Sustainability and conservation benefit sit at the heart of the case made for crocodile, python and ostrich products in fashion. Regulators allow harvest and farming on the premise that populations remain stable or protected. But when authorities were asked for independent evidence showing that trade improves outcomes for wild populations, little was produced beyond procedural replies. That gap between claim and proof is the problem this study puts under the lens.
The scale of the market makes that tension consequential. Trade in wildlife-derived fashion products may involve hundreds of millions of animals annually and may be worth approximately $2.5 bn. Within that economic footprint, industry narratives frame commercial utilisation as compatible with species conservation. Controlled harvest, captive breeding and farming are presented as structured systems that incentivise protection and reduce pressure on wild populations.
The rapid evidence assessment underlying this analysis sought to test those assertions at the regulatory level. Governments and the CITES Secretariat were asked to provide five consecutive years of independent, non-trade-generated data held on file that would substantiate permissive trade positions. Of 15 government departments contacted, only three supplied any response containing data, and CITES acknowledged receipt of the questionnaire without providing substantive supporting material. No relevant independent evidence was produced to verify that trade in the four target species demonstrably benefits conservation outcomes.
The findings are set out in a study by Clifford Warwick and Catrina Steedman of the Emergent Disease Foundation in London, Phillip Arena of Murdoch University in Australia, and Rachel Grant of London South Bank University. Published recently in Frontiers in Conservation Science, the paper, ‘Beneath the skin of conservation claims by the wildlife fashion industry: a rapid evidence assessment, brief survey, & novelty stress-test on objectivity of data used by key regulatory sectors concerning four example species’, details the survey of 15 governments and the CITES Secretariat.
This does not prove the trade is inherently harmful. It does show how easily conservation benefit is asserted without independent documentation being put on the table. Conservation benefit is treated as a working premise in policy, yet the independent record offered to support it is thin. Where exploitation is authorised on the premise of sustainability, the burden rests on regulators to demonstrate that premise with transparent, independent data. Without it, the conservation case for wildlife fashion remains asserted rather than empirically proven.