Researchers at the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) in the US have developed a database that contains the molecular “fingerprints” of different kinds of textile fibres and that can enable more rapid, efficient sorting of fabrics at recycling centres.
THE DATABASE: Called the Near-Infrared Spectra of Origin-defined and Real-world Textiles, or NIR-SORT, the NIST database contains 64 different fabric types along with the NIR fingerprints they produce.
- The database includes pure fibre types such as cotton and polyester; blended fibre types, such as spandex blends; and real-world fabrics taken from thrift stores.
- The 64 fabric samples include: 39 known provenance fabrics with pure fibre content and various dyes/finishes, 14 known provenance fabrics with undyed, blended fibre content, and 11 post-consumer fabrics with various fibre contents, dyes, and finishes.
- This reference data will help improve sorting algorithms and unlock the potential for high-throughput sorting, which requires less manual labour.
- For similar fibres like cotton or hemp, the near-infrared signal is similar, making sorting difficult. In such cases, AI can help make the decision-making process more accurate.
- Manufacturers of NIR scanner systems can use this database to train and test their sorting algorithms and improve the performance of their products.
- The database is free and available to download at the NIST Public Data Repository.
THE CONTEXT: According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), in 2018 around 85% of used clothes and textiles headed to landfills and incinerators, wasting precious resources and polluting the environment.
- One reason why companies have little incentive to recycle is that recycling can be more expensive than landfilling.
- This research stems from a key initiative of a report by NIST in which experts recommended the development of better technology for identifying and sorting textiles and clothing.
- These efforts are part of NIST’s ‘Circular Economy Program’, which develops measurement science and methods to support an economy where materials are designed to retain their value through repeated reuse, repair and recycling, with disposal as a last resort.
THE PEOPLE: Amanda Forster, a NIST materials research engineer, leads the NIST project focused on keeping end-of-life textiles in the economy. NIST research chemist Katarina Goodge led the development of the database.
