About 71% of rated man-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF) producers have achieved 'green shirt' status or higher in the 2024 edition of Canopy's Hot Button Report.
- These producers represent 53% of the global supply of viscose, rayon, lyocell, and other MMCF textiles.
- The 'green shirt' is a designation recognising leadership inalleviating pressure on the world’sAncient and Endangered Forests and prioritisation of circular low-carbon fibres in the MMCF supply chains.
- For the first time in the report’s history, three global producers—India-based Aditya Birla, Austria-based Lenzing, and China-based Tangshan Sanyou—have all earned the same high button score and dark green shirts.
THE SIGNIFICANCE: This year’s report comes at a critical moment, with demand for MMCF-based textiles surging—an increase of nearly half a million tonnes this year alone.
- A significant amount of this capacity expansion comes from producers with red in their shirts—any red in a shirt indicates the producer is at high risk of sourcing from high-carbon and biodiverse forests.
- However, focused work is still needed to ensure the entire fashion and home textile value chain collaborates effectively to scale NextGen production and pull these fabrics through to market.
THE HIGHLIGHTS: The report highlights several key developments:
- 97.5% of global MMCF production is now rated with a shirt colour in the Hot Button Report.
- Four producers advanced from green to partial dark green shirt status.
- Chinese manufacturers continue to demonstrate remarkable leadership, with Tanshan Sanyou, Yibin Grace, Xinxiang Chemical Fiber Co, Jilin Chemical Fibre, and Acegreen all achieving dark green shirts.
- Aditya Birla, Lenzing, and Eastman also achieved dark green shirts, representing production in India, Austria and the US.
- Nearly all engaged MMCF producers are either actively using low-carbon NextGen alternatives, much of which is derived from waste textiles, or are engaged in advanced NextGen research and development (R&D).
- The Hot Button reports two new commercial NextGen product lines, as well as a new NextGen dissolving pulp facility coming online.
THE SERIES: The Hot Button Report has been the primary fibre sourcing analysis tool for the fashion sector since 2016, providing crucial data for 550+ brands, retailers, and designers to inform and support decision-making in their forest-based fabric supply chains.
- CanopyStyle partners are committed to sourcing only from green shirt producers. Canopy acts as a catalyst and convener in this work, creating the conditions necessary to bring low-impact NextGen Solutions to commercial scale and adoption.
WHAT THEY SAID:
The Hot Button Report continues to be a very important tool as we work to reduce the carbon and biodiversity impacts of our materials. Since 2020, H&M Group has only purchased from green shirt producers. We’re particularly encouraged by the increased number of MMCF producers that are eliminating Ancient and Endangered Forests from the value chain along with the increased utilization of NextGen materials.
— Madelene Ericsson Ryman
Sustainability Business Expert
H&M Group
Three of the top four MMCF producers in the world have tied for the highest score, with each now elevated into a dark green shirt ranking. Canopy and our brand partners congratulate the leadership of those producers who have invested significant effort into their sourcing and NextGen R&D in a race to the top. There are a few incumbents that continue to source from high-carbon regions, but 71% of MMCF producers—both large and small—are moving in a direction that meets brands’ needs and planetary targets. Brands now have more options than ever to partner with producers that align with their business goals.
— Nicole Rycroft
Founder and Executive Director
Canopy