Companies that Consider Sustainability an Expense Will Not Survive

Established in 1951, Bossa is one of the largest integrated textile corporations of Turkey with its facility in Adana. General Manager Onur Duru talks about Bossa's production philoshophy and the drivers that are changing the denim sector.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Bossa has increased the use of recycled fibres in the raw material blend required for denim fabric.
  • Bossa partners with FibreTrace to provide trust, transparency and traceability in the industry. The D-Chronicles concept is the future.
  • Bossa is developing a zero waste lifecycle to close the loop.
Recycling, reducing and saving are critical to the environment. It is a staple and sustainable system in which natural resources are renewed and wastes never accumulate—closed loop.  Bossa is developing a zero waste lifecycle to close the loop.
CLOSING THE LOOP Recycling, reducing and saving are critical to the environment. It is a staple and sustainable system in which natural resources are renewed and wastes never accumulate—closed loop.  Bossa is developing a zero waste lifecycle to close the loop. Bossa Denim

How did the COVID-19 pandemic affect your company? How did you manage both ends of your supply chain: buyers as well as suppliers? How did you manage your financial issues? Could you elaborate?
Once again we saw that opportunities can arise from crises. As everything is teamwork—we saw once again how important our employees and agents are. We saw the importance of marketing, online presentation and digital transformation. Due to the pandemic, we see that human behaviour changes and soft and comfortable products come to the fore. At Bossa, we have products that contribute to these trends. During this period, we were in constant communication with our customers. We have also seen the importance and effect of mutual trust, understanding, and working shoulder to shoulder.

There has been a 100% increase in the price of cotton and indigo. There was a 40% increase in fabric cost, but the market was able to get 20% of it.  Our prices have increased due to raw material and energy hikes. In case of the latter, efficiency has become the most important factor to overcome the issue. We do many projects to increase our efficiency, and we try to protect both ourselves and our customers from high prices.

How significant is Denim PV for you? What are you looking forward to? And what new are you offering at Denim PV? What are the challenges and changes that you expect to see in denim sourcing (both as fabrics / finished products)?
Denim by PV is very special for the denim industry. We will show our AW23-24 collection in Berlin.

In the textiles world, production mentality and environmental concepts are rapidly changing and developing. Some 10–15 years ago, the use of recycled fibres in cotton yarn production was not preferred. However, due to the rising environmental awareness and the rapidly consumed natural resources worldwide, the use of recycled fibres is increasing. As a pioneer of change for five years, Bossa has increased the use of recycled fibres in the raw material blend required for denim fabric. Bossa's R&D department has done a lot of work to produce first class yarn from recycled fibres . As a result—starting from 2019—Bossa has begun to use all of its textile waste in its blend by opening or cleaning them. We believe that this path, which Bossa set out with the zero waste principle, will inspire other stakeholders in the denim industry and that the companies making all denim production in the medium term will adopt the zero waste principle.

Bossa, which has transparently explained its production figures for the last three years with the ‘Towards Zero Waste’ booklet, will continue to report its production values. Our main target in this collection is Towards Zero Waste. In line with this goal, recycled cotton is used in many of our products.

When we start every Bossa denim collection, we think about cultural trends and influences. We want to fit our denims in the consumer’s movements and directions. So, we create frames covering the different aspects of the denim/jeans trends. We fill these frames with our ideas, our innovations.

This season we have divided the collection into three groups:

  • Outdoor Lıvıng: It is all about reconciling with planet earth and enjoying its outdoor wonders with a sustainable approach and weather proof fabrications that can be functional  as well as comfortable.  The healing power of fresh and pure air as an escapism from the routinary world. Green is beautiful!
  • Easy Does It: Effortless and ease is a common denominator for the season to come.  Staying true to loose cuts and true blue washes,  Easy Does It, expresses the sophisticated side of casual dressing  while respecting the codes of elegance and quality.  A gender fluid aesthetic that makes an easy wardrobe share with your partner.  His and Hers to its maximum exponent!   
  • Deconstructed Delıght: Upcycling denim into reconstructing exciting new silhouettes for a modern take in casualwear. Tailoring made easier thanks to the patched detailing and reconstructed garments.  An architectural and intellectual approach to an ancestral Japanese technique.  It is time to Frankenstein your closet!

When we start every Bossa denim collection, we think about cultural trends and influences. We want to fit our denims in the consumer’s movements and directions. So, we create frames covering the different aspects of the denim/jeans trends. We fill these frames with our ideas, our innovations.

Onur Duru
General Manager
Bossa Denim
Onur Duru

The new EU Textiles Strategy has been announced. How is it going to affect you? What specific steps are you taking to ensure that you adhere to the new regulations that have already come in, and the ones that are likely to take shape in the near future?
Brands are looking for sustainable and—especially—recycled products. And many brands are committed to making their products sustainable and/or recyclable in certain proportions. We are happy to be the first supplier of many brands in this regard.

Companies that consider sustainability as an expense will not be able to sustain themselves. Policies such as European Green Deal will also force companies to work in this direction.

Sustainability is not new for us. Bossa launched its first RE-SET collection in 2006. The usage of organic cotton and natural dyestuff has been taken to the next level with this collection. Every year a valuable addition has been made to it. Today, Bossa offers a wide range of products with natural dyestuff, recycled cotton, recycled PET, organic cotton, natural fibres (i.e. linen, hemp, wool), BCI cotton, Cotton Made in Africa, GMO-free Turkish cotton, naturally coloured cotton. Blending recycled cotton with virgin cotton is really important and is not so easy. We have made investments in producing high quality recycled denims.

At Bossa, we are developing a zero waste lifecycle to close the loop. Starting from 2019, we have begun to use all our textile waste in our blend by opening or cleaning them.  

And also social responsibility—it is at the hearth of what we do. We believe it is our duty to be socially responsible. Bossa’s Human Resources Policy was founded on modernity, equal opportunities and human rights. We believe that sustainability needs transparency. As Bossa we have transparently explained our production figures for the last three years with the ‘Towards Zero Waste’ booklet.  

The future is transparent—where all actors of a supply chain can be accountable for the information committed to the chain of custody, and the incentive for transparency is based on a trust count or rating system that allows others to make decisions based on peer reviews. In textiles/fashion—and practically every other industry—blockchain has transformative potential for making the supply chain transparent.

The D-Chronicles concept is designed by Bossa and FibreTrace collaboration. The concept assigned a blockchain-based ID, which start to follow it from farm to shelf and chronicling its history by secure blockchain. Thanks to FibreTrace technology, we embed an ID which will stay forever inside of the products and tracking every step from raw materials through the supply chain right up to the finished garment and to the shelves in the stores, consumers can view a map of the clothing’s movement through the entire manufacturing and distribution process—viewing every step of a garment’s journey to a consumer. Bossa partners with FibreTrace to provide trust, transparency and traceability in the industry. The D-Chronicles concept is the future.

We are also working with companies to trace with spraying system. We are always open to collaborate with trace companies and also with brands.

As a denim company, what kind of information or knowledge do you seek to help you source/manufacture earth-friendly denim? What is the focus on sustainability in your company? What steps do you take at the B2B level and the retail point to help the consumer make an informed ‘sustainable’ choice?
Using sustainable materials like organic cotton, tencel, modal, Refibra, recycle cotton, Ecovero, etc, is a very important sustainable keypoint that we focus on. We are always searching for new sustainable materials and using them as a raw material in our articles.

We acknowledge that it is important to reduce, reuse and recycle in order not to compromise the ability of the future generations to meet their own needs.  Bossa has been actively involved in the protection and preservation of the environment since its startup.

  • “We care about future”
  • “We aim to raise the level of awareness on environmental issues”
  • “We do our part”

Adopting the following procedures are aimed at reducing our environmental impact: re-usage, sustainable materials, energy efficiency, water saving, process engineering, collaboration, co-creation, certification and ecological dyeing.

Recycling, reducing and saving are critical to the environment. It is a staple and sustainable system in which natural resources are renewed and wastes never accumulate—closed loop.  At Bossa, we are developing a zero waste lifecycle to close the loop.

Currently, the strongest demand from brands is sustainable and—especially—recycled products. We are happy to be the first supplier to many brands in this regard. We also have investments related to this subject. We will increase our capacity and we will add a recycling process to our production.

Bossa has increased the use of recycled fibres in the raw material blend required for denim fabric. Its R&D department has done a lot of work to produce first class yarn from recycled fibres. As a result—starting from 2019—Bossa has begun to use all of its textile waste in its blend by opening or cleaning them. This zero waste principle, Boss hopes, will inspire other stakeholders in the denim industry as also the companies making all denim production in the medium term to adopt the zero waste principle.
PIONEER OF CHANGE Bossa has increased the use of recycled fibres in the raw material blend required for denim fabric. Its R&D department has done a lot of work to produce first class yarn from recycled fibres. As a result—starting from 2019—Bossa has begun to use all of its textile waste in its blend by opening or cleaning them. This zero waste principle, Boss hopes, will inspire other stakeholders in the denim industry as also the companies making all denim production in the medium term to adopt the zero waste principle. Bossa Denim

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 18 May 2022
  • Last modified: 18 May 2022