Moving to Sustainable Packaging Solutions is Everyone's Responsibility in Fashion Industry

There's fashion that generates waste, and then there's fashion's packaging that generates more. Even as the industry is being hauled over coals, the subject of packaging, though discussed, remains by the sidelines. Iva Jestratijevic, Assistant Professor and Co-Director of the Center for Consumer Insights and Innovation, University of North Texas, throws light on trends.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Repacking operations generate a significant waste stream at distribution centres, especially those of pure e-commerce players and those with high product return rates.
  • The fashion industry’s use of packaging is responsible for 26% of the total amount of plastic produced globally.
Future research should focus on upstream packaging innovation to explore possibilities of packaging repurposing and upcycling, as well as delivering products to consumers without the need to use single-use plastic packaging.
repackage packaging Future research should focus on upstream packaging innovation to explore possibilities of packaging repurposing and upcycling, as well as delivering products to consumers without the need to use single-use plastic packaging. Anh Tuan To / Unsplash

Between November 2020 to January 2021, Iva Jestratijevic and Urška Vrabič-Brodnjak from the University of Ljubljana in Slovenia studied 400 international fashion brands across five continents that advertise sustainable packaging solutions. The study, Sustainable and Innovative Packaging Solutions in the Fashion Industry: Global Report, was published in Sustainability journal in 2022.

The sustainability of each brand's packaging solution was evaluated on three factors: sustainability mission, the availability of packaging data, and the actual sustainability of the package. The researchers found that 57% of brands (at that point) had made evident progress; 34% had initiated the transition from conventional to improved packaging; the remaining had committed to rethink (1%) or to improve (8%) their packaging in the future.

Fashion has a waste problem. There's pre- and post-consumer waste on one hand, and packaging waste on the other. It has taken years for the industry to even acknowledge the former, leave alone do something about it. Do you think the fashion industry is in denial about the packaging waste it creates?
Iva Jestratijevic: The fact is that many fashion companies do not report and do not account for packaging waste in their sustainability reports. According to the research I have conducted, the fashion industry’s use of packaging is responsible for 26% of the total amount of plastic produced globally. Also, industry reports indicate that fashion packaging accounts for 40% of plastic waste that is generated annually on a global level. This waste comes from every process in the fashion industry.

For example, return rates can be anywhere around 30–50%, where garments will be inspected and, if still in good condition, repacked in new plastic packaging and the old packaging discarded. These repacking operations generate a significant waste stream at distribution centres, especially those of pure e-commerce players and those with high product return rates.

So, whose responsibility is it? Is it the responsibility of the retailer/ecomm seller, or is it that of the brand/manufacturer? Then, again, a fashion product itself comes with its own packaging even before it makes it to a store or a portal. Your comments, please.
Iva Jestratijevic: The fashion industry must begin preparing its supply chains and practices for the changing times by investing in environmentally sustainable packaging designs and manufacturing models. Every entity in the supply chain has a role to play and reducing packaging and switching to improved options is everyone's responsibility.

Then again, when talks of fashion's packaging issue, it's mostly about the end product. The debate disregards any kind of packaging used earlier in the chain: from raw materials to yarn to fabrics. How do you think the entire thing can be looked at holistically? Is it even feasible?
Iva Jestratijevic: As I said, moving to sustainable solutions represents everyone's responsibility. I don’t think that solutions are immediately feasible, and it might take a decade to find the optimal ones that are less detrimental for environment but still hold the same functional and protective values which is critical for transport oversees and distribution.

However, end of the pipe solutions for ecommerce and retail are readily available. So, we can tackle and prioritise that part. For example, Tipa compostable packaging solutions are ideal for e-retail.

Iva Jestratijevic and Urška Vrabič-Brodnjak present their findings on sustainable packaging trends and solutions.

And, what would be an ideal/best/feasible solution for the end consumer? Give it back to the delivery person, send it back somehow to the store/ecomm seller, or maybe even the brand or manufacturer? That would look like utter chaos. Comments?
Iva Jestratijevic: Reusable packaging is an excellent solution. The package you can return to be used again, for example. In the US, several companies offer returnable packaging solutions without charging customers. When buying in-store, incentivising customers to bring their own reusable bag is another solution. Customers are used to those procedures as the most eco-friendly grocery chains in the US do not offer grocery bags for free, but you need to pay for them or bring your own. I am not sure why fashion retailers are hesitant to try the same. Recently, I also saw packaging solutions (especially bag fillers) that are edible, and I love those. My children would be super excited to get shoes filled with free “nachos” that comes instead of plastic fillers.

Packaging is considerably about branding as well. There's the brand's own branding, as well as that of the retailer. Isn't that a big problem in itself?
Iva Jestratijevic: I agree packaging sometimes is a part of the brand. For me, that is fine, if we have a refillable packaging (many perfumes do have it, check this for example). In this way you keep the package as it has a purpose and also aesthetically appealing look. Another example is a package that can be repurposed. For example, a package made from textiles that can be used as a shoe bag. Again, it can contain a monogram and promote a brand long after product purchase.

Packaging is quite a mix in itself: from glue and tapes to staples and bubble wraps and what not. Do you think far too much has been going into packaging? In which way is packaging technology headed on this count?
Iva Jestratijevic: Technology is offering super-advanced solutions to support more sustainable packaging (natural adhesives for example; corn starch instead of glue) as well, and paper based tapes. We must make sure the entire package is recyclable or compostable and that should be a top priority.

Broadly, it seems to be a plastics and paper discussion. Could you give us an idea about alternative materials being developed?
Iva Jestratijevic: We have to be less dependent on fossil fuel usage in general. Therefore, my opinion is that we must minimise plastic usage whenever possible. In certain circumstances, we can rely on bioplastic solutions which are more efficient and eco-friendly than normal plastics and help contribute to the reduction of pollution.

It is also not that alternatives did not or do not exist (besides the NextGen materials). There's hemp, for instance. Do you think the petroleum-plastics industry has virtually destroyed alternatives-that-could-have-been?
Iva Jestratijevic: I strongly believe that we are now witnessing an increasing demand for natural and circular packaging solutions and I expect those solutions to flourish shortly.

Iva Jestratijevic
Iva Jestratijevic
Assistant Professor and Co-Director; Center for Consumer Insights and Innovation
University of North Texas

Moving to sustainable solutions represents everyone's responsibility. I don’t think that solutions are immediately feasible, and it might take a decade to find the optimal ones that are less detrimental for environment but still hold the same functional and protective values which is critical for transport oversees and distribution.

Subir Ghosh

SUBIR GHOSH is a Kolkata-based independent journalist-writer-researcher who writes about environment, corruption, crony capitalism, conflict, wildlife, and cinema. He is the author of two books, and has co-authored two more with others. He writes, edits, reports and designs. He is also a professionally trained and qualified photographer.

 
 
 
  • Dated posted: 4 June 2024
  • Last modified: 4 June 2024