The global apparel sector’s greenhouse gas emissions rose by 7.5% in 2023, reversing a period of flatlining and undermining hopes of course correction. New analysis by the Apparel Impact Institute (AII) attributes the increase to rising polyester use and continued garment production growth. Tier 2 processing remains the largest contributor to emissions, while ultra-fast fashion compounds the problem.
- Total apparel sector emissions in 2023 were 944 million tonnes CO₂e, or 1.78% of global GHG emissions.
- Tier 2 textile processing accounted for 55% of emissions, followed by raw material extraction at 22%.
- Polyester remains the dominant fibre at 57% of production, with recycled content largely stagnant around 12.5%.
KEY TAKEAWAY: The fashion industry is falling further behind on its climate commitments, with emissions surging in 2023 despite increased investments in decarbonisation. Polyester demand and ultra-fast fashion are outpacing efforts to reduce impact. The latest data confirms the sector is not on track to cut emissions by 45% by 2030, and highlights the urgent need for collective acceleration.
THE TRIGGER: Tuesday’s release of Taking Stock of Progress Against the Roadmap to Net Zero by AII provides the latest GHG estimates for the apparel sector. Based on 2023 data, the findings confirm a reversal of recent emission trends, driven largely by increased synthetic fibre use and rising global apparel output.
- The 2023 total of 944 Mt CO₂e represents the first major rise since 2019, when AII began tracking emissions.
- The data is drawn from the Textile Exchange fibre report and Higg MSI impact factors.
- Tier 2 and Tier 4 together account for 77% of total emissions across the apparel supply chain.
STRATEGIC SUBTEXT: While sustainability narratives remain prominent in brand messaging, cost remains the deciding factor in fibre and energy choices. Declining fossil fuel prices have made virgin synthetics cheaper than recycled options, stalling progress. Meanwhile, structural incentives continue to favour volume-based growth models that contradict stated climate ambitions.
- Recycled polyester dropped as a share of total polyester, despite its branding prominence.
- Many brands still prioritise cost over carbon when sourcing raw materials.
- Circular business models remain niche and economically uncompetitive at scale.
DATA SNAPSHOT: The apparel sector emitted 944 Mt CO₂e in 2023, up from 879 Mt in 2022. If current trends continue, emissions will reach 1.194 Gt by 2030—more than double the 0.489 Gt target aligned with a 1.5°C pathway. Tier 2 textile processing dominates the sector’s footprint, particularly through dyeing and finishing activities.
- Tier 2 emissions totalled 516.5 Mt CO₂e in 2023—over half of the sector’s total.
- Polyester accounts for 57% of global fibre production, with cotton at 20%.
- Recycled polyester held steady at 12.5%, its share unchanged over the last five years.
- Apparel GHGs now represent 1.78% of global emissions, up from 1.6% in 2022.
YES, BUT: While the overall emissions trend is negative, some manufacturers and brands have achieved significant reductions. Scope 3 reductions by major brands and absolute emission cuts by select manufacturers show that progress is possible—though isolated. These examples suggest existing tools can deliver results, if deployed at speed and scale.
- H&M cut Scope 3 emissions by 23% from 2019 to 2024, primarily through material shifts.
- Artistic Milliners reduced Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 52% from 2020 to 2023.
- Elevate Textiles and MAS Holdings both reported double-digit emission cuts through energy optimisation.
- Puma, Fast Retailing and Inditex also reported Scope 3 reductions since 2017–19 baselines.
COMING UP: Apparel companies face a wave of new climate disclosure mandates between 2025 and 2027. EU regulations and US state-level laws will require transparent reporting on both direct and supply chain emissions. AII is also developing a carbon performance benchmark, due for public consultation in late 2025, to support climate-aligned sourcing.
- The EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive comes into effect in 2025.
- California mandates Scope 3 emissions reporting from 2027 onwards.
- AII’s benchmark aims to standardise supplier climate performance assessment.
- Increased scrutiny may drive broader brand engagement with verified decarbonisation strategies.
