Handlooms

For generations, master artisans across India and the Global South supplied luxury markets while their names stayed hidden behind export houses, intermediaries and non-disclosure agreements. A new incubator asks whether that labour can carry its own name and command luxury value. Susan Walker, whose nonprofit Ibu operates from the American city of Charleston, explains how visibility and price might converge.

India's craft sector employs millions of women in home-based work, often paid by the piece and rarely counted in corporate accountability. As machine-made imitations spread, the question of fair pay grows sharper. Katherine Neuman, who runs House of Wandering Silk in Delhi, examines how replication, pricing and storytelling together decide the fortunes of traditional makers.

As slow fashion turns handmade cloth into a selling point, the artisans behind Ikat and Kantha have gained visibility without a matching rise in pay or security. The imbalance raises a pointed question about who profits from the story of craft. Megha Agarwal, founder of Studio Maeve, weighs whether artisan recognition delivers genuine dignity or borrowed branding.

Himroo, a centuries-old silk-and-cotton weave from the city now called Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, had fallen from thousands of handlooms to none still working. Arushi Chowdhury Khanna, who founded the social enterprise LoomKatha, argues that reviving such a craft depends less on preserving skill than on rebuilding the market and the visibility that sustain it, not on the loom alone.

For generations, the women who hand-paint Kalamkari cloth in southern Andhra Pradesh sold their labour without their names attached to it. Anita Reddy, a social worker who founded the artisan collective DWARAKA, set out to change that by placing control of both the making and the pricing with the women themselves, from the first outline to the final price.

The Government of India has outlined measures to promote eco-friendly textiles, organic fibres and natural dyes, citing rising global demand and export potential. Initiatives include cluster-based pilot projects, research collaborations, branding efforts and organic cultivation schemes to strengthen sustainable production, certification and domestic manufacturing across the textile value chain.

Where does design fit in the textile-fashion hierarchy? The warp in crafts and livelihood, and the missing weft of innovation. Why has Indian design fallen short of its promise on the global platform? Dr Mihir Bholey, former Principal Faculty, Interdisciplinary Design Studies, Science and Liberal Arts at the National Institute of Design (NID), discusses it all and more in this freewheeling conversation.

Pakistan’s fashion sector is undergoing rapid change, shaped by industrial growth, heritage practices, and sustainability challenges. The country’s integrated supply chain, reliance on cotton, and emerging use of synthetics highlight systemic risks. Traditional eco-friendly practices are fading, while small-scale sustainable brands point to alternative paths. Weak governance, industry greenwashing, and missing education remain critical barriers to meaningful progress.

Why does a designer have to lie? Why don’t we give the master craftsperson his/her due? Master embroiderer, craft exponent and revivalist Asif Sheikh answers these questions and more on the whats and whys that plague the handcrafted handloom industry.