Supply Chains Account for 95% of All Emissions by Swedish Fashion Brands

Data from 42 Swedish brands reveals that an overwhelming 95% of their greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions are produced in their global supply chains, according to the Swedish Textile Initiative for Climate Action (STICA). The report is being described as a very important step in terms of understanding what to focus on in the coming years—and also in the name of transparency.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Five companies stand out with significantly higher per-unit emissions—19 kg CO2e or higher.
  • In many instances, H&M was excluded from the overall analysis as the volume of H&M’s emissions mean they skew the results for all companies.
  • For most member companies, the majority of emissions come from the production of sold products.
Broadly, companies producing low-priced products can have relatively low emissions per unit sold, but when one looks at per-revenue figures, the reverse is true.
Production Paradox Broadly, companies producing low-priced products can have relatively low emissions per unit sold, but when one looks at per-revenue figures, the reverse is true. H&M Group

The total emissions per product sold by Swedish fashion brands are 7.5–10 kg CO2e, while the average company has emissions of about 25 tonnes CO2e per million SEK revenue. And—hold your breath—an overwhelming 95% of their greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions are produced in their global supply chains (Scope 3). That's production and fuel/energy related activities.

The findings are from a landmark report 2022 Progress Report: Greenhouse Gas Emissions Reported For Year 2020, published earlier this week by the Swedish Textile Initiative for Climate Action (STICA) The report—a treasure trove of information— focuses on Scope 1, 2 and 3 emissions. In all, data from 42 member companies were analysed for the report.

According to the report, five companies stand out with significantly higher per-unit emissions—19 kg CO2e or higher—more than five times higher than the lowest group of seven companies that are below 3.5 kg CO2e. The reason for some of the differences may be because of the varying types of products sold—from outdoor apparel and shoes to baby clothes, lingerie, and socks.

The report marked four companies with significantly higher emissions—60 tonnes per million SEK and more—and eight companies at 15 tonnes per million SEK and less. Here too, what needed to be kept in mind were the different types of products and their economic value in relation to the material and production emissions. But broadly, companies producing low-priced products can have relatively low emissions per unit sold, but when one looks at per-revenue figures, the reverse is true.

A number of facts have emerged from the data analysis:

  • In many instances, H&M was excluded from the overall analysis as the volume of H&M’s emissions mean they skew the results for all companies. “Where they are excluded, this is clearly indicated. H&M alone stands for about 91% of the total reported emissions from STICA members.”
  • For most member companies, the majority of emissions come from the production of sold products. Emissions from the use-phase and consumer transport were not included. “On an aggregated level, Scope 1 and 2 emissions only represent about 5% of the total emissions by STICA members. The remaining 95% covered by Scope 3 is, in turn, dominated by emissions from production.”

The catch: the aggregate hides the internal variations between the members, and this can vary significantly in certain cases.

“Most companies’ Scope 1 emissions represent 0.5-2% of company emissions, and for Scope 2 about 2-8%. But for a few companies this is significantly higher: 40% for Scope 1 and 10% for Scope 2. This is primarily due to different business models (rental and laundry) and direct ownership of manufacturing sites. For Scope 3, the emissions for most companies represent 95% or more of emissions, but there are also a few outliers here as well whose emissions represent between 40% to 80% of their total Scope 3 emissions. In summary, most companies within STICA follow the average, but there are a few outliers that differ from the bulk of the members,” the report said.

Under Scope 3, transportation and distribution accounted for 1% of total emissions and production was 7%. Fuel and energy-related activities (under Scope 3) make up a whopping 87% of all emissions. It is clear where most work needs to be done.

The Paris Goals

The Paris Agreement was adopted by 196 countries at COP 21 in Paris, in 2015. These countries agreed to limit global warming to well below 20C, preferably to 1.50C, compared to pre-industrial levels. In 2018, the IPCC stated in its special report Global Warming Of 1.50C that a global temperature rise of more than 1.50C will likely result in severe consequences for people and the planet.

Industry's Role

The apparel and textile industries are responsible for a significant amount of greenhouse gas emissions. While data in the sector needs to be improved, recent studies estimate that the apparel industry could account for approximately 27% of total global emissions. Given the anticipated growth of the industry in emerging markets and our need to halve emissions by 2030, it is crucial that the textile industry do its part and more.

Transportation and distribution accounted for 1% of total emissions and production was 7%. Fuel and energy-related activities (under Scope 3) make up a whopping 87% of all emissions. It is clear where most work needs to be done.
Out of Scope Transportation and distribution accounted for 1% of total emissions and production was 7%. Fuel and energy-related activities (under Scope 3) make up a whopping 87% of all emissions. It is clear where most work needs to be done. Mika Baumeister / Unsplash

Overall, the going seems not all that bad:

  • Almost all STICA members have set Scope 1 and 2 targets in line with the 1.5°C pathway. Some of those who have not are in the process of updating targets or setting science-based targets.
  • Out of the 42 STICA members that have set targets in scope 1 and 2, 11 have used the current reporting period (2020) or later as a base year, and there is thus no basis for evaluating how they are progressing versus targets.
  • Of the remaining 31 companies, 18 are progressing according to the target and have decreased their emissions by at least as much as they set out to do annually in their targets, four of which have already fulfilled their target in advance of their plans.
  • The remaining 13 companies are progressing to a varying degree, but not as fast as required by the set targets. Three of the companies have instead increased their Scope 1 and 2 emissions.

Interesting facts that emerged:

  • Company size: H&M was by far the biggest of the companies, with an annual revenue of 18,031 MSEK (million SEK), Varner was second with 9,555 MSEK and Stadium third with 6,947 MSEK.
  • Scope 1&2 emissions in 2020 (tonnes CO2e): The top five were: H&M 72,580; Varner 22,315; Kappahl 12,962; Elis 11,929; Lindex 11,128.
  • Change in absolute emissions since base year (%): The top five were: Odd Molly -91%; Bergans -65%; Nelly NLY AB  -59%; House of Dagmar 56%; Eton -51%. Among those who registered a +ve growth were: Rudholm HK +160% and H&M +18%.
  • Total Scope 3 emissions 2020 (tonnes CO2e): The top six were: H&M 17,387,060; Varner 314,752; Ellos 207,060; Stadium 178,348; Kappahl 152,595; Lindex 116,053.
  • Change in absolute emissions in reported scope since base year (%): Only a handful of companies reported comparative numbers. The major ones were: Volvo Merchandise -45%; Fristads -43%; DB Journey -32%; Lindex -31%; Varner -16%; Kappahl -15%.
Sweden's Consumption

In Sweden, 80% of the climate impact from clothing consumption originates from fossil fuel energy used in the supply chain, Tier 1-4 plus transportation. Additional emissions are generated during customer transport to and from the store, and during use and care. For brands and retailers, only a small percentage of emissions are generated by their own operations.

Company Options

Companies participating in STICA have a number of options for reducing their emissions in their supply chains. These may include: 1) using materials more efficiently to minimise waste; 2) sourcing more sustainable materials; 3) investing in the development of the next generation of materials with better climate profiles; 4) sourcing from energy-efficient factories; 5) eliminating coal as an energy source in supply chains; and 6) sourcing from factories that use renewable energy.

 
 
  • Dated posted: 28 April 2022
  • Last modified: 28 April 2022