Ground Circularity / Denim Deal / PART II Feature

Wireframe: A Twin Deal: Making of Circular Denim

Europe Turns Circular Fashion Data Into A Fully Working Industry Model

Europe’s denim industry has put data where its mouth is. A new regional collection helmed by Denim Deal shows that traceability, accountability, and aesthetics can function as one production system. By hard-coding transparency into every stage of design and manufacture, European mills have turned circularity from experiment into standard practice across their factory floors.

Subir Ghosh

5 November 2025

10 minutes

Long Story, Cut Short

Europe’s mills and tech partners have built a measurable circular system, using traceability data as a new industrial discipline.
Shared digital frameworks replaced marketing slogans with verifiable results, embedding accountability in everyday denim production processes.
Circular design now operates as routine practice, not rhetoric, across Europe’s most advanced denim manufacturing clusters.

Collaboration under the Denim Deal turned Europe into a laboratory for responsible production, proving that circular practices could coexist with industrial scale and commercial discipline.

Collaborative Effort Collaboration under the Denim Deal turned Europe into a laboratory for responsible production, proving that circular practices could coexist with industrial scale and commercial discipline. Denim Deal

NOTE: This is the second in a three-part series on the new Denim Deal collection. The first part appeared on Monday and the concluding one will be published on Friday.

Europe, broadly, was always going to be the proving ground. The region’s mills and technology providers had already supplied the intellectual scaffolding for the Denim Deal, and its manufacturing culture offered the stability needed to translate concept into procedure. The EMEA Collection was therefore less a showcase of garments and more a controlled experiment—one that tested how far circular practice could be embedded within the established logic of European industry.

The pragmatic bent of mind at the Denim Deal laid the foundation for the project. This is laid threadbare by Laura Vicaria, Programme Director: “The Denim Deal is very pragmatic and fluid. With everything we do, we ensure to remain business oriented and linked to the reality of business. That is how the idea of the collection came to be; we want to simplify the decision of choosing.” Europe would act as the technical anchor before the concept travelled elsewhere. “Collaboration is what we do. We do our best to showcase our members,” she adds.

The region’s collective confidence owed much to PDNA, which designed the digital passport underpinning every pair of jeans. Tony Tonnaer, PDNA’s founder, had long warned that transparency gaps were the industry’s blind spot. “Denim production seems quite simple. After all, how complicated can the production process of a jeans be? Apparently quite difficult, as most brands and retailers have no further insight in the supplier chain beyond Tier 2 and are only aware of who makes the fabric, garment and trims. There is no insight further down the supply chain up to the raw materials.” His candour frames the challenge the EMEA Hub set out to resolve.

Across the consortium, partners internalised that critique. Mills and designers committed to trace every transaction, certify every bale, and make the digital layer as routine as quality control. PDNA’s system soon became a shared language: spinners uploaded data automatically; laundries logged wash recipes; brands could read the full chain without mediation. Transparency turned from an obligation into a working habit.

PDNA’s intent is not to make software fashionable but to make responsibility measurable, treating verification as arithmetic rather than storytelling. Tonnaer regards data as the new quality control—every verified entry as a promise kept. Where others sought marketing stories, PDNA sought arithmetic, showing that sustainability could be proven by evidence rather than persuasion. It was this precision that persuaded European partners that circularity was not ideology but method.

By the time the EMEA prototypes reached Amsterdam, the EMEA Hub had done more than deliver garments. It had produced a repeatable workflow that merged ethics with efficiency. The region’s contribution was not simply technological; it was cultural—a demonstration that accountability could be engineered into daily practice. The experiment proved that in Europe, circularity no longer needed evangelists; it had become part of the machinery itself.

Vicaria describes this transformation as Europe’s defining strength—its ability to convert ideals into infrastructure. For her, the collection’s value lay not in innovation but in repetition: in making responsible production ordinary. She has consistently framed this as the point where circularity stops being a project and becomes production. Within months, what had started as an experiment became a management discipline that travelled from design tables to factory floors.

Making Numbers the New Craft

In the European hub, information ceased to be an accessory and became a production material. What began as a requirement for transparency evolved into a management culture where data was treated with the same precision as thread count or colour match. The partners discovered that when numbers sit beside pattern books, accountability turns practical.

PDNA’s digital passport architecture sealed this logic. Tonnaer had described its purpose bluntly: “It is set up as a compliance tool, but I see it more as a communication tool first with a benefit that also makes a brand or supplier compliant. To make a difference in this competitive denim market, it is key to show your USP, and transparency is a good and easy way to do this.”

Sharabati used that framework to benchmark progress across its mills. “By aggregating and analysing data from multiple mills, the Denim Deal enables us to see where we stand in relation to others and identify opportunities for improvement. This collective reporting process fosters a sense of shared progress and motivates all participants to perform better,” says Dilek Erik. Data was no longer a reporting burden but a management mirror—one that revealed weakness before it became waste.

Yucel Bayram adds the Kipas dimension: “Kipas contributed by implementing robust data collection systems that track raw material sources, recyclability, and the lifecycle impacts of our denim products. Our focus has been on establishing a reliable and transparent supply chain. The initiative’s emphasis on traceability and measurable circularity aligns with our approach to ensuring supply chain integrity. By integrating advanced technology and fostering cross-sector collaboration, we ensure that our sustainability data is accurate, verifiable, and aligned with our commercial objectives. This demonstrates that sustainable practices, as promoted by the Denim Deal, can successfully coexist with and enhance a profitable, market-driven business model.”

Kipas reinforced that philosophy by embedding measurement into daily operations. “Joining the Denim Deal has strengthened our commitment to a holistic sustainability approach. Leveraging our integrated manufacturing facilities and advanced measurement systems, we prioritise traceability, material recyclability, circularity, and responsible resource utilisation throughout our design and production processes. This collaboration has further highlighted the vital importance of transparency and data-driven decisionmaking, inspiring us to align every step of our operations with the shared vision of fostering a more sustainable and responsible denim industry on a global scale.”

Data was no longer kept in spreadsheets—it moved onto the factory floor as routine feedback for operators and technicians.

The results changed relationships as much as processes. Mills began to compare metrics openly, learning from one another’s efficiencies instead of guarding secrets. Designers started to read dashboards as fluently as trend forecasts. What had once been compliance paperwork became a shared competitive currency. Transparency matured into a form of peer-driven discipline that rewarded accuracy over aspiration.

Vicaria watched the transformation with satisfaction. To her, it proved that Europe’s advantage lay not in technology but in temperament. “Both technology providers did an outstanding job. Data is always the trickiest element of it. At the Denim Deal we also want to begin developing a framework for our members to use. Potentially something we can showcase in 2026.” She saw the framework not as software but as behaviour—a codified rhythm that made circularity predictable.

By the close of the EMEA phase, data had become Europe’s new craftsmanship. Precision replaced persuasion; dashboards replaced declarations. The continent that once defined quality through feel and finish was learning to define it through verified evidence. In Europe’s denim mills, numbers had finally acquired texture.

The EMEA Collection became Europe’s test bench for circularity—where mills, designers, and technologists transformed sustainability from experiment to daily method across the continent’s denim industry. Denim Deal

The Seamless Language of Design

If the EMEA Collection had one visible quality from its predecessors, it was coherence. The garments looked unified not because of identical fabrics or cuts but because every element—fibre, finish, button and wash—obeyed the same logic. The European partners had learned that circular design was less about experimentation and more about alignment. What mattered was integration: the ability of creative and industrial instincts to speak the same language.

At the centre of this balance was Ereks Blue Matters. Its studio refused to treat sustainability as a constraint on aesthetics. Eylem Temizkan expresses this succinctly: “Blue Matters was founded on the belief that sustainability and creativity are not opposing forces—they elevate each other. Our design team starts with circular principles such as mono-material design, easy disassembly, and recyclability, and then layers in contemporary aesthetics, trend insights, and craftsmanship.” That conviction guided how the EMEA garments were conceived—responsibility woven directly into design, not appended to it.

At the Sharabati recycling facility, says Erik, “we primarily process production waste generated by our denim mill. However, in line with customer demand, we also produce post-consumer recycled yarns. Since importing used garments into Egypt is prohibited and there is no organised system for local garment collection, we import post-consumer cotton fibres from Turkey and convert them into yarns at our factory. Driven by our own sustainability goals—and those of our major brand partners—our collections have long included a wide variety of fabrics made with recycled yarns (pre-consumer, post-consumer, white, and coloured). All fabrics containing 20% to 60% recycled content are fully GRS-certified.”

The challenge lay in keeping that purity intact as the ideas left the studio and entered the mill. Kipas brought technical precision to the creative ambition, translating aesthetic intent into reproducible processes. Its closed-loop measurement system meant that each designer’s choice—whether a rinse or a tone—was instantly translated into traceable resource data. Bayram’s emphasis on “advanced measurement systems” turned into real-time dialogue between design desks and dye vats, ensuring that beauty and accountability developed together rather than in sequence.

And at Ereks, “‘fully integrated green production’ refers to managing the entire denim creation process—from fibre to final garment—within a transparent, responsible framework. While we don’t weave fabrics ourselves, we carefully select or co-develop fabrics that align with our sustainability principles, prioritising recycled, regenerative, or low-impact fiber compositions,” says Temizkan.

The advantage that Ereks held lay in the level of guidance “we provide to our partners and clients. As an expert and trusted advisor, Ereks is deeply involved in fabric choice, design development, and washing innovation—ensuring that every stage reflects both aesthetic and environmental integrity. This close integration allows us to influence sustainable decisions across the full value chain, maintaining control over impact without compromising creativity or quality.” For Ereks, it all begins with the right fabric composition. “When you start with the right material, design the right model without forcing it, and insist on sustainable washing recipes, there is no reason why the result shouldn’t be both creative and circular. The key is in maintaining balance—letting design and responsibility evolve together naturally,” underlines Temizkan.

Sharabati added another layer of discipline. By pooling data from multiple sites, it could compare outcomes across facilities and standardise results without suppressing creativity. Dilek Erik had described this as “a sense of shared progress,” and in practice it meant that one mill’s success in lowering water intensity could become another’s baseline. Within months, design decisions were being evaluated not only on visual merit but on quantitative performance.

Then came the hardware—the smallest pieces carrying the largest symbolism. Thibault Greuza’s team at Dorlet took on the problem of longevity at the level of a single button. “First, it is part of the Dorlet DNA to be innovative and push the boundaries for sustainable fashion. So, we investigated a lot of all our processes to offer solutions to the market. Our buttons are a key for the recycling process; so, it was obvious for us to design an iconic piece easy to remove, reuse and recycle such as The Diabolo.” And to be efficient and scalable, “our innovation needed to be simple. Thus, our Diabolo button is easy to attach by adding only a second buttonhole on the jeans—simplicity was our biggest engineering challenge and our greatest strength.”

Denim Deal considered these micro-level innovations essential to the credibility of the whole. To Vicaria, the EMEA partners demonstrated that circular design succeeds only when every participant, regardless of scale, treats their component as mission-critical. “The credit needs to be given to our member mills and manufacturers. They have top notch fabrics, the technology to apply lower chemical and water consuming washes, and of course designers creating denim that represents the latest trends. Again, showcasing the power of collaboration. It’s about bringing together all of these strengths for a final solution.”

The collection wore that philosophy lightly. Nothing about it was forced or experimental. Its success lay precisely in that effortlessness: proof that circular design had moved beyond novelty to become part of Europe’s manufacturing grammar. Every seam, every stitch, every button represented the same proposition—that integration, not invention, is what makes sustainability endure.

The unveiling in Amsterdam would confirm just that. What had begun as collaboration in data and design was about to mature into Europe’s full-scale proof of concept.

Data Becomes Discipline

European mills transformed traceability data into a management tool, applying numbers with the same rigour as quality checks.
PDNA’s digital passport system established a common database where suppliers, laundries, and brands uploaded verifiable production metrics.
The approach replaced marketing slogans with measurable outcomes, proving sustainability could be evidenced through shared transparency.
Comparing results publicly encouraged peer learning and accountability, accelerating best practices among participating manufacturers.
The exercise demonstrated that data precision and design creativity can operate simultaneously without slowing manufacturing efficiency.

Design in Alignment

Ereks Blue Matters showcased that sustainable design and creative direction reinforce, rather than limit, each other.
Sharabati Denim’s Egyptian facility processed both pre- and post-consumer waste under certified, closed-loop recycling conditions.
Kipas Textiles embedded lifecycle measurement into everyday routines, capturing resource use alongside aesthetic development decisions.
Dorlet’s removable Diabolo button illustrated that design-for-disassembly can be economical and mass-producible.
Collectively, these innovations turned Europe’s circular ideals into functional garments, ready for export and retail display.

From Workshop to Working Model

When the EMEA Collection was unveiled, it felt less like a debut and more like a confirmation. The EMEA Hub had not reinvented circularity; it had merely operationalised it. What the partners demonstrated was that accountability could run quietly beneath design, production and sales without disrupting any of them. The collection’s calm professionalism—its refusal to appear experimental—was precisely what made it persuasive.

The phase, according to Vicaria, represented the moment when theory finally met endurance. “We will be showcasing this collection again at upcoming events in Lille, France on 2–4 December, where brands will be specifically invited to look at the collection, and encouraged to ‘plug and play’ or be inspired by what it represents. We are also learning as we go; so, every time we will create a new collection, and see how the industry reacts. But now there are no more excuses. Brands looking for the next thing—a story about POCR cotton with fantastic designs, fabrics and traceability—they’ll know to come to the Denim Deal.” Her message to the industry was unmistakable: circularity was no longer an experiment; it was an invitation.

The European partners had built more than a set of products—they had constructed a process template. PDNA’s passport proved that data could travel the entire supply chain without distortion. Kipas and Sharabati showed that recycled inputs could meet commercial quality and consistency. Ereks demonstrated that design could be expressive and responsible at once. Dorlet’s Diabolo button anchored it all with mechanical integrity. Together they formed a replicable choreography where verification and aesthetics danced in sync.

Not that there is no scope for improvement. Erik has a point: “If the Denim Deal could help develop and implement policies for the collection, organisation, and transfer of post-consumer textiles, it would significantly increase the share of post-consumer recycled content in regional production.”

And next step may not be expansion but refinement. “We have asked all of our members to set targets. In early 2026, we will start to collect the first round of data to see where we stand in terms of volumes and actual performance. After that we will do this every year, and push where needed based on data results.” The process, Vicaria explains, would allow the organisation to measure adoption rather than intention—a subtle but transformative shift in industry accountability.

It has helped too in the way the players have worked. Kipas has long believed that collaboration is more crucial than ever in today’s evolving industry landscape. Initiatives like the Denim Deal foster industry-wide cooperation and drive technological advancements, enabling Turkish brands to take a leading role in sustainable innovation and ensure compliance with future regulations. Here’s what Bayram chips in: “With our holistic and transparent approach—from responsible material sourcing and advanced technological investments to end-to-end measurement and sharing of every production step—we are actively preparing ourselves and the industry for the upcoming regulatory changes. These collective efforts help Turkish manufacturers not only adapt to new standards but also position themselves as pioneers in sustainable denim production on a global scale.”

That ambition reflected Europe’s temperament: cautious, methodical, and built for longevity. Instead of declaring victory, the EMEA network focused on codifying its learnings so that replication elsewhere would require adaptation, not reinvention. The idea was to create a template resilient enough to survive new geographies and future regulations.

The EMEA Hub’s contribution was therefore not merely aesthetic or technical; it was procedural. The region has shown that circular fashion could function within commercial constraints and still retain credibility. In doing so, it turned the Denim Deal from a campaign into a working model.

The Denim Deal’s European partners demonstrated that data can be craftsmanship—where verified numbers, not slogans, define quality and responsibility in modern denim manufacturing. Denim Deal

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

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