Deep Focus / Africa Seconds / PART I Interview

Spotlight: Africa Seconds

Narratives about Second-Hand Clothing Being Driven by Those Who Are Misinformed

One of the many African countries that has been repeatedly mentioned in the swathe of Western media reports about the impact of the second-hand clothing trade is Kenya. But the sector is huge in the country in its spread, and mitumba touches the lives of millions. Yet, the opinion of the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) has largely gone unheard. The Chairperson of the MCAK, Teresia Wairimu Njenga, tells texfash that much of what abounds is misinformation.

Subir Ghosh

10 June 2024

5 minutes

Long Story, Cut Short

Kenyan government has developed protocols that support the protection of second-hand clothing.
The trade supports over 2 million people and contributes hugely to the tax revenue of the country.
The second-hand clothing sector plays a significant role in transitioning to a circular economy and achieving carbon neutrality globally.

Market Place Traders selling second-hand clothes at Gikomba Market in Nairobi. It is one of the biggest and busiest markets in the country. Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya

texfash: Let's start with the current crisis. Africa is today seen (certainly in the West) as the dumping ground for the fashion industry. What is your personal take on this? How did this narrative come about?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: The narrative that Africa is a dumpsite for the global fashion industry is due to the misinformation that has been spread by those who have a good interest for the industry but are using inadequate information. My personal stand—having been in the business for over two decades—is that this is not a dumping site.

Kenya, especially, is a huge economic hub and the Kenyan government has developed protocols that support the protection of second-hand clothing. The sector imports grade A and B, which is of high quality since we are businessmen and women who pay a hefty amount of money to be in business.

There have been countless studies and papers on second-hand clothing in African countries. But the focus of most of the earlier studies/papers seem to have been from a livelihood point of view. In the last 3–4 years it's been all about the dumping of textile waste. What changed the narrative? Who changed the discourse?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: The discourse on the second-hand clothing trade has been changed by people who are misinformed. The sector significantly contributes to the protection of the environment. For instance, we know that carbon emitted from the transportation of bales of second-hand clothing by sea and air or land is less than that emitted in industries producing new clothes. According to the Kenyan government and major stakeholders like the Kenya Association of Manufacturers, embedding a circular economy will provide opportunities for the country to retain liquidity and improve the prospects of entrepreneurship and employment.

The second-hand clothing industry effectively minimises resource consumption and waste through clothing reuse, wherein customers are the primary partners and suppliers. It also plays a significant role in transitioning to a circular economy and achieving carbon neutrality globally.

The term frequently used in Western media and activist circles is "waste colonialism". Is it so? (ii) It is rather ironic that activists and journalists in former colonial powers talk about colonialism to former colonies. Isn't that extremely ironic? By dumping a new narrative on African countries, they are simply practicing a new kind of colonialism. Comments, please.
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: These narratives are heavily tarnishing the name of African market. We have to shift from manufacturing new products to reusing and recycling. European countries have always reused products, so why not African countries? We have a responsibility to take care of our environment and the second-hand clothing trade sector is contributing to this in a huge way.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

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The ban on textile waste from the EU is going to affect the second-hand clothing sector in all African countries. What is the extent of damage that you foresee? How many jobs are going to be lost in your country? How many businesses will have to shut down?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: The trade supports over 2 million people in different parts of the country. The worse that will happen after such a ban is rendering these people without employment. It will trickle down to their livelihoods making it extremely difficult for them to earn a decent living. This industry contributes hugely to the tax revenue of the country—that too will be greatly affected.

The government too earns revenue for every container of second-hand clothing that comes into the country. With the EU ban, the government too will be hit on revenues. What is the loss that you envisage? Are you working with your own government on this?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: We cannot emphasise this enough, but the statistics say it all. The Kenyan government continues to benefit from the second-hand clothing business. Taxes levied on second-hand clothes are as follows; import duties, railway development levy, and import declaration levy. These taxes add up to $12,500 dollars per 40 ft container (equivalent to 24 tonnes).

Kenya imported 185,000 tonnes of second-hand clothing in 2019 equivalent to an approximately 8,000 containers. The taxes paid amounted to Ksh 10.2 billion. The sector contributes at least 1 billion shillings in revenue per month which goes a long way in funding government services like universal health care programmes and infrastructure development.

What is fashion waste in Europe is affordable fashion for many people in many African countries. Do you think activists, journalists and politicians in both the US and Europe fail to grasp this? There is clearly a communication gap.
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: Absolutely. They fail to do comprehensive research and their biased reports have been greatly spread over and aboard. This can potentially harm the industry. We need to do comprehensive research that informs policies in the right way.

Have you been engaging with policymakers in the EU about the waste ban? If so, what is the response that you have got? Were you consulted by EU policymakers about the issue at all?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: Yes, we have, and we keep informing the policymakers with the right information. We are delighted that they have given us audience and we will keep informing on these decisions as we progress.

Second-hand clothes on display at a market. The sector contributes at least 1 billion shillings in revenue per month which goes a long way in funding government services like universal health care programmes and infrastructure development. Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya

All said, the issues raised by the OR/CMF/Greenpeace reports cannot be wished away. There are countless photographs of the piles of textile waste. So, what's the source of this waste? On an average, how much is generated every day?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: We cannot refute the waste seen in the photos, but it would be unfair to state that most of the waste is from the second-hand sector per se. It is important to recognise that the sector contributes to environmental protection as well. For instance, recycling a shirt saves on the water that could have been used in the manufacturing of that shirt. As well as reducing the amount of carbon dioxide that could have potentially been produced from the one cloth as well.

Waste dumps come with their own set of problems, especially those related to environment and health. Are you working with solid waste management experts (be it civil society or govt)? Do you have an alternative plan that takes care of this?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: In line with a previous study on the composition of solid waste generated in Nairobi county, indicative data from interviewed retailers suggests that approximately 4–12 pieces of clothing out of 350–600 pieces of clothing in one bale for children/adults or babies respectively, translating to approximately 1–2%, end up as actual waste that is incinerated or dumped in the Dandora dumpsite. While there may be some damaged or unsaleable clothing items, such items and the overall proportion of waste in imported second-hand clothing, as reported by retail traders, was relatively low at no more than 2%. Traders strive to ensure that as few pieces as possible are wasted.

Another grouse against second-hand clothing is that it cuts into local manufacturing and traditional textiles, both. How much of this is true, according to you? Are you doing anything to see that the second sector does not harm local industry?
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: The second-hand clothing trade compliments local industry and does not in any way disadvantage the latter as is being reported. It is good to note that some of the textile raw products that local manufacturers use are actually from the second-hand trade.

The second-hand clothing sector clearly has an image management and PR management problem. Every other day there is an article in the Western media about fashion waste in some African country or the other. And it's not going to stop any time soon. How are you going to build a counter-narrative.
Teresia Wairimu Njenga: Unfortunately, yes. But we have already started representing the sector and sharing the right information. Although we have a long way to go, I'm happy to see the Western countries giving dialogue about the sector a chance.

Teresia Wairimu Njenga

Chairperson

Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya

The trade supports over 2 million people in different parts of the country. The worse that will happen after such a ban (by the EU) is rendering these people without employment. It will trickle down to their livelihoods making it extremely difficult for them to earn a decent living. This industry contributes hugely to the tax revenue of the country—that too will be greatly affected.