Could you share the highlights of the Allied Feather + Down Sustainability Report. What are its main findings?
We are working now to compile our first annual report and are processing all the information. The first thing we are able to confirm is just how low of an impact down as an insulation can have. But in looking closer at processing methods, it’s clear just how big of an impact the “little things” can have.
The low impact of raising of the birds doesn’t vary too much, but processing is where you can take a raw material as a by-product from another industry and add a significant footprint if not handled accordingly. We have always said that processing is what makes premium down, premium. And we have always known the qualitative difference of down processed with care and that of material which is pushed through a fast and cheap processing to keep costs low.
There is a qualitative difference between the down in a jacket that costs $60 and one that costs $300. But what stands out is also how such processing can not only affect the quality of the material, but the impact on the environment. We see it here in our processing where we can make small changes for greater impact reduction. That cheap material that so many fast fashion retailers and brands are seduced into can have permanent negative effects through the use of harsh chemicals and bleach, improper water reclamation and the resources needed to keep large scale driers at extreme temperatures to dry the down as fast as possible.
It’s now more obvious than ever that the phrase, “processing is what makes responsible down sustainable” rings true. Many brands and retailers that get lost in the animal welfare component and current welfare standards do not account at all for chemical management. You see a lot of these fast fashion products touting a certification like The Responsible Down Standard, which is great from a sourcing perspective, but often the material itself has been processed in ways detrimental to local waterways as well as the quality of the final down product
Your website states that Allied would come up with its first carbon neutral down insulation by Fall 2023. What steps are being taken in this direction?
We’ve started by looking at our processing since this is where the biggest impacts lie and we can most easily make changes to reduce that impact. We have identified our hot spots and developed plans to reduce impacts in those areas and transition completely to renewable energy wherever we can.
The second step is to look at technologies and treatments that can also help to reduce impact on the production. Our ExpeDRY product is a great example of that. While we are launching that product as a chemical-free alternative to hydrophobic treated down, we are also working to bring that fast-drying technology into production. By treating down with this FUZE-based particle treatment, we can potentially reduce production dry times by 50% and dry at lower temperatures. This not only reduces the amount of time the down is in the actual drier, but will require much less energy to bring the drier to temp.
What is the reduce-reuse formula that is being followed?
While I believe there can be values to offsets, I also feel they should only be used at the very last resort. We are first looking for ways to reduce our energy use by things such as the ExpeDRY treatment and at the same time shifting to 100% renewable energy. We are also developing recycling centres to recycle the down in post-consumer products that will also help reduce impacts caused by shipping. And as new green shipping corridors are being explored, we plan on taking full advantage of those when we can to again reduce impact from shipping.
Bird flu has been a recurring problem across the globe, more so where a lot of your down is sourced from — China. How does that impact your sourcing and operations?
We have developed a massive global supply chain that offers an unmatched level of diversification. And Allied also has a strategic reserve at all times. While most down does come from China, even in the worst cases, we are able to look to one of our other facilities and supply chains to source and process materials. Even in the most extreme cases throughout the years, our partner brands have never experienced a shortage of material. In most recent cases, we even end up selling to our competitors so they are able to retain accounts.
How does Allied ensure traceability across its supply chain? Are there no issues of labour and the like at the animal farms where you source from?
We have always been at the front of the animal welfare and traceability issues with down. In fact, Allied was started as an insulation company forming direct relationships with upstream supply chain stakeholders like the farmers themselves. This allowed a level of traceability from the beginning that was never seen before — and to this day remains quite unique. With these relationships, we can easily audit our supply to ensure they are meeting our demanding requirements for both animal welfare and chemical management. This approach led Allied to help build the Responsible Down Standard with The North Face before gifting it to Textile Exchange. We continue to move the needle through consumer engagement, transparency and education tools like our TrackMyDown.com where end users can view all the specs of the down inside their products along with sourcing information and other important facts about what makes the down inside an Allied-partner product so unique.
A family-run organisation, what has been the impact of COVID-19—from sourcing to orders to stocks?
We have been lucky to have great relationships with both our partner brands and our supply chain stakeholders. This is all because Allied is a tightknit family and the way we work with our partners. While it has been tough on everyone, we have been able to get through with our diversified production and supply chain points. When China was completely closed off, we could process needed material in our US, European or Vietnamese facilities. We even opened a new facility in Montreal in the midst of the pandemic to better serve our Canadian partners.
What has been the growth story at Allied? What is the target set for the next one year?
Allied has been in a state of growth since day one over 30 years ago. It’s an exciting time here as well look to the future of sustainable high performing insulation needs. And we continue to see significant growth in areas and industries that previously didn’t consider the use of down. High output sports like running and cycling now considering the wide range of warmth provided by down and the growing trend of traceability and sustainability for fashion brands positions us nicely for a new period of growth.
Tell us more about your latest collection.
The premise of the Allied collection is using our knowledge of down and relationship with some of the best fabric suppliers and manufacturers to create products we feel truly bridge the gap between technical and fashion — at home in both city and on-mountain.
