texfash.com: The paper rings an alarm. Did the eventual conclusions surprise you at all? Or, was it what you had expected all along, and that this was just a corroboration of your fears?
Theresa Mörsen: We didn’t collect the data on the environmental impact of the textile industry. So, this literature review simply summarises the issue. We were hence not really surprised about the outcome.
You talk about the misalignment between the WFD (Waste Framework Directive) proposal and the concept of waste hierarchy. What is going to be the possible fallout of this, if not fixed? Either this misalignment is fixed, or things will be left to happen. How do you plan to take up this issue?
Theresa Mörsen: The issue is that the European Union (EU) does not align with its own principles as established under the waste hierarchy. This leaves civil society in serious doubt about the ability of the EU to tackle environmental issues. To rectify this misalignment, we will raise public awareness about textile waste and show policymakers what is at stake in the hope that they will intervene before it's too late.
But the way things actually work out, "reduce" is antithetical to "recycle" (in some ways). Recycling doesn't cut down on consumption. It only ensures that certain materials remain in circulation. One can keep making money from circularity as long as the circle keeps getting progressively bigger. Circularity works for brands and manufacturers, but "reduce" doesn't. Your comments, please.
Theresa Mörsen: The reduction of production volumes will require some fundamental changes in the way fashion brands operate today. Our report on zero waste fashion businesses outlines what sustainable businesses could look like. Some brands are already taking the lead on this like the brands represented in the French association ‘En mode climat’. Like in all sectors of the economy, planetary boundaries will eventually set limits to growth, it is important that governments pave the way for the transition that works for everyone.