After Life for Design: Exhibition Showcases Sustainable Burial Practices

Designing for death! You read it right. And then an exhibition that encourages visitors to consider end-of-life decisions and how their choices can impact human and environmental well-being. Dr Sherry Haar, a natural dye and design scholar, investigates all of this and more to generate awareness about green burial through her fibre art.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • A green or natural burial is a way of caring for the body prior to and during burial that is non-invasive and eco-friendly.
  • Moving forward, the plan is to collaborate with individuals who want to naturally colour and print their burial textile.
  • Apart from a local soil-to-soil colouration system, the designs include sustainable design strategies for multi-use, decomposition, and meaningful engagement.
A natural earth burial allows the body and biodegradable coverings to become soil nutrients. Dr Sherry Haar co-curated an installation ‘Return to Prairie: Textiles for Green Burial Awareness’ (to run till 21 December 2024), which includes wearable art, quilts, and a felted coffin designed to stimulate discussion about preparations for death and sustainable burial.
TEXTILES FOR GREEN BURIAL A natural earth burial allows the body and biodegradable coverings to become soil nutrients. Dr Sherry Haar co-curated an installation ‘Return to Prairie: Textiles for Green Burial Awareness’ (to run till 21 December 2024), which includes wearable art, quilts, and a felted coffin designed to stimulate discussion about preparations for death and sustainable burial. Jeff Moore / Kansas State University

Dr Sherry Haar, Professor of Fashion Studies, College of Health and Human Sciences, Kansas State University, Manhattan, is a natural dye and design scholar whose work investigates sustainable design strategies for green burial and ecology of place through extraction of colour and pattern from the Kansas prairie onto fibre.

Haar co-curated the installation ‘Return to Prairie: Textiles for Green Burial Awareness’ (to run till 21 December 2024), which includes wearable art, quilts, and a felted coffin designed to stimulate discussion about preparations for death and sustainable burial.

Clothing and textiles are integral to our daily lives, yet the fashion industry is a significant contributor to overconsumption, waste and pollution. Haar’s fibre art highlights one response to this problem: natural or green burial.

texfash: Designing for death. Not many would have heard that before. Why? 
Sherry Haar: The fashion industry is beginning to address its unsustainable issues through design driven circular economy to reduce waste and pollution, circulate products and materials at their highest value, and regenerate nature (ellenmacarthurfoundation.org).  However, little attention has been paid to how our bodies and textiles at end-of-life can factor into a circular economy.  Further, even though death is 100% guaranteed, the current US society avoids end-of-life discussions, knows little about burial and funeral options, and thus are unaware of the current green burial movement.

A green or natural burial is a way of caring for the body prior to and during burial that is non-invasive and eco-friendly.  There is minimal environmental impact which aids in the conservation of natural resources, reduction of carbon emission, protection of worker health, and the restoration or preservation of habitat.  A natural earth burial allows the body and biodegradable coverings to become soil nutrients.

Thus, my exhibition of fibre art, ‘Return to Prairie: Textiles for Green Burial Awareness’, encourages visitors to consider end-of-life decisions and how their choices can impact human and environmental well-being.

Now and Later - Green burials allow for the care of the dead while preserving or restoring the burial environment. This care involves wrapping or clothing the body with biodegradable textiles.
Green burials Now and Later - Green burials allow for the care of the dead while preserving or restoring the burial environment. This care involves wrapping or clothing the body with biodegradable textiles. Jeff Moore / Kansas State University

Related question: what made *you* think about it? Was it any incident or something that set you thinking?
Sherry Haar: I was part of a design forum on textiles and place.  The burial garments by Pia Interlandi, Jae Rhim Lee and Mark Mitchell were presented as case studies by Gwendolyn Michel & Young-A Lee (Fashion & Textiles, 2017).  At the time I was investigating how to strengthen the dye bond between regional plants and fibre.  And I thought, why am I trying to strengthen this bond?  I’d rather work to decrease the bond for decomposition and design for an underserved market.

It is a very personal subject, a tricky terrain that not many would like to venture into. Comments, please.
Sherry Haar: Dying and death are personal, emotional, and heart breaking.  I cry a lot when researching and creating.  I’m very intentional that my designs don’t ‘shout’ a message.  Rather the forms subtly draw the viewer in, while the intricacy of methods give the viewer pause – to stop – to look closer – and then to be curious about green burial, to ponder end-of-life options, and perhaps consider how their body and textiles may contribute to environmental sustainability.

Your exhibition at the Marianna Kistler Beach Museum of Art is ongoing. What has been the reaction so far? Could you share any anecdotes with us?
Sherry Haar: Most visitors were not aware that natural burial is an option in the US, so they were surprised but interested to learn more and tell others about the exhibit and green burial.  Visitors shared how the exhibition experience made them reflect on current and past relationships and their relationship with dying, burial plans, and death. The other key reaction was appreciation for the level of skill and care shown in the designs.

What are the fibres and dyes that you have been working with? 
Sherry Haar: The fibres are all natural, including alpaca, cotton, hemp, flax, bamboo, wool, and silk.  The 26 dyes are also all natural with a focus on regional plants, such as coreopsis, goldenrod, osage orange, sumac, sunflower, and walnut.  The prints are from transferring prairie grasses onto the textiles with pressure and steam. 

In addition to a local soil-to-soil colouration system, the designs include sustainable design strategies for multi-use, decomposition, and meaningful engagement.

Dr Sherry Haar
Dr Sherry Haar
Professor of Fashion Studies, College of Health and Human Sciences
Kansas State University

A green or natural burial is a way of caring for the body prior to and during burial that is non-invasive and eco-friendly. There is minimal environmental impact which aids in the conservation of natural resources, reduction of carbon emission, protection of worker health, and the restoration or preservation of habitat. A natural earth burial allows the body and biodegradable coverings to become soil nutrients.

And importantly, have you been designing actual burial wear that has been used by people?
Sherry Haar: My current aim is to bring awareness to green burial through my fibre art. However, moving forward I will be collaborating with individuals who want to naturally colour and print their burial textiles.

Going back to the earlier question. This is obviously something immensely personal, religious too. Do you think there would one day be legislations about how one can bury a near and dear one? Then again, there are not just burials, but cremations too.
Sherry Haar: Each state in the US already has regulations for burials and funerals on public land, private land, and for specific religious practices.  Seven states have approved human compositing.  You mentioned cremation by fossil fuels, which is the most popular option in the US, but does emit toxic pollutants. There is also alkaline hydrolysis water cremation, which uses less fuel.

Please tell us about your own work otherwise. It is also not always that one sees a professor of fashion studies at a College of Health and Human Sciences.
Sherry Haar: I’ve been researching and designing with natural dyes for over two decades.  I’m a professor at Kansas State University, the first land-grant institute in the US, which started with studies in agriculture and domestic science (sewing, cooking, home health and welfare).  We’re one of the remaining original programmes that maintained strong ties to a college that focuses on the well-being of the individual, family and community.

One last question. Please tell us about the title of your exhibition, especially the "prairie" bit.
Sherry Haar: Actually, this should probably be one of the first questions, as my work is framed by the ecology of place.  My place is amongst the Kansas Flint Hills and Tall Grass Prairie. The Flint Hills ecoregion has most of the remaining 4% of original tall grass prairie in North America.  I gather and grow prairie plants to dye and print fibre, which then can be returned to the prairie at burial.  This unique landscape is evident in my work through representations of the prairie’s tall grasses with deep roots, vibrant wildflowers, and vast horizons.

Tall Grass Prairie Gown full front view
Tall Grass Prairie Gown full front view Jeff Moore / Kansas State University

Richa Bansal

RICHA BANSAL has more than 30 years of media industry experience, of which the last 20 years have been with leading fashion magazines in both B2B and B2C domains. Her areas of interest are traditional textiles and fabrics, retail operations, case studies, branding stories, and interview-driven features.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 28 October 2024
  • Last modified: 28 October 2024