texfash.com: What in your estimate is the size of the luxury fashion resale market? How do you see it growing further?
Stephanie Crespin: According to different sources out there, one of them Coresight Research, March 2023–27's resale market is valued at $350 billion and there are $2 trillion worth of clothes sitting idle in people's closets. It will continue to grow exponentially as brands/retailers get involved and resale becomes part of any ecommerce experience. Secondhand will become as big as firsthand.
What triggered the growth, considering that secondhand luxury was almost a touch-me-not world? What consumer insights, gained from your business, do you think is leading this growth?
Stephanie Crespin: The luxury industry is not immune to the urgency for a more sustainable industry—brands have been pressured by consumers and now increasing regulations (EPR, etc) are forcing brands to take ownership/accountability and demonstrating change. The luxury industry's values have shifted—they're about innovation, sustainability and inclusion. What's luxurious about owning a bag or clothing when you know it's damaging or bringing filth on our planet?
COVID-19 accelerated brand's awareness of circularity/resale as: (a) resale was achieving double digit growth while they were in decline; (b) urgency to rethink their model and dependencies with offline (resale is online); and (c) disrupted and changing consumer habits and values.
You just said that secondhand will become as big as firsthand. How do you think the connotations of luxury will change?
Stephanie Crespin: The value of luxury has changed dramatically; we went from a world where it was all about exclusivity, heritage, traditions to a world where luxury has shifted towards inclusivity, sustainability, innovations. Secondhand will further shape the connotation of luxury.
- Brands with timeless, durable pieces: Those that can pass the test of time, retain its quality and be passed on from hand to hand in the secondhand market will win disproportionally.
- Unique pieces with vintage appeal: Consumers may seek one-of-a-kind pieces that have a story or vintage items with character, challenging the traditional notion of luxury tied to brand new items.
- Affordability: As it becomes a key factor, luxury may be less about exclusivity and more about personal style and individual expression. However, I believe brands will always come up with more exclusive lines, pieces and product segments.
- Shift from ownership to usage: As secondhand and rental grows, its more about the experience of using and enjoying items rather than possessing brand new ones.