South Africa's policymakers and the country's clothing, textiles, leather and footwear sector stakeholders face rising pressure to proactively engage and develop a coherent strategy to create an enabling environment to shift to a circular economy, or face the grim prospects of falling behind global net zero greenhouse gas emission targets.
- The word of caution has come in a report, Designing Climate-Compatible Industrial Strategies for South Africa: The Textiles Value Chain, compiled by the Trade & Industrial Policy Strategies (TIPS) and Pinpoint Sustainability.
- The study was funded by the Department of Trade, Industry and Competition (DTIC) to assist the government and stakeholders in thinking through a climate-compatible strategy which would drive growth and employment in the value chain.
- The authors of the report were Nicola Jenkin (Pinpoint Sustainability) and Elize Hattingh (TIPS).
The Current Status of Industry:
- The South African retail, clothing, textile, footwear and leather (R-CTFL) value chain contributed R70 billion to South Africa’s gross domestic product (GDP) in 2016 (3% of total GDP).
- Depending on scope, the sector employs between 81,000 and 210,000 people.
- Within a global context, South Africa’s role is predominately that of an importer of textiles, clothing and footwear.
- However, it is also globally recognised as a producer of high-quality wool, mohair and cotton, which is mainly exported for processing.
- The sector used to have a solid manufacturing base, but due to a lack of government support, difficult manufacturing conditions and a huge influx of cheap clothing from Asia, the sector went into decline from the late 1990s.
- While this decline characterises the manufacturing base, there are signs of uplift, with South African retailers beginning to drive domestic sourcing to meet “just in time” availability, to mitigate global supply chain risks and exposure to currency fluctuations.
- The government launched the South African Retail-Clothing, Textile, Footwear and Leather Value Chain Master Plan to 2030 two years ago, to transition the sector to one which is financially sustainable and dynamic, provides compelling products, and is invested in growing local procurement, capabilities and employment.
- While one of the Master Plan’s objectives is to ensure the South African R-CTFL value chain is recognised as ethical and environmentally responsible, this is not elaborated on.
- In addition, none of the seven signatory commitments acknowledge climate change or environmental sustainability.
Outlining Focus Areas: The report points towards a general consensus that the South African textiles sector, as with its international counterparts, should focus on:
- Reducing pollution, as well as chemical, water and energy use;
- Adopting circular reuse and recycling economic models;
- Shifting towards more local production to create jobs and to build supply chain resilience; and
- Shifting towards the use of more natural fibres.
Mitigation Options: Section 4 of the report provides a set of proposed interventions to set South Africa’s textiles value chain on a climate-compatible and sustainable pathway. These mitigation options focus on the manufacturing component of the value chain, or interventions that will directly impact and enhance manufacturing practices in the country. These include:
- Reducing the use of hazardous chemicals and improving water management;
- Optimising manufacturing energy efficiency and consumption;
- Fibre-to-fibre recycling;
- Reducing single-use sanitary wear;
- Adopting clothing and footwear leasing models; and
- Increasing the second-hand clothing market.
A Three-Phase Approach: The report has proposed a three-stage approach to achieve net zero emissions by 2050:
- The first is short-term (2022-2025) and focuses on continuing industry good practice, improved understanding of the magnitude of the sector’s impact such as waste, beginning to set targets, guidelines and standards for example reduction of hazardous chemicals and carbon emission targets.
- The medium-term (2026-2036) includes establishing a forum and/or voluntary agreement to plan and implement activities, and inclusion in the R-CTFL Master Plan.
- The long-term (2036-2050) activities should focus on achieving net zero emissions through value chain stakeholder measurement, targeting impacts, acting on these and reporting.
