Second-Hand Clothes Should Be Considered Waste Only after They Have Served Their Second Life

You also quoted the Textile Exchange Materials Market Report of 2024 which talked about the low demand for recycled materials. This is a problem. If brands and manufacturers do not use recycled fibres, what is the use of recycling at all? Comments, please.
Julia Ettinger: Indeed, this is a critical issue and one that must be addressed urgently. Currently, most of the recycled fibres are being used for products like rags or insulation materials, which is a far cry from the goal of recycling into new garments. Right now, less than 1% of textile materials used to produce clothing are recycled into new clothing. Without a strong demand from fashion brands for recycled textile fibres, textile recyclers are at risk of going bankrupt. This could lead to even more textile waste being sent to landfills or incinerators, defeating the whole purpose of recycling in the first place.

Then there's the price gap as well. What are the reasons for the prices of second-hand textiles dropping? How much have the prices dropped? Could you give us an idea? Again, why have the costs of collection/sorting/recycling gone up? Is it because they are not able to operate at scale?
Julia Ettinger: For instance, data from the German Federal Statistical Office on the prices and the weight of all types of used textiles which have been exported from Germany to other countries around the world, shows that in 2021, Germany exported 7,624 tonnes of used textiles to Ghana, valued at €6.88 million. By 2023, that dropped to just 4,533 tonnes, valued at only €3.78 million—a significant decline. Unfortunately, this data does not differentiate between textiles for reuse and textile waste

As for the rising costs of collection, sorting, and recycling, it’s a combination of factors. The collection and sorting processes are labour and resource-intensive, and in the past few years, we’ve seen energy and labour costs soar due to inflation. Sorting and recycling have now become excessively expensive, yet the returns on these materials are shrinking. This imbalance makes it harder for recyclers to stay afloat.

If the recycling ecosystem in the EU is not working, then clearly the EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is riddled with loopholes. With laws and regulations already being rolled out or in the process of being so, is there any scope for course correction right now?
Julia Ettinger: The EU Textiles Strategy is just that—a strategy, not a fully formed legislative framework. The EU is still working to turn this into a solid regulatory framework. To close the gaps and avoid further damange, we need a series of legislative actions to be implemented urgently.

First and foremost, EU co-legislators must swiftly reach an agreement on the revised Waste Framework Directive and its obligations for Member States to set up EPR schemes for textiles. We need a shorter implementation period of EPR schemes to see a faster impact, and the European Commission must accelerate its work on the long-awaited secondary legislation that will establish ecodesign requirements for all new garments placed on the EU market. Mandating the use of textile-to-textile recycled content in new garments will drive demand for recycled materials and push forward sorting and recycling technologies.

But most importantly, EU policymakers need to revise their approach in light of the rise of the ultra-fast fashion. For example, we heard that the European Commission is looking at abolishing the current de minimis rules and thus imposing customs duties on low-value parcels from platforms like Temu, Shein and AliExpress (worth less than 150 euros). But we need to go further: higher taxes on all imports from those platforms, or even a ‘fast-fashion tax’, could help disincentivise consumers from buying cheap, low-quality garments, which are part of the problem.

The EuRIC statement talks about short-term financial incentives for EU companies. But how does that help? If anything, it will certainly help small companies survive for a few days. But if the recycling system does not work, then in the long run many companies would have to shut down anyway. Comments, please.
Julia Ettinger: We remain hopeful that with the implementation of EPR schemes in all EU Member States by 2027-28, the situation will change and that the textile waste management, reuse and recycling system in Europe will be more sustainably supported. Along with the textile ecodesign requirements that should also start being implemented as of 2027-28, this will certainly have a positive impact.

However, in the short term, the sector needs help. We urgently need an ambitious financial support package for enterprises in need to get through the next two to three years. Without that, many European textile reuse, and recycling business will shut down, and we will face an even worse crisis before the long-term regulations come into effect.

But let me backtrack a bit. Earlier this year (in April), the Textiles Recycling Association had issued a similar warning. Around the same time (in March), the Vereniging Herwinning Textiel too had warned of an impending collapse. Now, we have the warning from EuRIC and Municipal Waste Europe (AISBL). If things are so bad in Europe, one shudders to think what it would be like elsewhere. Last words, please.
Julia Ettinger: It’s hard to speculate beyond Europe, but from what we’re hearing, some international players are facing similar hurdles, while others are ramping up production. The problem is that it’s tough to compete when you’re facing unfair competition and lack the necessary support. Europe has high standards, but without adequate backing, how long can recyclers stay afloat?

For Europe, one thing is clear: without decisive action and policy adjustments, the future of textile recycling in Europe—and potentially beyond—could be in jeopardy. We urge governments and stakeholders at every level to prioritise investment in collection, sorting and recycling infrastructure, implement supportive policies. We need policies that reward circularity and support businesses, and awareness campaigns to move us closer to a sustainable, circular economy for textiles.