Beyond the Salon: Dutch Fibre Start-Up Shows Fashion Industry How to Let the Hair Down

texfash.com: Textile fibres from human hair and that too traceable and durable. How did the idea strike you?
Zsofia Kollar: During the COVID-19 pandemic, the idea of creating something local but with a global impact came to mind. As a designer, I realised that if we want to design with the planet and people in mind, we need to go back to the materials. If we use a material that does not exploit, we can apply any design principle with care. Hair has always been a fascinating material to me because, while it is on our heads, it is precious to us, but once it is cut, it becomes a neglected material. I became interested in how we could turn this waste into value and treat it as a viable material. After all, we all cut our hair every now and then, and it is the same keratin fibre as wool. So why not treat it as a textile fibre? This curiosity sparked my research into what and how we can use this material.

How much time did it take from idea to inception and market? How easy or difficult was the journey? 
Zsofia Kollar: It has been a journey, and there is still a long way to go to reach the goals my team and I have set. It was not easy in the beginning; people did not believe we could change the perception of this material. We had to prove a lot, both from a technological and psychological standpoint. The idea was born around late 2021 to early 2022 and was followed by extensive investigation, experiments, and learning about the industry. I conducted hands-on research with hair salons, multiple surveys with consumers and producers, and, of course, gathered a team.

It is not an easy journey, but along this path, we have received a lot of support and enthusiasm, which motivates us to move forward. Once someone understands the environmental and economic impact we can create, they truly fall in love with the idea.

Where is the story now? How receptive has the market been? How difficult or easy was it to get the first clients on board?
Zsofia Kollar: Like everything in life, things need to find their right place and time, and we have to learn about our customers as well. We have received a lot of positive reactions from multiple brands and have a strong group of early adopters who are eagerly waiting to buy our product. Currently, we are setting up our pilots and are ready to go commercial with some of our materials.

Tell me about the supply chain. How does it work? How do you make it traceable?
Zsofia Kollar: We know the source of our material very well. Since the transport is traceable, we can monitor the original location of each shipment. Every part of our logistics is tracked and measured, providing us with a fully transparent supply chain.

This transparency is not only due to our smart logistics system but also because of blockchain technology. While consumers may not trace a metre of fabric back to a specific hair salon, this data is used for internal audits and documentation for our partners, ensuring our suppliers can verify the ethical aspects of our supply chain.

As compared to other alternative materials, what is the USP of your product? Any innovations in the works?
Zsofia Kollar: Our products are designed to last, providing enduring value and durability. We are committed to guilt and cruelty-free practices, ensuring no harm comes to animals or the environment, which gives you peace of mind with every purchase. By upcycling discarded hair into valuable materials, we create value from waste, promoting sustainability and reducing environmental impact.

Our supply chain is 100% traceable and transparent, enabled by blockchain technology, allowing us to track each material's journey from source to product and ensure ethical sourcing.

Utilising keratin fibre, the same protein found in wool, we produce innovative and sustainable textile products. These materials are naturally hypoallergenic, making them safe for sensitive skin. Our commitment to a plastic-free production process helps reduce environmental pollution. Additionally, the inherent antibacterial properties of keratin fibres ensure our products remain fresh and hygienic. Our materials also provide excellent thermal insulation and moisture regulation, keeping you comfortable in various weather conditions.

There is always that apprehension that the making-processing of many alternative materials does include the use of harmful chemicals. What about your product?
Zsofia Kollar: Our processing is based on the principles of green chemistry, ensuring that we do not use any toxic materials. We adhere to strict practices to avoid causing any harm to the environment or the people involved in the production process.

What about volumes? For any product to be successful, volume is a must so that it has greater acceptability. 
Zsofia Kollar: We have designed our technology to be a retrofit solution for existing factories, enabling low-investment production that can expand rapidly. Additionally, there is a significant amount of material available from waste streams, with an estimated 2.2 billion kg wasted globally each year. Given the concentration of populations in larger cities and the availability of smart transport infrastructure, we have easy access to this material feedstock.

Which are the certifications that you have gone for? Has your product been patented?
Zsofia Kollar: We are currently in the process of scaling up our production, and part of our strategy involves obtaining certifications that ensure sustainability. We understand that certifications can be a lengthy process, especially for a start-up like ours, but we are committed to taking things step by step to achieve our goals.