The first-ever report on textile waste in the United States has examined the environmental impact of textile waste, described how the rate of textile waste has increased in recent decades, and identified what actions the federal government can take to reduce textile waste and advance textile recycling.
- The Government Accountability Office’s (GAO) report has recommended that the US Congress consider providing direction to a federal entity, or entities, to coordinate and take action to reduce textile waste and advance textile recycling.
- GAO also made seven recommendations to six federal entities, including that they collaborate through an interagency mechanism.
WHAT GAO FOUND: GAO found that most federal entities' efforts are nascent, and their approach depends on their mission and expertise.
- Further, federal entities carry out individualised efforts on textile waste and recycling and give these efforts a lower priority than other goals.
- GAO identified opportunities for interagency collaboration to improve these efforts. In 2022, some federal entities took steps to formalise an interagency group, but these efforts have stopped.
- Interagency collaboration that follows leading practices for enhancing and sustaining collaboration could leverage resources to improve the federal government's capacity to reduce textile waste and advance textile recycling.
THE RECOMMENDATIONS: The GAO hasmade seven recommendations to six federal entities, including that they coordinate through an interagency mechanism that follows leading practices.
- Environmental Protection Agency: The Administrator of EPA, in conjunction with NIST, OSTP, NSF, and the US Departments of State and Energy, should establish an interagency mechanism to coordinate federal efforts on textile circularity, reducing textile waste, and advancing textile recycling in the US. This interagency mechanism should identify and involve federal participants and should consider leading collaboration practices, including clearly defining common outcomes and identifying data and resource needs.
- National Institute of Standards and Technology: The Director of NIST, in conjunction with EPA, OSTP, NSF, and the US Departments of State and Energy, should establish an interagency mechanism to coordinate federal efforts on textile circularity, reducing textile waste, and advancing textile recycling in the US. This interagency mechanism should identify and involve federal participants and should consider leading collaboration practices, including clearly defining common outcomes and identifying data and resource needs.
- Office of Science and Technology Policy: The Director of OSTP, in conjunction with EPA, NIST, NSF, and the US Departments of State and Energy, should establish an interagency mechanism to coordinate federal efforts on textile circularity, reducing textile waste, and advancing textile recycling in the US. This interagency mechanism should identify and involve federal participants and should consider leading collaboration practices, including clearly defining common outcomes and identifying data and resource needs.
- Department of State: The Secretary of State, in conjunction with EPA, NIST, NSF, and OSTP, and US Department of Energy, should establish an interagency mechanism to coordinate federal efforts on textile circularity, reducing textile waste, and advancing textile recycling in the US. This interagency mechanism should identify and involve federal participants and should consider leading collaboration practices, including clearly defining common outcomes and identifying data and resource needs.
- Department of Energy: The Secretary of Energy, in conjunction with EPA, NIST, NSF, and OSTP, and the US Department of State, should establish an interagency mechanism to coordinate federal efforts on textile circularity, reducing textile waste, and advancing textile recycling in the US. This interagency mechanism should identify and involve federal participants and should consider leading collaboration practices, including clearly defining common outcomes and identifying data and resource needs.
- National Science Foundation: The Director of NSF, in conjunction with EPA, NIST, OSTP, and the US Departments of State and Energy, should establish an interagency mechanism to coordinate federal efforts on textile circularity, reducing textile waste, and advancing textile recycling in the US. This interagency mechanism should identify and involve federal participants and should consider leading collaboration practices, including clearly defining common outcomes and identifying data and resource needs.
- Environmental Protection Agency: The Assistant Administrator of EPA's Office of Land and Emergency Management should identify and communicate federal financial resources (such as grants and other funding opportunities) and assistance that are available to encourage and support efforts by states, local governments, and organisations to reduce textile waste and advance textile recycling.
THE BACKDROP: While data on textile waste are limited, the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) textile waste data estimates an over 50% increase between 2000 and 2018 in the US.
- According to federal, academic, nonprofit, and industry sources, textile waste has increased because of multiple factors, including a shift to a fast fashion business model; limited, decentralised systems for collecting and sorting textiles; and the infancy of textile recycling technologies.
- Some federal entities have initiated and planned a number of efforts to reduce textile waste and advance textile recycling. For example, the US Department of Commerce's National Institute of Standards and Technology led a workshop on reducing textile waste in 2021 with participants from industry, academia, government, and trade associations, among others, and is researching methods for textile recycling.
- The US Department of State leads an informal interagency group focused on extending the life of products and materials; this group held a March 2024 meeting focused on textiles. EPA plans to develop a national textile recycling strategy within 5 to 10 years, according to officials.
THE CONTEXT: The rise of so-called fast fashion has become an urgent environmental problem. Today, nearly two-thirds of all the fibres we wear and use are made from fossil fuel products. The fashion industry is now responsible for more carbon emissions than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.
- Fast fashion relies on cheap manufacturing, frequent consumption, and short-lived garment use. This constant cycle of production and disposal is taking a huge toll on our environment. Over the last two decades, in line with the ascension of fast fashion, the rate of textile waste has increased tremendously.
KEY PROTAGONISTS: Chellie Pingree founded and launched the Congressional Slow Fashion Caucus in June 2024 to create climate-smart policies to reduce, repair, rewear, and recycle textiles.
- Rosa DeLauro is Ranking Member of the House Appropriations Committee.
- Tom Carper is Chair of the Senate Committee on Environment and Public Works and is Co-Chair of the Senate Recycling Caucus.
WHAT THEY SAID
This report is a wakeup call for Congress to take bold action. As Founder and Chair of the Congressional Slow Fashion Caucus, which is developing policy to reduce natural resource consumption and promote reusing, repairing, and recycling textiles, I will introduce legislation next Congress to support and build on these recommendations. Together, we can transition from a linear, throwaway economy to a circular one that protects our environment and communities. I am grateful to the advocates, industry leaders, and colleagues who are standing with me to tackle fast fashion pollution. This is just the beginning.
— Chellie Pingree
D-Maine
US House of Representatives
Fast fashion has created an unsustainable cycle of overproduction and overwhelming waste that is hurting our environment and communities. This report underscores the need for federal leadership to curb the staggering environmental and economic costs of textile waste. I am proud to have worked alongside Congresswoman Pingree and Senator Carper to shine a light on this issue. I am committed to advancing policies that protect the health of our planet for generations to come and look forward to working with Congresswoman Pingree in reduce textile waste while advancing textile recycling.
—Rosa DeLauro
D-Conn.
US House of Representatives
Every second, a dump truck of textiles ends up in a landfill. The fashion industry is responsible for nearly ten percent of all global greenhouse gas emissions — more than the aviation sector and maritime shipping combined. Reducing waste from textiles like clothing and upholstery is an important opportunity for Congress and federal agencies to act to protect our planet. We’ve already made great progress in strengthening recycling programs, but addressing the challenges specific to textile waste requires additional efforts. This report highlights the positive steps agencies have already taken to promote textile sustainability, and it also makes it clear that we need a coordinated federal effort to increase textile reuse and recycling for years to come.
— Tom Carper
Chairman, Environment and Public Works Committee
US Senate
