Better Cotton to Change LCA Approach, Collaborate with Cascale, Focus Instead on Country-Level LCAs

Better Cotton, which has been at the receiving end over its failure to check deforestation and human rights abuses by cotton companies in Brazil, has decided to change its approach to lifecycle assessments by focusing on country-level LCAs.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Better Cotton believes that now is the time to engage in country-level LCAs, which match the level of Better Cotton Traceability launched in November 2023.
  • Better Cotton would be collaborating with Cascale to produce country-level LCA metrics for Traceable Better Cotton lint “in line with our current capability to trace cotton to the country level.”
Better Cotton plans to monitor and report on other key sustainability issues not covered by the LCA approach, such as soil health, biodiversity, pesticide use, women’s empowerment and sustainable livelihoods.
Other Aspects Better Cotton plans to monitor and report on other key sustainability issues not covered by the LCA approach, such as soil health, biodiversity, pesticide use, women’s empowerment and sustainable livelihoods. 12019 / Pixabay

Better Cotton has decided to shift its approach to lifecycle assessments (LCAs) to ensure that the initiative is “in step with the sector.”

  • This would be done in collaboration with Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SCA). Plans are to introduce this new approach in the second half of 2024; the first metrics to be published would be for India
  • The announcement has been made on the Better Cotton website by Miguel Gomez-Escolar Viejo, Data Analysis Manager.
  • The subject is expected to be discussed in detail during the Better Cotton Conference to be held in June at Istanbul, Türkiye.
  • Better Cotton has been under fire of late over its lax traceability measures. It was put in the dock by a recent Earthsight report which had alleged that there were loopholes in Better Cotton’s standards system which consequently paved the way for rampant deforestation and flagrant violations of human rights by big cotton companies in Brazil.

THE RATIONALE: The Better Cotton statement said: “We believe that now is the time to engage in country-level LCAs, which match the level of Better Cotton Traceability launched in November 2023. The metrics will become more specific as traceability develops. Publishing these LCA metrics will allow us to better align with industry needs and expected legislation, and it is what is needed to work with the sector to drive positive change – like reducing GHG emissions intensity and improving water use efficiency and water quality.”

WORKING WITH CASCALE: Better Cotton would be collaborating with Cascale to produce country-level LCA metrics for Traceable Better Cotton lint “in line with our current capability to trace cotton to the country level.”

  • It will use Cascale’s cotton LCA model, which is under joint development with other major sustainable cotton programmes. This model aims to ensure that various cotton programmes can use the same methodology. 
  • Taking the lead from the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI), the model will report the following metrics:  global warming potential; nutrient pollution in water; water scarcity ; and, fossil fuel depletion.
  • Since there is large variation in cotton production contexts and available technologies across different countries, Better Cotton believes the best use of LCA metrics will be to measure progress over time for each cotton programme at the country level.
  • When paired with volumes of Traceable Better Cotton, Better Cotton-specific LCA metrics at the country level “can inform our Retailer and Brand Members’ organisational footprinting and reporting against Science-Based Targets. Importantly, the metrics can help identify opportunities for investment and engagement in Better Cotton climate mitigation and other environmental projects.”
 
 
  • Dated posted: 2 May 2024
  • Last modified: 2 May 2024