Future Lies in Hybrid Models Where High-Level LCAs Are Supplemented by Granular Data

Last month, Environmental Impact Measuring (EIM), a well-known platform for measuring the environmental impact of garment finishing, presented the first global report on the environmental impact of denim finishing. Begoña García, creator of the EIM platform and co-author of the report, talks about the complexities of environmental metrics.

Long Story, Cut Short
  • Craft and data are not at odds—they are complementary forces. Technology doesn’t erase creativity; it enables sustainable expression of it.
  • The tools are ready—it's about creating a shared accountability mindset. Adoption is growing, but the shift requires both incentives and education.
  • Brands must demand ZDHC-compliant, Screened Chemistry-rated products, and suppliers must innovate accordingly. We also need more data transparency in chemical impact to drive smarter formulation choices.
Environmental Impact Measuring (EIM) combines user input with strict benchmarking and automated calculations. To ensure data integrity, it uses a dual system: an accreditation programme for users and third-party validation by GoBlu International.
automated calculations Environmental Impact Measuring (EIM) combines user input with strict benchmarking and automated calculations. To ensure data integrity, it uses a dual system: an accreditation programme for users and third-party validation by GoBlu International. Environmental Impact Measuring

The report, Innovations and Challenges in Denim Finishing: 2024 Report, published by denim major Jeanologia was based on analyses by the EIM tool on accurate, objective data from over 115,000 denim finishing processes collected through the EIM platform, setting new benchmarks for sustainability in the industry.

It aims to guide the garment finishing industry towards greater environmental responsibility by identifying challenges, uncovering opportunities, tracking progress, and promoting transparency through a comprehensive examination of environmental metrics.

texfash: The EIM platform’s strength lies in its ability to turn thousands of denim finishing processes into measurable environmental insights. Yet, EIM also relies on data input by users themselves. How do you safeguard against discrepancies or bias in such self-reported data, especially when regulatory and brand decisions may hinge on these scores?
Begoña García: EIM combines user input with strict benchmarking and automated calculations. To ensure data integrity, we use a dual system: an accreditation programme for users and third-party validation by GoBlu International. This ensures that even self-reported data meets consistent, audited criteria, making it reliable for both regulatory and commercial use.

The EIM scoring system simplifies complex environmental metrics into an intuitive low-medium-high traffic light scale. As the EU’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology and similar frameworks gain regulatory traction, do you see EIM aligning more closely with such legally binding instruments? Or does EIM intentionally maintain a flexible, industry-first approach?
Begoña García: EIM is already aligned with many sustainability standards, and our methodology is compatible with regulatory goals like the EU's PEF. However, our priority has always been to serve the realities of the industry first—providing actionable, primary data. We welcome greater alignment with legal frameworks, but without losing the practicality and flexibility that have made EIM so widely adopted.

Despite EIM being open-source, technology-agnostic, and increasingly industry-validated, adoption isn’t yet universal. What, according to you, are the key reasons—technical, cultural, or psychological—that many laundries and brands continue to resist implementing such measurement tools?
Begoña García: Resistance stems from technical limitations in older facilities, fear of exposure to poor environmental performance, and in some cases, cultural reluctance to digitise artisanal processes. However, the tools are ready—it's about creating a shared accountability mindset. Adoption is growing, but the shift requires both incentives and education.

Denim finishing has always been a craft. Now, technology is reframing this space with laser precision and environmental accounting. How do you see traditional 'craft' and data-driven 'science' evolving in the coming decade? In what way do you think they will co-exist?
Begoña García: Craft and data are not at odds—they are complementary forces. Technology doesn’t erase creativity; it enables sustainable expression of it. Over the next decade, we’ll see data informing design choices while respecting the artistry of denim. EIM simply makes the invisible impacts visible, allowing better creative decisions.

The report identifies a host of high-impact innovations—ozone treatments, smart foam, synthetic abrasives—that offer dramatic environmental gains. Yet many of these remain on the margins. Which technologies do you believe are the most underleveraged today, and what’s preventing their scale-up?
Begoña García: Technologies like smart foam, ozone treatments, and synthetic abrasives offer significant environmental benefits, but they remain underutilised due to factors like lack of awareness, cost concerns, and resistance to change. In fact, 16% of processes still rely on pumice, highlighting that these alternatives are still on the fringes. What’s needed is stronger industry support, pilot programmes, and cross-brand collaboration to reduce the risks of early adoption.

Your data shows that denim finishing processes still carry a high chemical impact—often due to legacy practices like pumice stones or potassium permanganate. Beyond compliance, how can brands and chemical suppliers drive systemic reform in formulation, selection, and application?
Begoña García: Beyond compliance, the key lies in chemical reformulation and pre-selection at source. Brands must demand ZDHC-compliant, Screened Chemistry-rated products, and suppliers must innovate accordingly. We also need more data transparency in chemical impact to drive smarter formulation choices, and that’s exactly what EIM enables.

The report highlights how fabric selection can significantly influence downstream water, energy, and chemical use. Are we close to developing predictive, perhaps AI-driven, models for fabric behaviour during finishing? Could such tools become standard across the supply chain?
Begoña García: We're not quite there yet, but the foundations exist. Tools like Jeanologia’s Light Sensitive Test already offer predictive insights into how fabrics react to finishing. With the rise of AI, fabric-level predictive modelling is likely to emerge and become standard—streamlining process design and improving sustainability outcomes from the start.

Begoña García
Begoña García
Creator
Environmental Impact Measuring

LCAs are useful for broad narratives but lack the precision and facility-specific insight that EIM provides. The future lies in hybrid models, where high-level LCAs are supplemented by granular EIM data—creating a full-spectrum view of impact that satisfies both operational and regulatory needs.

Over the next decade, data will inform design choices while respecting the artistry of denim. EIM simply makes the invisible impacts visible, allowing better creative decisions.
invisible impacts visible Over the next decade, data will inform design choices while respecting the artistry of denim. EIM simply makes the invisible impacts visible, allowing better creative decisions. Environmental Impact Measuring

You make a strong case for primary, facility-level data, instead of relying on generalised life cycle assessments. How can the industry balance the need for detailed, granular measurement tools like EIM with the commercial and logistical appeal of broad LCA data?
Begoña García: LCAs are useful for broad narratives but lack the precision and facility-specific insight that EIM provides. The future lies in hybrid models, where high-level LCAs are supplemented by granular EIM data—creating a full-spectrum view of impact that satisfies both operational and regulatory needs.

With mounting regulatory scrutiny on green claims—particularly from the EU—what safeguards does EIM have to ensure that its scores aren’t used out of context or manipulated in sustainability marketing? Is there a certification or usage framework in place to prevent greenwashing?
Begoña García: We take greenwashing seriously. EIM scores come with transparent calculation rules and are supported by external validation and user accreditation. We are developing a usage protocol and certification framework to guide responsible communication of EIM scores in marketing contexts—because credibility is everything.

“If competition got us into this mess, collaboration can get us out”—your report quotes this sentiment powerfully. But what does effective pre-competitive collaboration look like? What kinds of industry alliances or shared data models do you believe are most urgently needed?
Begoña García: Pre-competitive collaboration means shared data models, common scoring systems, and joint technology pilots. Industry-wide adoption of platforms like EIM can standardise impact language, while alliances like the EIM Working Group allow brands and laundries to innovate collectively—not competitively—on sustainability.

Denim finishing happens everywhere—from high-tech facilities in Europe to low-cost operations in South Asia. How adaptable is the EIM framework across such varied production contexts? Does one global benchmark risk ignoring local constraints, or can flexibility be built in without compromising integrity?
Begoña García: EIM is designed to be technology-agnostic and globally scalable—it works whether you're using Jeanologia tech or not. But we do recognise regional constraints. That’s why EIM allows for customisable thresholds based on garment type and usage context, offering both standardisation and local flexibility without compromising data integrity.

Critical Challenges
  • The report reveals that 63% of the analysed processes are already classified as low environmental impact, reflecting a positive shift toward more responsible practices.
  • It also highlights critical challenges, such as the high use of hazardous chemicals (24% of processes), particularly pumice stones and potassium permanganate—practices that urgently require safer and more sustainable alternatives due to their negative effects on both the environment and worker health.
Water Usage
  • The report shows that the current average water usage in denim finishing is 30 litres per garment—still above the recommended benchmark of 22.5 litres per garment.
  • Effective strategies for reducing water consumption include optimising rinsing processes, selecting fabrics that require less aggressive treatments, and implementing technologies such as ozone, e-flow, and smart foam systems.
 
 
  • Dated posted: 2 May 2025
  • Last modified: 2 May 2025