Jennifer Wang

In Guatemala’s crowded ropa cruda markets, women dominate the trade, running stalls that support households in an economy where informality exceeds 70%. Surveys reveal their ownership, participation and wages outpace national averages, forcing a reconsideration of how circular value is defined — and who benefits when discarded garments gain a second life.

Guatemala’s secondhand clothing industry is frequently portrayed abroad as little more than dumping. Field surveys show otherwise: almost nine in ten imports are reused, while waste remains limited. Unsorted ropa cruda powers markets, creates work, and sustains women traders. As new rules emerge, the fight is over who defines—and controls—circularity.

Uganda is the fifth largest importer of second-hand clothing in Africa, and the Owino Market in capital Kampala is key to the trade in the country. A recent report looked at Owino and its impact on business and livelihoods. Study author Jennifer Wang talks about the fine print in the report.