Finishing with Finesse: AI Poised to Revolutionise Denim Manufacturing

If denim is so much about finishing, Italian machinery major Tonello has remained a leader with its array— from washing to dyeing machines— and unique range of garment finishing technologies. Alice Tonello, the Marketing and R&D Director at the family-owned business, tells texfash.com the role that technology is set to play in denim manufacturing in the days ahead.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • In a denim manufacturing context, Industry 4.0 enables seamless coordination and synchronisation of various elements and processes.
  • AI is poised to revolutionise the manufacturing process in the denim industry, offering numerous advantages in terms of process improvement and efficiency.
  • Tonello’s new technologies prioritise making them retrofittable to ensure that their machines do not age but evolve.
Since 1981, Tonello SRL has been a reference point for the most important international laundries and dyeing factories, contributing to the “Made In Italy” success around the world.
Denim Italy Since 1981, Tonello SRL has been a reference point for the most important international laundries and dyeing factories, contributing to the “Made In Italy” success around the world. Tonello SRL

texfash.com: Textile machinery will have a big role to play in what shapes the fashion industry in the days to come, and finishing technologies will be crucial. As an industry leader, how does Tonello SRL look at the future? What goals have you set for yourself?
Alice Tonello: Textile machinery is already playing a key role in the fashion industry and at Tonello we have always been committed to reducing the water consumption, energy and CO2 impact of garment treatment. And, minimise the use of harmful chemicals as well. Our goals have always included creating an attractive-looking garment with minimal impact.

The question of finishing itself. How much importance are denim manufacturers attaching to finishing technologies now, than say 5–6 years ago? What are the end results that are most important to users of your technologies?
Alice Tonello: In recent years, the importance of finishing technology has notably grown, emerging as an important key tool for reducing environmental impact. This shift is further supported by advancements in fabric technology and the adoption of responsible chemistry. For users, this marks as a radical paradigm shift from traditional, labour-intensive methods, yet enables the creation of garments that retain an authentic aesthetic.

Denim finishing is an energy-intensive process. How are your machines making things better? Could you please elaborate? Time is another factor. How can one save on both time and energy from the Tonello range of products?
Alice Tonello: Time and energy consumption are crucial elements within the laundry, and saving and optimising them is critical. That is why, for several years now, we have been devising a new laundry vision of the present and the future, the so-called Laundry (R)Evolution, made simple, digital and automatic. 

It involves two technologies that centrally manage the entire finishing cycle with efficiency and flexibility, reducing waste and optimizing resources:

  • The Laser, an innovative, intelligent, and versatile laser range designed by designers for designers, offering comprehensive solutions for denim finishing;
  • The All-in-One System is the Tonello washing/dyeing machine par excellence, performing all washing/dyeing operations by bringing together 4 integrated responsible technologies in one machine: EGO, NoStone, UP, and Core. 

Finally, we use Metro, our software that processes true, real-time data to control all laundry consumption, optimise process times, and improve performance.

Looking at the same subject from the point of view of Industry 4.0. How does this work for a denim manufacturer? After all, many disparate elements and processes need to work in sync. How do you work with your clients on this?
Alice Tonello: In a denim manufacturing context, Industry 4.0 enables seamless coordination and synchronisation of various elements and processes.

Through our technologies and interconnected systems, we achieve greater efficiency, accuracy, and flexibility in production. For example, real-time monitoring of machines and processes allows for proactive maintenance, minimising downtime and optimising resource use.

What bearing, do you think, AI will have on the manufacturing process in the denim industry? This also means you yourself have to be on your toes to keep pace with AI itself, and not just your own products.
Alice Tonello: AI is poised to revolutionise the manufacturing process in the denim industry, offering numerous advantages in terms of process improvement and efficiency. Take, for instance, our B.O.P. (Be On Point) system, an automatic garment detection system integrated into our THE Laser range. This technology enables garments to be placed on the work table without requiring precise positioning from the operator.

Even if garments are placed on the table in varying positions, angles, or heights, the B.O.P. system accurately identifies and reconstructs their contours, shapes, and volumes. This ensures that designs are consistently placed exactly as specified by the operator during the initial design phase, leading to precise and repeatable application.

Moreover, AI holds promise for enhancing garment tracking within laundry operations, further optimising processes and ensuring seamless workflow management. 

Textile machinery is also a matter of investment. No one will buy a product that becomes obsolete very soon. How do you ensure that your products remain in tune with the times, and what kind of upgrades do you offer to clients?
Alice Tonello: We have machines that have been operational for over 30 years. Additionally, when we develop new technologies, we prioritise making them retrofittable to ensure that our machines do not age but evolve. 

Two standout examples are UP, a system applicable to all Tonello washing and dyeing machines, which reduces water usage by 53% compared to traditional systems, achieving a liquor ratio of 1:2/1:3. Another is DyeMate, our newly patented system for indigo garment dyeing, compatible with Tonello dyeing machines. DyeMate employs a process conducted in a nitrogen atmosphere, without oxygen, with controlled reduction and oxidation. This innovative system enables sulfur and VAT dyeing using the same technology.

Alice Tonello
Alice Tonello
Marketing and R&D Director
Tonello

AI is poised to revolutionise the manufacturing process in the denim industry, offering numerous advantages in terms of process improvement and efficiency. Moreover, AI holds promise for enhancing garment tracking within laundry operations, further optimising processes and ensuring seamless workflow management. 

Thanks to its cutting-edge machines and its one-of-a-kind service, Tonello acts side by side with its customers creating a link between the stylists and the companies working, dyeing and finishing the garments.
Cutting Edge Thanks to its cutting-edge machines and its one-of-a-kind service, Tonello acts side by side with its customers creating a link between the stylists and the companies working, dyeing and finishing the garments. Tonello

What new products have you showcased at Kingpins? Please feel free to elaborate.
Alice Tonello: At the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam we presented new solutions that shape the present and future of garment finishing:

  • Indigo garment dyeing, the evolution continues: DyeMate, Tonello's latest patented signature innovation, is already revolutionising the traditional indigo garment dyeing process and is also suitable for VAT and sulfur dyes. At Kingpins, we especially presented a wide spectrum of new indigo shades, with truly surprising and unexpected hues and nuances
  • Beyond bleach, with OBleach: The dark side of OBleach, a new collection of garments that goes even beyond the boundaries of our patented OBleach process and offers incredibly authentic effects on black jeans and fabrics, with results never before seen.
  • Ripper Mode, the breakages that respect the fabric: THE Laser continues to amaze with its ever-changing possibilities. At Kingpins, this time we presented the Ripper Mode, the technology that guarantees flawless laser breakages without compromising the integrity of the fabric weft. The "wow" effect is assured!

The collaborations, the research, the vision:

  • DEEPINDIGO: art "in garment" to redefine production processes: Tonello, Officina39 and Telariazul together presented a collection that takes indigo garment dyeing, craftsmanship, art and upcycling to unprecedented heights to create garments that are works of art.
  • MSP - Most Sustainable Product: for a responsible finishing: The new MSP collection developed together with Denim House and Kingpins Show, designed by Piero Turk and Serena Conti and processed in Tonello's R&D centre with responsible finishing technologies.
  • ONE DENIM: fighting waste, relentlessly: What are the infinite potentials of a single fabric? What and how many varieties of effects, designs, variations can be achieved? Kaltex fabrics, designed by Piero Turk and processed by Tonello with the latest finishing technologies provide a tangible demonstration of this.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 8 May 2024
  • Last modified: 8 May 2024