Global Boiling: Intricate Connections Between Craft, Climate Change and Slow Fashion

The report reveals how craft can serve as a potent climate solution and outlines critical areas for intervention needed for a sustainable craft ecosystem, offering a strategic roadmap for diverse stakeholders.

• Impact of climate change on craft ecosystems: Climate change exerts multifaceted pressures on artisans, disrupting production cycles and supply chains, leading to a shift to synthetic alternatives, escalating costs, and detrimental effects on artisans well-being. From handloom weavers of Varanasi and Madhya Pradesh to silk production in Assam, potters of Rajasthan to toy makers in Channapatna—craft communities are facing impacts of climate change.
• Indigenous wisdom, local ecosystems, and climate sense: Indigenous communities, representing just 5% of the world’s population, protect 22% of the Earth’s surface and 80% of its biodiversity. Their deep understanding of local ecosystems offers an alternative to fast and extractive production systems.
• Indigenous materials and innovation: Revival of indigenous materials and material innovation with a positive climate impact are driving the evolution of slow fashion and craft. Several organisations and entrepreneurs are leading innovations in materials and fabrics.
• Role of technology: Integrating technology into the craft sector fosters transparency and traceability into products.
• Bridging the data gap: A pressing need exists to fill the data gap concerning the climate’s influence on craft and environmental implications in craft supply chains. The craft sector needs mechanisms to track, measure, and report on sustainability indicators.
• Climate investments: The report highlights the potential of crafts in climate adaptation and mitigation and advocates for increased financial support for nature based solutions.
• Role of artisans in global climate conversations: There should be more inclusive dialogues that welcome artisans into the heart of decision-making for building resilience in the ecosystem.
• Craft’s climate advantage: Craft production often has a lower environmental impact compared to fast production supply chains. This is attributed to their responsible use of natural materials, localised production cycles that reduce transportation, handcrafted processes consuming less energy, and a focus on regeneration and repurposing, among other eco-conscious practices.

Heritage materials, natural fibres and plant-based processes present an authentic, eco-friendly alternative to fast fashion’s environmental costs. The challenge lies in understanding their significance for climate action, protecting and reviving these techniques, improving their availability to the fashion ecosystem, and amplifying public awareness of their environmental benefits.

Production disruptions:

1. Disruption of production cycles: Certain crafts are dependent on specific seasonal cycles. For instance, the cultivation of raw materials like cotton or silk is closely tied to specific weather patterns. Unpredictable weather due to climate change can disrupt these cycles, causing delays or losses in production.
2. Impact on health: Due to the rise in temperatures, physically laborious work done by hand, or on looms becomes more challenging, impacting the health of the artisans. According to the McGovern Foundation report, droughts in urban areas can exacerbate water scarcity issues. The absence of access to safe drinking water can significantly hinder the productivity of artisans, as it increases the risks of heat exhaustion and dehydration.
3. Shift to synthetic materials: Natural resources have become more scarce or unpredictable and the pressure to produce products at reduced costs has increased. This has forced artisans to seek alternatives like synthetic or polymer-based materials that are less dependent on weather and climate conditions. However, this can negatively impact the uniqueness and quality of their products. Moreover, these materials are often non-biodegradable and contribute to environmental pollution.

Availability of raw materials:

1. Reduced access to raw materials: Climate change has made it more challenging for artisans to procure raw materials. This could be due to decreased biodiversity, altered growth cycles of plants, or increased scarcity of water. Many artisans rely on biodiversity for their materials— different types of wood, plant-based dyes, animal-derived materials, etc. Reduction in biodiversity can limit the availability of these resources.
2. Inconsistent quality of raw materials: Climate variations can affect the quality of raw materials. For instance, wool from sheep that have experienced a drought may be of lower quality, affecting the end product’s standard expected outcome.
3. Increased cost of materials: Reduced availability of raw materials due to climate change can lead to increased costs. Artisans often operate on thin profit margins, and the increases in the cost of materials can make their businesses less viable forcing them to shut it down.

Livelihood threat to artisans:

1. Disruption of agricultural income: Climate change has a direct impact on agriculture, especially in regions relying on rain-fed farming. Many artisans rely on agriculture as their primary source of income, supplementary income, or even as a direct food source for their families. Livestock can also suffer from decreased water and grazing land, reducing herd numbers and productivity.
2. Climate-driven displacement: As the repercussions of climate change intensify through extreme weather patterns and rising sea levels, communities face involuntary relocations. These shifts jeopardise artisans by distancing them from their customary materials, native communities, and traditional marketplaces. 

Craft serves as a powerful catalyst for sustainable fashion, redefining industry values with its emphasis on quality, durability, and ethical production methods. Craft aligns with circular economy principles, as handcrafted items are designed to endure and be cherished for generations.

Craft’s environmental advantage: The circular economy model by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation provides a lens through which the green potential of traditional crafts can be understood. The circular economy is essentially a design-focused strategy, rooted in three core principles: eliminating waste and pollution, circulating products and materials and regenerating nature. Here is how the world of crafts aligns with sustainable production and consumption and the principles of circular economy.

1. Eliminate waste and pollution: This cycle is not sustainable because our Earth’s resources are limited. In our prevailing economic model, we extract resources from the Earth to produce goods, which, after their use, end up as waste – a straightforward linear progression. However, in a circular economy, the approach shifts to prevent the creation of waste from the outset.
2. Circulate products and materials: The circular economy’s second tenet emphasises the continuous circulation of products and materials, maximising their value. It entails extending the life of materials, either by repurposing them as products or utilising them as components or basic resources. By doing so, waste is minimised, and the inherent worth of these products and materials is preserve.

• Design-led sustainability: Crafted items are often designed for longevity, which encourages consumers to use them over extended periods. This contrasts with fast fashion, where low-quality, short-lived trendy items result in frequent replacements and increased carbon emissions from the production of new garments.
• Crafts over fast production: While fast production frequently relies on synthetic materials, crafts predominantly utilise renewable sources. Crafts not only resist the throwaway culture but also predominantly use organic and biodegradable materials, reducing environmental harm and minimising carbon footprints.
• Localised production: Traditional craft practices often occur on a local scale, which cuts down the carbon emissions tied to long-distance transportation and supports resilient, sustainable communities. This contrasts with fast fashion, which depends on global supply chains and contributes significantly to carbon emissions.
• Waste reduction and upcycling: Crafts often focus on reusing and upcycling materials, converting what would be waste into new, beautiful products. This not only lowers the amount of waste destined for landfills but reduces the need for new raw materials and their associated environmental impacts. The techniques of leheriya and tie-and-dye from Rajasthan are deeply rooted in seasonal traditions, intricately linked to various festivals.

In this traditional craft, women would frequently repurpose their fabrics by having them re-dyed. The choice of natural dyes, known for their gradual fading over time, made this practice not only a necessity but also an authentic reflection of the culture and sustainability inherent in these crafts.

Regenerate nature: Moving from a linear to a circular economy shifts our approach from depleting resources to regeneration. Transitioning to a regenerative approach allows us to mimic the efficiency of natural systems, where nothing goes to waste.

1. Water conservation: Many craft practices emphasise water-efficient production methods, avoiding water-intensive processes like fabric dyeing commonly found in fast fashion, which can lead to significant water consumption and pollution. Plant-based dyes, derived from leaves, roots, and flowers, can replace chemical dyes, minimising water pollution and conserving resources.
2. Sustainable materials: Traditional crafts frequently prioritise the use of sustainable, eco-friendly materials, such as organic fibres, natural dyes, and recycled materials. This focus on sustainable materials greatly reduces the environmental impacts tied to resource extraction and production. Plant-based materials and natural fibres, such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton, and jute, can replace synthetic and resource-intensive materials, like polyester or acrylic.
3. Low energy consumption and carbon sequestration: Handmade crafts, being less energy-intensive than mechanised mass production, act as carbon mitigators. Moreover, certain crafts, especially those engaging with natural materials like wood, facilitate carbon sequestration, turning products into carbon reservoirs.

In a world dominated by the ethos of fast fashion, where speed and scale are prioritised, the craft industry confronts a series of dilemmas. The traditional craft production-to-consumption systems, celebrated for their deep ecological awareness, grapple with the challenge of reconciling economic and ecological considerations.

It is crucial to recalibrate how the metrics of success are defined culturally.

In addition to these challenges, the craft sector confronts a myriad of other dilemmas, such as issues related to fair wages and working conditions, cultural appropriation, and the erosion of traditional skills.

And, to navigate these complexities, there is an urgent need for robust systems that assess the current state of craft and its alignment with sustainability principles. Such systems are essential for fostering a just transition towards a sustainable fashion industry led by India’s rich tradition of craftsmanship.