A PaperTale, and the Code of a Killer... App

During the visit, the smart tag start-up PaperTale demonstrated their blockchain enabled app and NFC tag embedded in garments – advancing the digitalisation of the transparent and responsible supply chain. (Showing real garments with real tags with real data on a real app!)

Associate Professor Jonas Larsson from the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås presented learnings on the Swedish model of collaboration between industry, academia and government. Jonas also posed the question of supply chain transparency reporting methodologies following his visit to the SAC conference in Singapore a few weeks earlier where his team presented a sensor package innovation for data collection.

Jonas is developing IoT sensors to capture supply chain data – thus eliminating the challenge of human error in data input. His team is now actively seeking industry-based participants, that is, small scale SMEs and manufacturers that are willing to pilot the sensors — particularly in the global south.

The MFITT team also facilitated workshops with Master’s students to tackle the challenges of digitalising supply chain transparency.  The students discussed their aversion to greenwashing – only to find that the industry is replacing this with so-called tech-washing – the practice of claiming to (or giving the impression of) having more advanced tech (such as blockchain), than is actually the case. The students felt that the PaperTale app is taking the “higher moral ground” in the transparency landscape and offering what appears to be a completely transparent solution.  When asked by the students how they could verify their claims, the tech founders explained the proof behind the information on the app.

For instance, in the case of fair pay to workers, the app’s blockchain enabled platform is connected to wage remittances in a data verification matrix. Second, the workers have their version of the app and can verify that they did in fact receive their pay on time and that it was above award, as claimed. Despite the students’ (justified) misgivings about privacy, the founders claim that the workers are enthusiastic about having a voice and being able to communicate information about their working conditions. Furthermore, the consumer can send the worker an upvote.  The app also gives the workers a choice to be anonymised – or to disclose their identity publicly. The students suggested that the morals and ethics underpinning the app should be communicated more effectively.

Solution to the ‘digital passport’

Finally, the group visited local manufacturers and retailers and found that firms are in the dark about forthcoming legislation – particularly the AGEC law (anti-waste for a circular economy). This law legislated in France, compels brands to publish information like the product's country of origin and fabric in a prescribed format – as a 'product information sheet on environmental qualities and characteristics'. This regulation will come into force in January 2023 and affects firms with turnovers over a certain threshold within the country of sale.

The European Commission wants fashion companies to disclose more information (European Commission, 2022). The European Green Deal (European Commission, 2019) explains that a digital product passport might give information about a product's origin, composition, repair and dismantling options, and end-of-life treatment. The creation of a Digital Product Passport for textiles is a chance to inform consumers and improve communication along value chains, including after purchase (Adisorn, Tholen, & Götz, 2021).