R&D, Investments Still Needed for Agri-waste Textiles to Take off in Big Way

Polybion creates Celium, a premium, high-performance biomaterial from fruit waste. A leather alternative available as fabric, albeit a lot more expensive, the company claims that Celium’s performance is almost equal to cowhide leather. Gabriela Irastorza Dragonné, Head of Communications & Culture at Polybion, tells texfash.com why investment, scaling and deployment are imperatives to help zero-carbon biomaterial companies to offer lower costs as time goes by.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • No biomaterial solution is effective if companies cannot scale it.
  • Celium is made of bacterial cellulose, which is a metabolic output of bacteria feeding off fruit waste.
  • One problem with anything new is that apparel manufacturers (or even end-consumers) are not willing to buy into an idea on the basis of claims or assertions, till something stands the test of time.
Polybion's biomanufacturing processes do not require custom-made machines and equipment—it can use existing machinery for other industrial and fermentation processes. Regarding the machinery for the stabilisation process, it can use the same equipment as traditional tanneries; it is only necessary to change the stabilisation and/or tanning formula to avoid the discharge of hazardous chemicals and focus on reusing water.
Machinery Talk Polybion's biomanufacturing processes do not require custom-made machines and equipment—it can use existing machinery for other industrial and fermentation processes. Regarding the machinery for the stabilisation process, it can use the same equipment as traditional tanneries; it is only necessary to change the stabilisation and/or tanning formula to avoid the discharge of hazardous chemicals and focus on reusing water. Polybion

In March this year, Polybion announced that its bacterial cellulose facility would be scaling up production. What is not widely known is the work that had gone into Celium prior to that. Could you tell us how the work started, and what all went into it?
When working in the first pilot space, a dear friend of the Gómez Ortigoza brothers, Pepe Armenta, shared a very interesting material he accidentally derived from a bacterial process. The brothers experimented with this material and were amazed by the outcome; it was like bad quality leather, but they knew they could turn it into a high-performance biomaterial since using bacteria instead of fungi seemed 'logical' to them.

It took the Gómez Ortigoza brothers almost a year to realise the real opportunity was in the bacterial alternative to leather instead of the mushroom material for packaging. When asked about their decision, they stated that when it comes to bacterial cellulose, "nobody had gone deep enough." Or, as Richard Feynman noted, "There's plenty of room at the bottom." Motivated by this promising biomaterial, its implications, and the global problems to be solved, the Gómez Ortigoza brothers entered greater competitions and won more national and international awards.

By this time, Polybion's Fungi Lab focused solely on working with bacterial cellulose and the name given to this biomaterial is Celium. Axel realised he could use the agro-industrial food waste produced locally to feed the bacteria, making it perfect for a circular economic model.

By 2019 the potential of the next-generation materials industry was becoming visible, and some key characters came on board: Ariel Gómez Ortigoza, advisor in business development; José Luis Hernández, advisor in production and industrial scaling; Eduardo Parra as a financial advisor; Manuel Aguilar as a genetic and scientific advisor. Their integration helped Polybion define a direction and contributed largely to the improvement of Celium.

In the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic, and motivated by Polybion's award in the Mass Challenge Acceleration Program, Mariana González contacted Alexis. Mariana González was part of the European food-tech-focused fund, Blue Horizon, and said she was very interested in investing in Polybion.

Polybion's team met Blue Horizon's Team. After long diligence, Polybion became a Spain-based company, successfully closed their first multi-million euro round, and became BHV's first investment in next-generation materials. Under the idea that no biomaterial solution is effective if companies cannot scale it, Polybion decided to focus the investment capital on two main goals: building the First Of A Kind Biomanufacturing Facility in Latin America (FOAK1) and gathering a world-class team.

A manufacturer can replace exactly 1.1 million sq ft of leather. Celium, from Polybion, is a leather alternative. It is available as fabric.
Leather Fabric A manufacturer can replace exactly 1.1 million sq ft of leather. Celium, from Polybion, is a leather alternative. It is available as fabric.
The Gómez Ortigoza brothers (L-Axel; R-Alexis) realised the real opportunity in the bacterial alternative to leather instead of the mushroom material for packaging. Asked about their decision, they stated that when it comes to bacterial cellulose, "nobody had gone deep enough."
Polybion

It's a carbon-neutral bio-manufacturing facility. Could you tell us about both the "carbon-neutral" and the "bio-manufacturing" bits? What can you tell us that other people around the world would like to emulate?
Carbon neutral means we are making no net release of carbon dioxide to the atmosphere, FOAK1, our biomanufacturing plant, uses photovoltaic solar energy to operate. Considering that our energy supply comes directly from the sun, our operation does not have a carbon footprint inherent to energy consumption. We are proud to run a zero-carbon operation towards energy consumption. Bio manufacturing means that living cells are manufacturing our product, not us directly.

We will release more information about the carbon-neutral when we publish our LCA this year.

You would be producing 1.1 million sq ft of Celium. For a buyer, what would this mean? Would it mean that a manufacturer can replace exactly 1.1 million sq ft of say cotton or polyester with your product? In what forms would Celium be available: fibres, yarn, fabric?
It means that a manufacturer can replace exactly 1.1 million sq ft of leather. Celium, our product, is a leather alternative. It is available as fabric.

Many manufacturers are often apprehensive about switching over to anything new, especially if it entails infrastructure investments (particularly new machines or anything allied). How do you respond to that?
Fortunately, our biomanufacturing processes do not require custom-made machines and equipment—we can use existing machinery for other industrial and fermentation processes.

Regarding the machinery for the stabilisation process, we can use the same equipment as traditional tanneries, it is only necessary to change the stabilisation and/or tanning formula to avoid the discharge of hazardous chemicals and focus on reusing water.

Celium comes from fruit waste. Do you think fruit waste or agri-waste in general have been grossly underutilised all these years? Why is it that agri-waste-based textiles have not taken off in a big way? How do you see this segment of the fashion industry developing in the next few years?
Yes, it’s been underutilised. Research, development and investment are still needed for agri-waste-based textiles to take off in a big way. Just note that our textile is made of bacterial cellulose, which is a metabolic output of bacteria feeding off fruit waste. It’s not a “mix” of fruit waste later processed, or a “mix” of fruit waste with additives.

One problem with anything new is that apparel manufacturers (or even end-consumers) are not willing to buy into an idea on the basis of claims or assertions, till something stands the test of time. So, how do you explain people about the performance of Celium to anyone?
Celium’s performance is equal /and or better in some aspects than PU and PVC leather. And is equal or almost equal to cowhide leather. We will publish our performance technical sheet later this year, along with our latest LCA.

Celium’s performance is equal /and or better in some aspects than PU and PVC leather. And is equal or almost equal to cowhide leather, claims Polybion and it will publish its performance technical sheet later this year, along with the latest LCA.
Celium Show Celium’s performance is equal /and or better in some aspects than PU and PVC leather. And is equal or almost equal to cowhide leather, claims Polybion and it will publish its performance technical sheet later this year, along with the latest LCA. Polybion

In most parts of the world, people might be convinced about performance, but at the end of the day consumers still buy garments after looking at the price tag. How expensive would, for example, a t-shirt made from Celium be? How long would it last?
We are a B2B company; so, we cannot calculate precisely how much a bag or a pair of sneakers made with Celium would cost. It would depend on the brand selling the final product. Today, Celium’s price point is at $30 per sq. ft. A small bag requires from 4–6 sq ft. So, it’s still an expensive fabric compared to cowhide and PU leather. We are very confident that investment, scaling and deployment will help us and other biomaterial companies to offer lower costs as time goes by.

Any new fibre can't take a quantum leap till big brands buy the idea. How's it working in Polybion's case? Can you share some details?
As I answered yesterday, our current brand collaborations are still confidential. We are working with global brands to enhance these brands’ ability to accelerate the development of bio-assembled products, increase sustainability, and accelerate the path toward the circular economy. When the time comes, we’ll have a joint collaboration announcement.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 22 September 2022
  • Last modified: 22 September 2022