Value of Luxury Has Changed; Secondhand Will Further Shape its Connotation

Will secondhand fashion, including luxury, become as big as firsthand? Yes, says Stephanie Crespin, Founder & CEO of Reflaunt.com, a resale technology provider for fashion brands which claims a network spanning over 350 million secondhand shoppers globally. texfash.com in conversation.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • The luxury industry's values have shifted—they're about innovation, sustainability and inclusion.
  • COVID-19 accelerated brand's awareness of circularity/resale as resale was achieving double digit growth while they were in decline.
  • There are $2 trillion worth of clothes sitting idle in people's closets.
As secondhand and rental grows, its more about the experience of using and enjoying items rather than possessing brand new ones.
Experiential As secondhand and rental grows, its more about the experience of using and enjoying items rather than possessing brand new ones. Tamara Bellis / Unsplash

texfash.com: What in your estimate is the size of the luxury fashion resale market? How do you see it growing further?
Stephanie Crespin: According to different sources out there, one of them Coresight Research, March 2023–27's resale market is valued at $350 billion and there are $2 trillion worth of clothes sitting idle in people's closets. It will continue to grow exponentially as brands/retailers get involved and resale becomes part of any ecommerce experience. Secondhand will become as big as firsthand.

What triggered the growth, considering that secondhand luxury was almost a touch-me-not world? What consumer insights, gained from your business, do you think is leading this growth? 
Stephanie Crespin: The luxury industry is not immune to the urgency for a more sustainable industry—brands have been pressured by consumers and now increasing regulations (EPR, etc) are forcing brands to take ownership/accountability and demonstrating change. The luxury industry's values have shifted—they're about innovation, sustainability and inclusion. What's luxurious about owning a bag or clothing when you know it's damaging or bringing filth on our planet?

COVID-19 accelerated brand's awareness of circularity/resale as: (a) resale was achieving double digit growth while they were in decline; (b) urgency to rethink their model and dependencies with offline (resale is online); and (c) disrupted and changing consumer habits and values.

You just said that secondhand will become as big as firsthand. How do you think the connotations of luxury will change?
Stephanie Crespin: The value of luxury has changed dramatically; we went from a world where it was all about exclusivity, heritage, traditions to a world where luxury has shifted towards inclusivity, sustainability, innovations. Secondhand will further shape the connotation of luxury. 

  • Brands with timeless, durable pieces: Those that can pass the test of time, retain its quality and be passed on from hand to hand in the secondhand market will win disproportionally.
  • Unique pieces with vintage appeal: Consumers may seek one-of-a-kind pieces that have a story or vintage items with character, challenging the traditional notion of luxury tied to brand new items.
  • Affordability: As it becomes a key factor, luxury may be less about exclusivity and more about personal style and individual expression. However, I believe brands will always come up with more exclusive lines, pieces and product segments. 
  • Shift from ownership to usage: As secondhand and rental grows, its more about the experience of using and enjoying items rather than possessing brand new ones.

How does Reflaunt work? What were the initial problems that you faced and how have you gone about addressing/resolving those? 
Stephanie Crespin: Reflaunt is a resale technology provider for fashion brands, facilitating the resale or repurposing of unworn items directly on their ecommerce platforms. Our clients include renowned fashion brands such as COS, Balenciaga, Net-a-porter, and Harvey Nichols.

Leading brands leverage Reflaunt's global operations and resale infrastructure to seamlessly handle their customers' luxury wardrobe. We inspect and value each item, resell it, and enhance customer loyalty through shopping credit rewards.

Reflaunt fosters collaboration across the value chain, connecting retailers, resale marketplaces, recycling and upcycling experts, supply chain traceability players, and repair service providers. This unprecedented network spans over 350 million secondhand shoppers globally.

In essence, Reflaunt empowers brands to regain control of their secondhand market, contributing to a significant reduction in textile waste destined for landfills.

Initial problems faced were mostly signing the first brands.

Need to understand how does it work with brands... the supply chain... technology yes, but how is inventory managed? Is the resale entirely online? How are returns managed?
Stephanie Crespin: A customer goes through Netaporter resale interface, organises pickup. Once the items are picked-up, they are sent to one of our operational hubs (we have five across the globe), the items are sorted, checked, processed, digitised. The items are then automatically put on sale on a network of marketplace (more than 30 worldwide). Once the item is sold on one of these marketplaces, it is shipped. If there is a return, the marketplace sends it back to our hub. It’s inspected to ensure it is in the same condition.

Which was the first brand that you onboarded? How many brands now?
Stephanie Crespin: Today we have about 20 brands. One of our first brand was COS.

What are the challenges still when it comes to resale and also buying of preloved luxury goods, specially fashion? 
Stephanie Crespin: Challenges include:

  1. Friction in the resale journey—vast majority of items can't be traced back to digital asset, so we lose all the data regarding the product info, the purchase info, in turn creating operational complexities and issues of traceability.
  2. Lack of operational scalable infrastructure to process and put back on sale the tremendous amount of accumulated fashion.
  3. The existing model leading to oversupply and competition of discounted end of stock making secondhand less attractive.
  4. "Searchability" of preloved—buyer experience is painful and lengthy to find desired items.

Take us back to how the idea was conceived, implemented. 
Stephanie Crespin: My first company was a secondhand marketplace. It didn't make sense to me that firsthand and secondhand were working in silos, that a same customer would buy and resell an item through two disconnected experiences (one with the brand and another with a secondhand marketplace). It appeared evident that the brand needed to be involved and that the customer journey be integrated from the moment a customer makes a purchase to the moment he resells.

Reflaunt empowers brands to regain control of their secondhand market, contributing to a significant reduction in textile waste destined for landfills.
Reflaunt empowers brands to regain control of their secondhand market, contributing to a significant reduction in textile waste destined for landfills. Tamara Bellis / Unsplash

Tell us about the fundings received and how did they help you grow your business? 
Stephanie Crespin: We raised a $12 million Series A two years ago. This was necessary to build our cutting-edge technology, helped us expand operations worldwide, equipping warehouses across the globe with our software, integrating more retailers and marketplaces in our network.

More and more such platforms are coming up and so obviously there are takers. What is your USP and what's the strategy to deal with competition? 
Stephanie Crespin: Two USPs: 

  1. Thanks to the operational infrastructure built over years to process single skus, we have a decentralised model where we equip players like DHL or the Chalhoub group. We are thus the only player to have global coverage.
  2. We maximise the liquidity of secondhand products by selling not only with the brand (if they wish to) but also on the biggest network of marketplaces and retailers including Saks, Yoox, Rebelle, Ebay, Level Shoes, Vinted across the globe.

How do luxury brands react to this business model? Any experience/s that you would like to share? 
Stephanie Crespin: They love the fact that they can offer the resale service to their own customers without having to resale the products themselves (as sold on our network); they value the fact that we do all the heavy lifting for them, from the collection of items to the digitisation and resale. We have achieved great results when it comes to loyalty and repeat of their customers, increasing 3.5X the LTV or lifetime value of customers for our biggest clients.

How is the “operational partnership” with DHL Supply Chain, a global leader in contract logistics, expected to “reshape the dynamics of fashion resale”?
Stephanie Crespin: Following a successful one-year pilot, DHL Supply Chain and Reflaunt have combined their capabilities to unveil a scalable platform redefining how brands power their resale operations: Reflaunt brings their expertise on fashion resale while DHL Supply Chain brings their robust logistic backbone to the operations. The biggest hurdle in resale is the ability to unlock substantial scale globally due to inconsistent infrastructure and high cost of acquisition/digitisation of inventory. That is what this alliance aims to change bringing together scalability, infrastructure, and cost management.

For years, first and second hands have been in separate corners. You buy an item from a brand, then sell it in a completely different experience. It's been a headache for users and brands alike. Reflaunt's been shaking things up, by tearing down the walls between first and second hand, and e-commerce and re-commerce. Our cooperation with DHL opens the door to a seamless circular supply chain. Imagine one place handling first hand fulfilment, returns, resale management, and other end of life solutions such as recycling. That's the game-changing expertise Reflaunt brings to supply chain operators, and teaming up with DHL is a real win.

Stephanie Crespin
Stephanie Crespin
Founder & CEO
Reflaunt.com

The value of luxury has changed dramatically; we went from a world where it was all about exclusivity, heritage, traditions to a world where luxury has shifted towards inclusivity, sustainability, innovations. Secondhand will further shape the connotation of luxury.

Richa Bansal

RICHA BANSAL has more than 30 years of media industry experience, of which the last 20 years have been with leading fashion magazines in both B2B and B2C domains. Her areas of interest are traditional textiles and fabrics, retail operations, case studies, branding stories, and interview-driven features.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 4 March 2024
  • Last modified: 4 March 2024