at our recent Spring Edition, where our dedicated zones for these categories, Functional Lab and Econogy Hub, both expanded. There was a strong showing of eco-performance suppliers at both zones and across the fairground. Many of these exhibitors reported strong business results, with buyers drawn to products like the nature-inspired performance of Unifi Textiles’ circular polyester; Baur Vliesstoffe’s wool-blended lavalan nonwovens for superior insulation; and Asahi Kasei’s versatile regenerated cellulose fibre Bemberg.

Over the years, Intertextile Shanghai has expanded from a fabric sourcing show into a broader industry platform with trend forums, sustainability initiatives, and knowledge programmes. How consciously are you trying to shape the fair as a thought-leadership platform rather than simply a marketplace?
Wilmet Shea: As organisers, expanding the show from just a sourcing platform into a true industry hub is something we have been working towards consistently. In the past, sourcing in China was very much price-driven, and while that still plays a large part, there is much more for both buyers and exhibitors to understand in the modern industry landscape. Therefore, the fringe programme, from the integrated displays to the insightful seminars, plays an important role at each edition of Intertextile Apparel.

This spring, over 4,500 participants joined 50 seminars, forums, and product presentations. At the same time, nearly 1,500 samples were displayed at the Intertextile Directions Trend Forum, the Econogy Hub Display Area, the new Pet Boutique, and The CUBE at Functional Lab—for buyers to quickly compare on-trend, cutting-edge fabrics, and easily find the relevant exhibitors. At Econogy Hub and Functional Lab, we have integrated display areas and seminar spaces with the zones themselves, a format that has been well received by fairgoers.

We have also been curating on-topic events that add meaningful value and categorising them to enhance relevance. The four themes of the fringe programme—and the fair itself—are Fashion Forward, Performance Textiles, Sustainability, and Textile Future, giving vital platforms to thought leaders covering trends, functionality, market insights and regulations, innovation, AI and digitalisation, and more. The standout sustainability event this spring was the Econogy Forum, where Redress moderated an expert-led discussion on waste being the new resource redefining fashion, and we look forward to making this type of forum a regular fixture.

Wilmet Shea
Wilmet Shea
General Manager
Messe Frankfurt (HK)

Overall, the textile industry is a truly global supply chain, with a large degree of synergy needed, and China has also demonstrated it can work with these other textile hubs. Many Southeast Asian manufacturers still depend on imported fabrics and materials from China, linking their export strength to this ongoing upstream dependency—at the fair, this was evidenced by 40% of overseas buyer delegations hailing from Southeast Asia.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
Dated posted: 20 April 2026 Last modified: 20 April 2026