There have been discrepancies between estimates reported by various sources and the data from associations and stakeholders in African countries, such as Ghana, Kenya, and Uganda. How does your report contribute to this discussion? Additionally, what factors do you think account for these variations in reported figures?
Jennifer Wang: We acknowledge that there is an ongoing debate regarding the percentage of textile waste in the second-hand clothing trade, with different studies reporting varying figures. While we cannot speak to the methodologies used in other studies, we can outline the rigorous approach we took to ensure accuracy and representation in our research.
Our methodology was developed in collaboration with academics, researchers, and industry experts, ensuring it was grounded in empirical evidence. With extensive experience in field implementation across the Global South and expertise in the waste management and recycling industry in East Africa, we designed our study with a strong emphasis on accuracy, local validation, and methodological rigour, ensuring a nuanced and reliable understanding of the second-hand clothing trade.
To minimise outliers and enhance the reliability of our findings, we prioritised a large, representative sample size and tested our survey instruments in isolated areas to adapt them to local market conditions and languages. To ensure comprehensive data alignment across the supply chain, we expanded our scope beyond the initial parameters, capturing the full context of supply chain dynamics. This approach allowed us to enhance the robustness of our findings by accounting for interdependencies across different stages of the supply chain.
To maintain consistency in data collection, our surveyors underwent rigorous training, including exams and field assessments, with senior researchers supervising adherence to protocols. In addition to collecting quantitative data, we conducted qualitative interviews to capture deeper insights from key stakeholders.
To clarify market dynamics and confirm the economic value of different subcategories, we employed a ‘peak tracing method’ in our analysis. This method visualises the distribution of selling prices across the second-hand clothing market, identifying price frequency peaks that reflect common selling prices influenced by local traders' pricing tendencies. Our analysis demonstrated that as quality declines from First to Second, Third, and finally to ronya and rags, the most frequently occurring selling price also decreases. This finding reinforces that ronya/fagi retain economic value and are actively traded.
For the definition of textile waste, we adopted the classification from the most recent Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) report, which defines textile waste as material designated for final disposal, not subject to any recycling or reuse measures. Based on our analysis of subcategory distribution, textile waste in both surveyed markets was observed to range between 1.1 and 1.3 percent, while rags accounted for 2.9 to 3.2 percent in Tanzania.
Central to this report, of course, is Owino Market. The market is well known and has been studied time and again. How does the current study add to the discourse? In short, what was the most striking finding, according to you?
Jennifer Wang: While Owino Market has been studied extensively, research on the economic flow of textiles within the market has been limited. Our studies add to the discourse by analysing how market-specific variables influence trade dynamics.
One of the key findings from socioeconomics is the equal opportunity nature of the second-hand business, where second-hand markets (Uganda and Tanzania) serve as the springboard for financial mobility; with business ownership progression observed is not hindered by education level and gender. That financial mobility is observed where aspiring retailers increase their income by 50 percent within 3-5 years of joining the second-hand clothing trade as a vendor.
Within the SHC trade in Tanzania, 99 percent of respondents said they believe in equal opportunities for men and women, with a similar share (98 percent) indicating that the trade financially benefits their family. The primary motivation for entering the SHC market is financial incentives (60.6 percent), while 21 percent entered due to lack of alternative employment opportunities.
