A Cursory Look at Cotton through Numbers

Cotton is fraught with its own problems (ranging from climate risks and disruptions to trade wars) and polyester comes with its own driving forces (from costs to consumer preference). There are relatively lesser elements that are not deliberated as much in the public domain as they should be. For instance, why are the myths about cotton allowed to flourish? texfash looks at the story behind some numbers crunched out in the public domain.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Global consumption of natural fibres peaked in 2007 at 26.5 million tonnes and shrank to around 24.4 million tonnes in 2021–23.
  • Global cotton consumption is expected to grow by 5.67% to 24.98 million tonnes in 2023–24, marking the beginning of a recovery after a season of substantial decline.
  • The United States, India, China, and Brazil will play pivotal roles in global production, while the expanding textile industries in Asia will drive consumption.
For 2023–24, ICAC expected the global cotton production numbers to be 24.12 million tonnes, "showing a slight decrease from the previous year." All Big Three — India, China and the United States — are set to produce less this year.
Declining production For 2023–24, ICAC expected the global cotton production numbers to be 24.12 million tonnes, "showing a slight decrease from the previous year." All Big Three — India, China and the United States — are set to produce less this year. Lance Cheung / USDA via rawpixel.com

Making sense of cotton numbers is not too difficult. There aren't too many market reports to peruse that taken together tend to confuse the reader more than make sense.

The two sets of numbers that cotton watchers pay heed to come from the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) and the annual outlook jointly published by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). Read together with the numbers from Textile Exchange's yearly, now-rechristened Materials Market Report, the cotton picture is clearer still.

When the theme of the World Cotton Day this year is 'Cotton for Good', it is only germane to ascertain if the numbers look good. Some might even argue that the theme itself is a fait accompli since cotton is always for good. But given that the mob of detractors has been swelling up in the last decade (and quite aggressively so) and that polyester is virtually steamrolling every other fibre, the numbers around cotton need to be looked at closely and carefully.

Let's pick up two publications that look at the state of production, consumption and trade and also make projections for the coming years: Cotton - Review of the World Situation published by the ICAC less than two months back and OECD-FAO's Agricultural Outlook 2024–2033, released in early July. 

The production: Current state and the future

There hasn't been much change at the global production level with the Big Three (India, China and the United States) and the Lesser Two (Brazil and Pakistan) together making up for more than three quarters of the global cotton output. For 2023–24, ICAC expected the global cotton production numbers to be 24.12 million tonnes, "showing a slight decrease from the previous year." All Big Three are set to produce less this year.

According to OECD-FAO, the global production of cotton is expected to grow steadily and reach 29 million tonnes by 2033, 17% higher than in the base period. The "foreseen increase will mostly come from growth in the main cotton producers: India will account for about 38% of the global increase, followed by the United States (27%), and Brazil (21%). Overall, gains in cotton production are predominantly driven by higher yields, and to a lesser extent, on expansion in area harvested."

In some ways, this projection is agnostic and does not take into account many of the problems that cotton has had to confront in the last year or so.

Yet, it is interesting to note what the OECD-FAO base their growth figures on: "average global yields are projected to increase by 11% compared to the base period. Factors such as improvements in genetics, better agricultural practices, and digitalisation supporting precision agriculture will significantly contribute to enhance productivity and sustainability."

This may or may not seem optimistic, but what it surely does not do is take into account how cotton would be placed vis-a-vis the other fibres. Ironically, this is also why the Outlook report is significant: it looks at cotton purely as an agricultural commodity. "By 2033, yields in China and Brazil are projected to double the world average, while in India, the largest cotton producer, yields are expected to remain below it." The yield factor would be one to keep one's eyes on.

The consumption: Current state and the future

The Review projects global cotton consumption to grow by 5.67% to 24.98 million tonnes in 2023–24, "marking the beginning of a recovery after a season of substantial decline. Key factors contributing to this growth include increasing demand in major markets such as China and India, as well as a recovery in global economic activity."

In the outlook section of the same report, ICAC looks at 2024–25: "The United States, India, China, and Brazil will play pivotal roles in global production, while the expanding textile industries in Asia will drive consumption. The projected rise in global cotton trade and the anticipated low-price levels present both opportunities and challenges for stakeholders across the supply chain." Maybe they do, but this is what precisely makes it all very unstable.

The ICAC study dwells heavily on climate risks (and associated water risks), but at the same time only skims the trade tension surface. Both China and India are expected to rely more on rising domestic demand. This again will need a close watch.

The Outlook report expects China "to remain the largest cotton processing country in 2033, followed by India, with consumption projected to grow 0.9% and 1.5% p.a. respectively over the next decade. This also where the report, while providing the backdrop to cotton consumption by mills, will-nilly tells us how the fibre usage by end-consumers will drive production.

It points out: "Over the past decades, global demand for textiles fibres has sharply increased, driven mainly by population and income growth, particularly in low- and middle-income countries. This expanding demand has been largely supplied by chemical fibres. The diverse advantages of synthetics compared to cotton including durability, wrinkle resistance, moisture-wicking, and/or competitive prices have boosted textile manufacture industry to favour synthetic over cotton fibres. As a result, global consumption of natural fibres peaked in 2007 at 26.5 million tonnes and shrank to around 24.4 million tonnes in 2021–23." 

The fibre: The state of affairs

This observation takes one to the MMR study, and the slightly depressing status of cotton as a fibre for eventual fashion consumption is easy to understand.

As synthetic fibres (especially polyester) maintain their stranglehold over fashion, the TE report underlines: "Global cotton fibre production decreased slightly between 2021–22 and 2022–23, from 25.1 to 24.4 million tonnes. After polyester, cotton is the second most widely produced fibre, accounting for 20% of global fibre production." It's the same number, but also shows that cotton remains a second choice. It is a distant second by a mile, and that distance widens by the year.

Cotton is fraught with its own problems (ranging from climate risks and disruptions to trade wars) and polyester comes with its own driving forces (from costs to consumer preference). All these are well-documented and discussed ad nauseam. There are relatively lesser elements that are not deliberated as much in the public domain as they should be. For instance, why are the myths about cotton allowed to flourish? Who gains?

Maybe that's a thread we would like to pursue.

After polyester, cotton is the second most widely produced fibre, accounting for 20% of global fibre production. It is a distant second by a mile, and that distance widens by the year.
After polyester, cotton is the second most widely produced fibre, accounting for 20% of global fibre production. It is a distant second by a mile, and that distance widens by the year. rawpixel.com
 
 
 
  • Dated posted 10 October 2024
  • Last modified 10 October 2024