Nine chemistries positioned as alternatives to per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), the persistent chemicals some water-repellent and oil-repellent finishes have historically contained, are now being benchmarked under a newly launched industry initiative. Fashion for Good has named the initiative Project DW(O)R-X, designed to guard against regrettable substitution, in which one problematic substance is swapped for another that is not yet well understood.
- The project incorporates multi-condition performance testing using a set of custom stains relevant to sportswear and outerwear, including soil, sunscreen and sweat.
- Brands and mills can use the resulting data as a common reference point for internal sourcing decisions, while chemical companies can rely on it to substantiate their performance claims.
- Current benchmarks no longer reflect the capabilities of today's alternative chemistries, leaving performance gaps that updated data could help identify for research and development.
THE PERFORMANCE GAP: Durable water- and oil-repellent (DW(O)R) finishes have historically helped materials stay dry, clean and durable over time. Momentum towards PFAS-based alternatives has not resolved every challenge: many currently available alternatives do not match the oil repellency and long-term durability of PFAS-based finishes. Project DW(O)R-X responds to this gap directly, benchmarking each of the nine candidates consistently against the same real-world conditions.
- The nine chemistries under review range from early-stage innovations to more established alternatives, covering the breadth of options currently being explored as replacements for PFAS-based DW(O)R finishes.
- The performance framework was built by combining a range of standardised test methods into one system, intended to make results from different chemistries directly comparable.
THE UNDERLYING CONCERNS: PFAS have been associated with adverse health effects when exposure exceeds established thresholds, according to the European Environmental Bureau, compounding concerns already raised by the chemicals' documented tendency to bioaccumulate, or build up over time, in humans and ecosystems. These combined environmental and health considerations are among the factors behind why the wider industry continues to look for viable replacements.
- The benchmarking exercise is also designed to identify which of the nine solutions is best placed to lead, supporting scale-up efforts for the most promising chemistries.
- Growing market demand for alternatives to PFAS-based finishes is one of the underlying drivers behind the initiative, alongside the persistence and health concerns already outlined.
THE FULL ROSTER: Alongside brands Adidas and C&A, the project's manufacturing partners are Shahi Exports, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials and Wujiang Fuhua Fabric Co., while its technology providers are Archroma, Daikin Chemicals Europe, Dow, Dryfiber, Jintex, Lamoral Coatings, Pulcra Chemicals, Rudolf and vandeyk.tech. Together, they form the project's full roster of named participants, as confirmed in Fashion for Good's Amsterdam announcement of 6 August 2026.
- C&A said it has not allowed the intentional use of PFAS in its products for many years, adding that phasing out PFAS sector-wide requires coordinated action.
- According to C&A, a responsible transition depends on shared changes in manufacturing practices and on alternatives that are accessible, well understood and available at scale.
- C&A also said collaborating with other brands and partners contributes to a shared knowledge base that supports safer chemistry, while maintaining the quality and durability its customers expect.
WHAT THEY SAID
The challenge for the whole industry isn't just phasing out PFAS: it's ensuring we don't replace it with something equally concerning that we understand less well. Right now, brands and mills are navigating this transition without updated benchmarks to compare these alternatives. Project DW(O)R-X gives them the data they need: performance testing that reflects real-world use, comprehensive impact assessment, and a better understanding of cost structures. This is how we enable informed decisions and genuine progress toward safer chemistry at scale.
— Katrin Ley
Managing Director
Fashion for Good
