Recycle/Reuse 24 Billion Pairs of Footwear? A Can of Worms Not Touched by Brands or Retailers

Is sustainability being viewed in the footwear segment any differently than in apparel? What are the commonalities that you see? Where do major differences lie?
Enrico Cietta: There are actually more similarities than differences. First of all, materials are a critical factor for both sectors on the path toward a sustainable production. Sustainable materials are more and more used today, but new methods to process traditional materials are and will be a central point of both scientific research and company initiatives. A second common element is the focus of both sectors on product circularity in the sense of second-hand, the recycling of materials through processing, and upcycle with the use of the product (or its components) for a new use.

The most significant difference between the two sectors is the need for a traceability system in footwear due to the larger number of components in the product and consequently the number of suppliers. The leather/footwear supply chain is in fact more fragmented than the textile/clothing one. It must also be considered that leather is a derivative of meat production and therefore the connection between the two supply chains makes the application of sustainable processes even more complex.

Textile waste is much talked about, and is now being very well documented. The same does not seem to be true of footwear. Why? Do you have any data whatsoever about post-consumer footwear disposal?
William Wong: This is a very good question. Actually, shoes are even more complicated to reuse or recycle. The global consumption is about 24 billion pairs every year. Unfortunately, there are simply too many components (lot more than apparel) in every pair of shoes. It would be too hard to separate individual materials and components to be recycled. And it is every more difficult to reuse shoes due to hygiene issues.

Nowadays, almost all shoes, 24 billion pairs each year, end up in landfills, or ocean, or jungles. Only very few of them being reused or recycled. I think it’s a can of worms not to be touched by brands or retailers.

How is materials science going to impact the footwear sector? Do you see NextGen materials having any impact at all? Credibility lies in durability, and NextGen materials are too new-fangled to stand the test of time, except in simulated lab tests. Your comments.
Matteo Pasca: New technical constructions are very rarely born in the footwear industry, and only a few companies can afford to invest enough to revolutionise production processes that have been more or less the same for nearly 30 years.    

There has been technological innovation that has made machines more precise, more productive, safer, and more efficient, and there has been technological transfer of innovations introduced by the big brands in the athletic industry (think of knitting as an example).

This premise leads us to understand that the great innovation happening in footwear is about materials. When it comes to luxury, aesthetics often prevail, whereas when we look at sports or work footwear, the focus is on performance.

There are, however, cross-cutting issues that are emerging more and more strongly, and these are topics such as durability, recyclability, biodegradability, and everything else that will be a criterion for consumer choice in the future. Big brands are increasingly demanding of their suppliers and being aware of the key role that materials play in the construction of the finished product they are not willing to take risks or even compromise.

So welcome new materials but beware that they will not be used until they prove that they can be used efficiently in footwear manufacturing processes. There are research centres and laboratories that are perfectly capable of simulating the stresses to which materials are subjected both in manufacturing and in use, mechanical stresses and sudden changes in temperature.

How is IT/AI going to affect the footwear sector? Will the max impact be in the domain of footwear design?
Alberto Mattiello: Artificial Intelligence, especially in its generative forms, is on the cusp of completely redefining the footwear production landscape. Central to this seismic shift is the pivotal role of the design process, now supercharged by the creative capabilities of software platforms like Midjourney.

During the production phase, AI supports decarbonization and sustainability initiatives, optimising every aspect of the manufacturing cycle, from sourcing raw materials to logistics and delivery.  With the incorporation of AI into robots — AI embodiment — we will see innovative production techniques and automation that will reduce the predominantly manual nature of shoe manufacturing. This not only augments the production speed but also guarantees unparalleled quality supporting a growing labour shortage problem in this industry.

Moving beyond the factory floors, AI’s influence extends to marketing strategies and retail paradigms. But AI's impact doesn’t end there. It will also profoundly reshape marketing and retail. Picture new methods of digitally visualising footwear, opportunities for customisation, and the creation of "digital twins" of our feet, which will radically alter the way we purchase shoes.

These technologies promise to overhaul our conventional methods, making shoe selection, trial, and purchase a more personalised and immersive experience.