Wireframe: Passport to Future

Looking at Europe: DPPs Have Manufacturing Countries Fumbling in the Dark

How are DPPs going to affect the trade process? Will countries that export textiles and/or apparel to the EU see a slowdown? Or perhaps, import too. What is it that they should do? Most important, how and where do they get started? Will we see teething problems, or will those problems persist over time? There’s an urgent need for questions to be answered. texfash.com explores.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • It is important that non-EU companies follow the discussions and development around the DPP and ecodesign to be ready to comply once the requirements enter into force.
  • Implementation of DPPs is likely to become a crucial requirement for trade partners. Companies without DPPs may face obstacles in terms of compliance, market access, and consumer trust, potentially leading to delays or limitations in trade activities.
  • Immature legislations can actually hamper trade. If the legislation leaves insecurities for executing authorities and companies, it might create a slowdown or re-direction of goods because Europe becomes a complicated player.
Conducting thorough assessments of their supply chains, adopting relevant digital technologies, and investing in transparency and traceability solutions can be a good starting point for supplier countries to embrace DPPs effectively and meet the expectations of EU importers.
Meeting expectations Conducting thorough assessments of their supply chains, adopting relevant digital technologies, and investing in transparency and traceability solutions can be a good starting point for supplier countries to embrace DPPs effectively and meet the expectations of EU importers. Maksym Kaharlytskyi / Unsplash

This is the concluding article in the WireFrame series on digital product passports.

There is no industry so international in essence and globalised in spread as textiles & fashion. It should be a given that the aspect of trade should figure more in discussions about the digital product passports (DPPs) that are set to be ushered into the European Union (EU) over the next few years.

Intra-EU trade, or inter-State trade, is one aspect. How that will play out would depend on what shape of form the laws in the respective Member States take up. The other aspect is that of the EU as a trading bloc. In 2021, according to the last World Trade Statistical Review 2022 of the World Trade Organization (WTO), extra-EU exports of textiles were worth $25 billion and that of clothing $43 billion. The extra-EU imports of textiles were worth $37 billion, and that of clothing $97 billion.

The DPP issue is bound to figure in global trade, but the "how" bit is not clear. There seems to be virtually no documentation available, and Google search results throw up a blank. Just as the set of laws and legislations pertaining to sustainability in the US, UK and EU already in play or set to roll in are bound to have an impact on manufacturers in supplying nations, DPPs would matter too. The former, however, have been debated and even documented. But the latter leave much to be desired.

As things stand, it is still not clear how these would affect companies in countries that export textiles and/or apparel to the EU. Or perhaps, import too. What is it that they should do? Most important, how and where do they get started? Do they just visit the EU website and figure it all out?

Complicated issues need simple answers.

Among those trying to make things easier is Spain-headquartered startup Recovo. Its Co-Founder and CEO, Mónica Rodríguez, puts things in perspective: “For countries that export textiles and apparel to the EU, it is crucial to stay informed and proactive regarding the adoption of DPPs. These countries should closely monitor the evolving regulations and requirements set by the EU regarding DPPs and align their processes and practices accordingly.

“Collaborating with industry associations, technology partners, and regulatory bodies can provide valuable guidance and support in understanding and implementing DPPs. Additionally, conducting thorough assessments of their supply chains, adopting relevant digital technologies, and investing in transparency and traceability solutions can be a good starting point for these countries to embrace DPPs effectively and meet the expectations of EU importers.”

Companies from exporting countries are contacting Tailorlux GmbH - integrity solutions at the demand of their customers in Europe. The German company’s Managing Director Tobias Herzog, says: “I think they should constantly ask questions to brand/retail to discuss solutions which are matching the realities of production processes and procedures in these countries.”

Every company that sells products in the EU that are covered by ecodesign requirements will need to place a DPP on their products, regardless of where they are based. The same obligations apply for EU and non-EU companies.
In the box Every company that sells products in the EU that are covered by ecodesign requirements will need to place a DPP on their products, regardless of where they are based. The same obligations apply for EU and non-EU companies. Pat Whelen / Unsplash

Luca Boniolo, Senior Consultant with Ohana Public Affairs which specialises in sustainability strategies for the EU, points out: “Every company that sells products in the EU that are covered by ecodesign requirements will need to place a DPP on their products, regardless of where they are based. The same obligations apply for EU and non-EU companies. It is therefore important that non-EU companies follow the discussions and development around the DPP and ecodesign to be ready to comply once the requirements enter into force. At this stage, we recommend following the work of the CIRPASS consortium.”

CIRPASS (Collaborative Initiative for a Standards-based Digital Product Passport for Stakeholder-Specific Sharing of Product Data for a Circular Economy) is an 18-month project, and will respond to the European Commission’s call on creating a clear concept of the DPP (Digital Product Passport), defining a cross-sectoral product data model with demonstrated benefits for the circular economy as well as developing roadmaps for its deployment. The project got under way in October 2022.

Holly Berger, Marketing Director of Switzerland-based traceability platform Haelixa, emphasises on the need to take the traceability route. She says that using DPPs in Europe will create a literal passport for the product—meaning that companies will have proof of their value chain. The first step is understanding the supply chain—from source to finished product. After that, they need a tool mark and trace the fibre journey. Though the DPP only requires digital, we know that there can be gaps in the information chain, which allows for greater risk. Ideally, a company is using a physical traceability tool, like Haelixa’s DNA marker technology, to attach information to the fibre.

All good, but how are DPPs going to affect the trade process itself. Will trade see a slowdown? Can the issue of nitty-gritties create a chaotic situation till there is a shakeout? Will we see teething problems, or will those problems persist over time?

Herzog believes whether there is a slowdown or not will be in the hands of the lawmakers. “We see how immature legislations can actually hamper trade with the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act. If the legislation leaves insecurities for executing authorities and companies, it might create a slowdown or re-direction of goods because Europe becomes a complicated player.”

DPPs are expected to have a significant impact on trade, particularly in the fashion industry, according to Rodríguez. “While there might be initial adjustments and challenges during the transition phase, companies that do not have their DPPs in place may face potential slowdowns. The implementation of DPPs is likely to become a crucial requirement for trade partners. Companies without DPPs may face obstacles in terms of compliance, market access, and consumer trust, potentially leading to delays or limitations in trade activities.”

Boniolo puts in a word of caution: “Customs authorities will be tasked to check that products covered by ecodesign requirements do have a DPP. If companies don't have their DPPs in place, then they cannot export products to the EU. There might be trade disruption depending on the level of awareness of and readiness to comply with the law.”

Berger thinks, in theory at least, with DPP, the efficiency of trade should improve. “The question remains about how the DPP will be linked with import/export agencies for countries outside the EU—whether they will be automated or not. The use of DPP is a big conversation in the largest markets in the world, but there are too many questions to know when countries will be held accountable. The important message is that a conversation is happening broadly and the EU should help set precedence for other regions.”

And that’s where we will end: on the need for questions to be answered.

Quick takes from the Netherlands

Co-Founder of Dutch traceability platform tex.trace, Jolanda Kooi, on aspects related to DPPs.

  • Activities so far: I think that a lot of innovative solutions have been developed since the proposal. Some better than others.
  • Industry's lethargy: Indeed, the industry normally is pretty slow, but in this case, tech start-ups in the industry are helping brands and retailers to rise to the challenge and create DPPs.
  • DPPs and ESPR: We should get started in anticipation of clear guidelines. The outlines are clear and with these we can create initial DPPs, create integrations and learn from the outcomes so we can improve the DPP solutions.
  • Learnings so far, GS1 angle: An effective DPP will integrate many data sources. That is key in creating a relevant DPP which is more than just data, and can create an actual move towards a better fashion industry. GS1 can be the standard which links up with all the data sources and that is why we are in talks with them to make this a reality. The major learning so far, from my viewpoint, is that a relevant DPP is all about connecting multiple parties and harmonized data. So the task at hand is connecting all the involved parties and making sure that their data can be read by multiple users, such as for instance the POS in retails, consumer as well as recycler.
  • Climate goals: The real impact needs to come from the industry by firstly collecting verified data, and then using that data to reduce emissions and improve social standards.  
  • Manufacturing countries: My call to the exporting countries is: please be open about your supply chain, create long term relationships with your customers and thereby create a future-proof business model.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 

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  • Dated posted: 18 August 2023
  • Last modified: 18 August 2023